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Forgot to mention, The electric motor fits the opening that was made for the ICE and it is a perfec fit. Drill the holes, mount the plate with bearing on the bottom then add pully for belts.
The pulleys are my sticking point so far. I have a 24V motor, AXE controller, contactors, etc. Everything but the large cable and batteries (waiting on that until everything else is fit to the mower, so I know what batteries will fit).

The motor I have has a stepped output shaft, 7/8" closest to the motor, just over 3/4 at the end. I finally found a pulley setup on Ebay that takes a keyed 7/8" shaft, and received it, but mounting it is the problem. I'm going to have to cut the end off the motor shaft (circlip slot near the tip), then drill and tap the shaft for a bolt.

I'm trying to figure out the best way to do that, as I do NOT want to have to disassemble the motor to tap it. I might try running the motor with a 12V battery, and using a cordless drill at low speed to center the hole (if I drill before cutting off the tip, I can use the centering divot to help). The other choice is to finally unbox my drillpress, but it's a small one, so might not have enough throat to handle the motor length. I need to figure out the smallest diameter bolt that I can use, that might be tricky.

After that, I'll have to fit a washer into the pulley shaft and weld it into place, as the keyed insert in the pulley setup just ends about 2" into the shaft, with no shoulder for a bolt.

This stupid pulley mod looks to be the most involved work of the entire conversion!


In your case, you might have it "easy" - since you have to add a shaft anyways, you can mod the shaft before installing it to the motor, and make it fit whatever pulley shaft you have (in my case, the mower used a 1" output shaft, so the pulleys that came on it would not work with my motor).
 

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second opinion...
If you have a shaft that will fit in the end of the motor and the end of the pully, try to cut the pully end to the proper length(if needed), insert shaft into pully and motor, drill transversely through shaft at each end and drive in shear pins. Trying to drill a centered hole into the shaft end of the motor will be very difficuly to do. depth is too far to see acurately and hardened metal is the most difficult to start a drill hole and keep centered. In addition, any shavings from the drilling that may fall into the motor wouild be devastating. I have an industrial drill press (6 foot tall) and I would be afraid to try drilling that way
Thanks for the input! I was trying to figure out a better way. By shear pin, I assume you mean a rollpin, the spring steel rolled pins? Or do you mean solid (what I would consider a driftpin).

That might work, and if not, I can always consider tapping the rollpin hole, and threadlocking some hardened screws into it.

NOTE - my motor does not have a removable shaft. Here are pics of what I got on Ebay:



I'm sure I can unbolt the endplate and find a splined center shaft like most Crown forklift motors, but this one already had the endplate and shaft, so I went with it. The gear was circlipped on, so it's out of the way now.
 

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Most controllers, like the Curtis, have an input for an interlock signal. Or as I call it, a permissive signal. This input needs to be used. When the signal is not present, the controller shuts off. You need to put a microswitch on the brake pedal. And on the seat. Otherwise someone can get hurt easily. If you drive under a tree branch which is too low and it pins you to the rear of the tractor your first reaction is to hit the brake. It will not stop you unless the motor is turned off. And then if you do get knocked off the tractor, a seat switch will stop it from mowing down your children.

Be safe.

major
My wiring diagram already includes the ignition switch, seat switch, and foot pedal switch, ALL which must be on for the motor to spin - so even moving my foot off the pedal will shut it down. And I'm using a pot throttle that won't let it start at full throttle.

I believe in overkill ;-)
 
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