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Your voltage is near where mine would be. I'm limited to 45.5v because that's where my 36v controller maxes out (and that's the highest voltage junk-controller I've been able to scrounge).

If you ever slam it to your top speed on a test, let me know how fast you got it going and the numbers you recall.

I'm not worried about power, I've got enough power in the controller to hit highway speed, I'm worried about speed sag from just, not giving the motor a high enough voltage to make it go fast enough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I received the charger I ordered

It's a Yewi YU-600 ($200.00)
48V 10A
Top Charge preset to 49V

It's just a bit smaller than the Yewi UY-900 48V 15A charger that greentechautohybredspecialists has for sale ($300.00)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/223038081042

But, while doing research, I remember reading that it's best to use a battery charger where the amperage is ~20% of the battery packs AH (capacity rating)

For this ~50AH battery pack
...a 10% charge rate would be 5A (very slow or maintenance charge)
...a 20% charge rate would be 10A (slow charge)
…& a 30% charge rate would be 15A (faster charge)

So, I went with the Yewi UY-600
...to save a few bucks
…& for a slower "proper" charge rate (to hopefully help this battery pack last a long, long time)
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I did some more testin'
...she rolls out very, very smooth

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aNEltShaPIE

Then, I connected the new Yewi battery charger
...but, it didn't seem to be charging

According to the manual
...both red lights should be lit when charging
…& when the battery is fully charged, there should be (1) red light & (1) green light lit

When I was "charging" there was (1) red light & (1) green light lit

Hmmm
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 · (Edited)
I forgot to mention that I installed a female XLR port, into the box, next to the circuit breaker

I left the charger connected for about 30 min

After I disconnected it, the Amp/Volt meter still showed ~43V
…the balance monitor showed 21.5V in each 1/2 of the pack

I even double checked the voltage right at the battery packs terminals
...the multimeter also showed ~43V

While double checking & going over everything again, I noticed that the 200-240V box is marked on the charger & in the manual
...but, it has a 110V AC plug
...the 110V boxes should be marked


WTF
 

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Things I want to know:

1 - What's your top speed? I'm guessing it's not reg'd yet and you're just doing community trips?

2 - I'm curious about the voltage sag and amp draw when you're riding. I'd appreciate you maybe mounting the camera to the handlebars so I can watch the speedometer and the panel meters as you drive around a bit.

How long before the kid gets to ride it? :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Things I want to know:

1 - What's your top speed? I'm guessing it's not reg'd yet and you're just doing community trips?

2 - I'm curious about the voltage sag and amp draw when you're riding. I'd appreciate you maybe mounting the camera to the handlebars so I can watch the speedometer and the panel meters as you drive around a bit.

How long before the kid gets to ride it? :p

I have to get the battery pack charged back up before I can do any more testing

I too am interested in the specs
Top speed, amp draw, voltage sag etc.

Yup, she's all legal (see post #16)
...even got Historical plates for the 'ol gal

Ya, set up a camera to "record" the data
...I like that idea
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Yup, the geniuses @ the Yewi factory set this charger up for a 220V AC input
...but, installed a standard 110V AC input plug

Then, they sent me instructions on how to switch it over to 110V, myself
…"just add a jumper wire"

I say, "That's ridiculous, it's brand new"

So, I complain loudly
...& now a new/replacement is on the way

They also send more complete instructions, on how to switch this one to 110V, while I'm waiting

Wow!
...now, they say "a component needs to be removed & (2) jumper wires need to be added"

Kinda of a big difference
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 · (Edited)
Tired of waitin' & runnin' out of summer
What the hlle, I'm goin' in (hope I don't mess this up)

First, I removed (8) small Phillips head screws
…(4) on each end

Then, gently pulled the end covers loose (to see what we had to work with)

I assumed (wrong) that the circuit board would just slide right out

Nope, looking inside with a light, I see that there are things that are soldered to the circuit board
...& also "glued" to the inside of the aluminum box

Hmmm

Well, it looks like the "green thing" is right here at the edge of the circuit board
…& the (2) "jumper spots" (A) & (B) seem to be kinda accessible too

I think I can do it!


Step 1.)
I "sniped" the Lima bean out

OK, now we need (2) jumper wires
...the "factory" recommended (oddball) 17 AWG
(the next size bigger is usually better)

Step 2.)
So, I cut (2) ~ 1" pieces of orange 16 g. wire

Step 3.)
I tinned both of the ends of both jumper wires

Step 4.)
I used the soldering iron to melt a small blob of solder (to tin) each of the first "jumper wire" attachment spots (A) & (B)

Step 5.)
I held (1) end of a jumper wire to (1) of the solder blobs (B)
…& used the soldering iron to solder them together

Step 6.)
Then, I held the other end to the second solder blob (A)
…& soldered them together too

Lookin' good so far, hopefully this second one goes that smoothly

Step 7.)
I melted (2) more solder blobs
...where the Lima bean was mounted

Step 8.)
I gripped the second jumper with a clamp
…pressed (1) end of it to (1) of the solder blobs
…& then, used the soldering iron to solder them together

Step 9.)
I pressed the other end of the jumper to the second blob
…& soldered them together too

Boom!, I think we did it

Just gotta reinstall this yellow wire
…& put the ends back on
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Now to see if it works

Took 'er out to the bike, plugged the AC input plug into an extension cord & turned the switch on

The red & green lights lit up
…& No Magic Smoke

Before connecting it to the bike, I flipped the balance monitor on to get an initial voltage reading
...43V is showing on the Tri-Quad
…& 21.6V is showing on both of the balance monitors

Then, I plugged the DC output plug into the charge port on the bike
…& both red lights, on the charger, lit up

Next, lets see how long it takes
…& to what voltage the battery pack gets charged back up to
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Before charging, I recorded the voltage of the battery pack
Tri-Quad: 43V
Mulit-meter: 43V
Balance Monitor: 21.6V / 21.6V

Then, I connected the Yewi UY-600 charger @ 4:45pm
…& both red lights lit up
...but, the fan was not on

I didn't want to turn the circuit breaker on, while charging
...to get a reading from the Tri-Quad
...or keep messing with the MM
...so, I just took hourly voltage readings from the Balance Monitor

1 hour 5:45pm 22.8V / 22.8V 2 red lights & yes the fan is on
2 hours 6:45pm 23.8 V/ 23.8V 2 red lights & yes the fan is on
3 hours 7:45pm 24.3V / 24.3V 2 red lights & no the fan is off
4 hours 8:45pm 24.4V / 24.4V 2 red lights & no the fan is off
5 hours 9:45 pm 24.4V / 24.4V 1 red light & 1 green light & no fan

Then, I unhooked the charger & turned the circuit breaker on
...the Tri-Quad showed 49.7V

Hmmm, it should be topped off @ 49V
...but, who knows how accurate these Chinese meters are?

So, I waited an hour & took more readings (rested voltage)

~6 hours from when I started charging


~11:00 pm
Tri-Quad: 49.7V
Balance monitor: 24.4V / 24.4V

The next morning I took some more readings (overnight rested voltage)
16 hours ~9:00am

Tri-Quad: 49.8V
Balance monitor: 24.4V / 24.4V (48.8V total)
 

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Damn 500 amp? My controller maxes at 275. You'll definitely be quicker :p

I'm most interested in the current that's flowing when traveling at a steady speed. It's cool to see what you can peg it to when accelerating, but I'm curious what it takes to hold a given speed (and top speed).

I'm trying it guess whether my current controller and voltage will work (before I wire up 2000x 18650s) for highway speeds.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Damn 500 amp? My controller maxes at 275. You'll definitely be quicker :p

I'm most interested in the current that's flowing when traveling at a steady speed. It's cool to see what you can peg it to when accelerating, but I'm curious what it takes to hold a given speed (and top speed).

I'm trying it guess whether my current controller and voltage will work (before I wire up 2000x 18650s) for highway speeds.
I took a few more rides, to gather some more data.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V2ZaYSVmUN0&index=41&list=PLoL6eIYWPO_nZYYAumnkE7RowDoBCsuCh


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NR-z-JpxI6c&index=42&list=PLoL6eIYWPO_nZYYAumnkE7RowDoBCsuCh
 

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One thing I noticed is that the power draw is nowhere near as consistent as I imagined it would be. You're holding a steady speed and your power draw is anywhere between 20amps and 60amps.

For me this highlights that I do not want a digital ammeter. I want analog so at least I have some momentum to the dial to average it out. I like analog better anyways (it's visually indicative via actual motion, rather than just numerically indicative), but, I think I'll convert my tachometer to an ammeter behind the dash.

I can't tell if you were hovering at the speed limit or whether that was maxing out your motor for the voltage you were able to give it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
One thing I noticed is that the power draw is nowhere near as consistent as I imagined it would be. You're holding a steady speed and your power draw is anywhere between 20amps and 60amps.

For me this highlights that I do not want a digital ammeter. I want analog so at least I have some momentum to the dial to average it out. I like analog better anyways (it's visually indicative via actual motion, rather than just numerically indicative), but, I think I'll convert my tachometer to an ammeter behind the dash.

I can't tell if you were hovering at the speed limit or whether that was maxing out your motor for the voltage you were able to give it?
Most of the time, I was holding it at "full speed" which for this set up looks to be right @ 35MPH.

I believe the Amp fluxuations are due to pavement differences & bumps in the road & maybe even some wind resistance changes. (it was very windy that day)

I've always heard that the analog (needle & gauge) amp meters "bounce" too much for accurate use in a moving/motor vehicle
 

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I've always heard that the analog (needle & gauge) amp meters "bounce" too much for accurate use in a moving/motor vehicle
That's likely, if the particular meter is not intended for use in a vibrating environment; this is true of any moving-needle meter. For many years cars routinely had ammeters (to help the driver assess the charging system), and bouncing wasn't a problem any more than it is with the wide variety of other similar electrical meters in instrument panels, displaying various information but always fundamentally ammeters; presumably they were appropriately damped.
 

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That's likely, if the particular meter is not intended for use in a vibrating environment; this is true of any moving-needle meter.
I was going to say, fluid-filled gauges, but, you're right, dash-gauges are cheap and not fluid filled far as I know.

Most of the time, I was holding it at "full speed" which for this set up looks to be right @ 35MPH.
Well DRAT.

Your voltage is slightly higher than mine, and you still can't go faster.

It couldn't be that your current was limited, right? Because I'd seen it spike into the hundreds.

How do you feel about 35mph? Good enough or do you want faster?

Thanks again for documenting your build so well, it's helped me answer a lot of questions about how I should proceed. Also, it's just fun and interesting to see.
 

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I can't understand why the current reads zero for much of the ride. And it never goes negative. No regen? And is this battery current or motor current?
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 · (Edited)
I have to do more research but, it seems like it's not showing an amp draw unless your accelerating. No, I don't have regen on this controller.
The amp meter is showing battery current.


PS, Thanks Matt & Paul, for your support.
 
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