http://www.evamerica.com/evcomponentpackages.htmlHello, I was just wondering where you can buy an electric heater for an EV at? I've tried searching on Google and all I can find are space heaters or the type of heaters that you plug into the cigarette lighter.
Then you may want to contact EV-BLUEthanks! Took a look at it and the only thing I could find were the ceramic heaters, which probably wouldn't work too well in Ohio lol. but I never thought about a water heater connected to the heater core.
thanks! Took a look at it and the only thing I could find were the ceramic heaters, which probably wouldn't work too well in Ohio lol. but I never thought about a water heater connected to the heater core.
I think that was a good idea to add the DPDT P&B relay5) I wouldn't trust an ssr to turn a heater on/off, since it could fail shorted on. I use a DPDT P&B relay from KTA-ev. It is rated 120V/20A, so I am a bit over the spec, but it is working well so far. One with magnetic blowouts to reduce arcing of the contacts would be better, a contactor even better, especially at higher pack voltages. And of course fuse the leads before they enter the vehicle interior since they are at pack voltage and could deliver very high current before they burned up. The relay or contactor should be outside the vehicle cabin too, so there is no voltage in the cabin with the heater off.
My truck has vinyl and I intend to purchase carpet with sound deadening insulation. I must also replace all the weather stripping - I am interested in what type of insulation was used in the head liner??? Do you have a link?6) Eliminate all air leaks into the vehicle cabin, and insulate where you can. That will make a very big difference, reducing required heater power. If tight, and well insulated, you might get by with one 1500W heater. I did not do as I preach here, but another ev owner claims he did this and less than 1kW heats his truck cab in Montana. He insulated inside the doors, the floors, and head liner.
I tore my dash apart (removed A/C, etc...) as per the OEM manual, but then realized that if I simply cut the original cooling pipes (which snaked around the heater then through the firewall) then I could remove the heater core with almost no work at all. I used hi-temperature silicon to hold two ceramic elements in place in the original/gutted heater core. SSR relays require good heat-sinks to operate at rated conditions - either over-rate them (I used 40Amp Crydom units) or use good heat sinks... There are PWM temperature controllers (about $40) which can measure the temperature, then create PWM pulses to SSR relays to continuously adjust the heat required (ie they do not have to be on/off).4) It is generally considerably more difficult to mount a ceramic heater. I had to pull the dash and the heater out of the car. It was about an 8 hour job to pull them, mount the heater, re-install (more time to make the teflon holder for the two heaters - you need to ensure air can only go through the heaters, not around them, and make sure the material you use can take the temperature of the heater element touching it - test it before you mount it in the car. I can tell you polycarbonate melts).
http://electric-vehicle-discussion-...uch-wattage-for-a-heater-tp453598p453612.htmlI am interested in what type of insulation was used in the head liner??? Do you have a link?