While I have charged with the onboard charger once or twice the majority of the time probably four or five times I charged with a top balancing charger and charged each cell independently to about 3.45v + or - .o5mv. I have rechecked the other five batteries and one is just dead the others when they are in use the BMS LED light goes out and alarms even when they have just been charged and show full capacity. After reading all your replies I am now wondering whether I will be chasing around one cell after another always finding the next weakest link in the pack. One thing that I did do was when a cell failed I replaced a blue cell SE with a gray cell CA three in total because I was told that it wouldn't hurt anything. I bought the new cells from CALB and at the time they said it wouldn't hurt anything now they tell me I shouldn't have done that. They don't make the blue SE cells anymore and at the time as I said they said it wouldn't hurt anything now they have a new sales person and she says differently so I don't know what to do now.
Good to know you're individually charging each cell. Next step is to do a load test on the whole pack. First step is to bulk charge the pack as usual until the bulk charger shuts off. Then use the individual charger on each cell until you reach your 3.45 volts. This will be the starting point= all cells fully charged.
To start the load test, purchase one 2000 watt, 120 volt water heater element at the hardware store. Connect two #14 wires to the element and to the positive and negative 144 volts AFTER the power connector. Place the water heater element in a 5-30 gallon PLASTIC bucket and fill with water. Leave the garden hose running slowly into the bucket, orherwise the water will boil and the element will burn open.
Turn on the ignition and wait until the first cell hits LV via the Mini BMS. Verify the voltage of that cell with your DVM. Note this voltage. Shut off the ignition and disconnect the copper inter-conects to this low cell and bypass the connections that used to go to this cell with a #14 wire with 5/16" ring lugs and a spare nut and bolt.
Note the AH of your EMeter/ JLD404 when the cell hits LV. Turn ignition back on and continue until the next cell hits LV and note the cell number and AH. Then bypass this second cell with the wire jumper and continue.
In a perfect world, ALL cells will provide 100 AH. But, in the real world, your cells will probably hit LV at different AH. It will take many hours to obtain the data and jumper out the cell connections, but after the test the data will show the capacity of each cell. You can then make a decision of which cells are bad and what to do about it.
Blue vs. Gray cells would replace blue cells with more blue cells, but since the blue cells were discontinued about 5 years ago, the isn't much choice but to use gray cells for replacement.
I have performed this load with both the blue cells in one of my conversions and the gray cells in the other conversion. The data will allow you to move on. Without the load test, you're pixxing into the wind.
Been there, done that since 1982 on EV conversions.