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Any thoughts, Ideas, input......
I have a 48 volt on/off switch so I see no need in a controller.
Hey Alex,

I say you should use a controller. First, an "on/off" switch? You need a contactor. You switch 48 volts of battery across that motor and you'll draw hundreds of amps. That will fry a switch. Also, across the line starting like that will pull wheelies and break things. Motor controllers have a current limit and ramp-up features which are there for a reason.

Next, is that golf car motor series or SepEx? If it is a series motor and you run without a controller, try to shift on the fly, when you disengage the motor it will self destruct.

Next, does the motor have a drive end bearing? Most golf car motors pilot on the axle bearing.

Have fun with it, but be careful.

major
 

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belts for blades and tranny have pedal/arm release features that will release tension allowing motor to spin and that will slowly engage/disengage drive and blade components preventing wheelie. I.C.E. was 5000 r.p.m. Electric is 4000. R.P.M. and it is a series wound.

I am thinking about an amperage limiter of some sort without purchase of a $300. controller
Hi Alex,

That's the problem. You cannot run the series motor at full voltage unloaded and then engage the load. The motor will overspeed and disassemble.

And what is an "amperage limiter"? A resistor?

Regards,

major
 

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Alex Everett

I'm just a few days behind you on the mower. I have the Club Car 48 volt motor. A couple of battery cores for the fit and need to follow up on 2 junk golf carts which hopefully one might have a Curtis controller on it. I'll post pics on my thread soon.
Hey Alex, EL and others,

I thought I had better mention something to you guys doing rider mower electric conversions. It is a neat way to start learning EVs. I did one about 15 yrs ago. BUT, these things can be dangerous. They can cause injury or worse. Realize that the electric motor, like a GC motor, will provide enough torque to overpower the friction brake. The one I did had a single disc on the axle. I had an old floor sweeper motor. Those golf cart motors will have 2 or 3 times the torque. No way could the little friction brake stop the motor from propelling the tractor.

Most controllers, like the Curtis, have an input for an interlock signal. Or as I call it, a permissive signal. This input needs to be used. When the signal is not present, the controller shuts off. You need to put a microswitch on the brake pedal. And on the seat. Otherwise someone can get hurt easily. If you drive under a tree branch which is too low and it pins you to the rear of the tractor your first reaction is to hit the brake. It will not stop you unless the motor is turned off. And then if you do get knocked off the tractor, a seat switch will stop it from mowing down your children.

Be safe.

major
 

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Before we get into batteries anf the other stuff, we need to know more about the train, approx. total max gross weight and what motor/controller/voltage you plan on using.
Hey Jim and Party,

We had an e-tractor we used to pull a train. It would be 4 cars, each weighing about 1200-1500 lbs. Yes, like a 3 ton train. Trailers on pneumatic tires. Tractor used a 2 or 3 HP PM motor from an old floor sweeper. Had a 36V, 400A Curtis. Six 12V, 50 Ahr batteries in series/parallel. Darn thing even went up hill. Had a 3 spd forward w rev axle. Was belt drive. Later on changed to a chain drive. Was an old ElecTrak E8 (maybe E10).

I'd suggest you find a tractor to use without hydraulic drive. Just belt drive the motor to the transaxle. 36 volts should be fine. Longer run time needed; look at bigger batteries like for floor sweepers. 400A Curtis or maybe the 225A. Charger should not cost much. Golf cart charger or Minn Kota. Not hard to do or expensive.

Regards,

major
 
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