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From the way the guy said it, too high gpm results in the rack being over boosted and very little steering input resulting in a lot of steering "sneeze and you fly off the highway", etc. This is from experimenting with foxbody racks
So level of assistance (or boost gain), rather than rack motion speed. (y) That makes sense, hydraulically.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 · (Edited)
The hydratech guy very strongly recommend that the reservoir have a pressure release valve for exactly that reason

Just got off the phone with the guys who make my steering rack (flaming river) and they said their rack operates between 700 and 1100 psi ideally, and their pumps deliver 2.5gpm flow rate so that's probably a good middle ground to shoot for.

He recommended adding a pressure reducer on the rack side of the hydroboost, since according to him hydroboost usually requires higher psi than their racks can take

Really wish I could get solid numbers on the psi/gpm the Volvo pump is rated at

The pressure reducer being on the rack side makes sense when looking at this diagram
Power Steering Gear Plumbing Diagram With & Without Hydro Boost
Font Line Parallel Engineering Circle


This also shows two separate returns to the reservoir so I think that's what I'll do, probably plumb the hydroboost return to the upper remote reservoir to boot so there's ZERO chance of back pressure
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Yeah but how to measure pressure without blowing things apart or burning the pump out

If I make a hardline loop with a gauge on it, wont that pressure burn the pump out almost immediately?

If I run it through my rack, it runs the risk of blowing seals from overpressure

And for flow, are you talking about literally just emptying one bucket of ps fluid into another with a stop watch? Won't the outflow be at insane pressure and kinda dangerous?

I was thinking of getting something like this to regulate psi from jump, some folks have used these for famously low PSI tolerant foxbody racks, but it isn't entirely clear if this is a flow restrictor or pressure restrictor

 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Why are you using a Foxbody rack on a Corvette, anyway?
Im not sure if the flaming river steering racks are the same design as the foxbody, but the foxbody racks are known for needing very little pressure/flow rate to operate, and anything beyond that makes them heavily overboosted

Pwm on the pump from jump is an interesting idea though, I believe they have a native pwm signal? Or maybe that was a different pump

With a pwm I could install the pump inline, start it at VERY slow speed with a pressure gauge in there somewhere
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Part of this plan is building a heavily sound reducing enclosure around the pump to cut the sound down by like 20 decibels

Hence why I'm looking at an intercooler for the pump
 

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Some info I DO have on the volvo/mazda pumps:

0-6375 RPM
Module temp limit is 110*C
Motor temp limit is 175*C
1200 PSI internal bypass

TRW type 1 Astra pumps do have around 1700psi limit, but they are not controllable. instead they use a valve on the high pressure side to raise and lower pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 · (Edited)
A 1200psi bypass is encouraging, meaning I can probably use it with my current rack as a drop in and not blow it up immediately (probably), I'd still like to throw a flow rate meter and pressure meter on their for validation though

So next up is examination of the current plumbing, finding a good spot for the enclosed pump, and looking for replacement high pressure lines compatible with the existing fitting

Also need to find the model name of my current pump to see what it's rated psi/GPH is so I can match that later

Edit; actually, while a pressure gauge is easy and cheap, measuring flow is more expensive it seems. I'm lieu of that I can get one of many many used power steering analyzer kits for ~$100

 

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A 1200psi bypass is encouraging, meaning I can probably use it with my current rack as a drop in and not blow it up immediately (probably), I'd still like to throw a flow rate meter and pressure meter on their for validation though

So next up is examination of the current plumbing, finding a good spot for the enclosed pump, and looking for replacement high pressure lines compatible with the existing fitting

Also need to find the model name of my current pump to see what it's rated psi/GPH is so I can match that later

Edit; actually, while a pressure gauge is easy and cheap, measuring flow is more expensive it seems. I'm lieu of that I can get one of many many used power steering analyzer kits for ~$100

Good news. I now support Dodge/Chrysler 12-20 EHPAS pumps. They are 1700psi @2.5 GPM.
Some more info on them: Support for a new, and most powerful EHPAS we’ve seen yet – NMStec
 
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