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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know it has four wheels but...
Starting out small here on a automobile conversion later in the year. My practice vehicle is a Riding Mower with blown engine.

I have ordered the motor (48 volt golf cart motor) on e-bay for $125.00 I have allready stripped the mower and have installed the battery racks and the batteries. Should have the wiring done this weekend. The question is....
do I really need a controller with this? I figure since the motor will be run full throttle at all times because the blades run off one belt and the selectable speed trans off the other.....

Any thoughts, Ideas, input......
I have a 48 volt on/off switch so I see no need in a controller.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hey Alex,

First, an "on/off" switch? You need a contactor. You switch 48 volts of battery across that motor and you'll draw hundreds of amps. That will fry a switch. Also, across the line starting like that will pull wheelies and break things. Motor controllers have a current limit and ramp-up features which are there for a reason.

Next, is that golf car motor series or SepEx? If it is a series motor and you run without a controller, try to shift on the fly, when you disengage the motor it will self destruct.

Next, does the motor have a drive end bearing? Most golf car motors pilot on the axle bearing.

Have fun with it, but be careful.

major
I should have been more specific, I have switch run to 48 volt snap contactor

belts for blades and tranny have pedal/arm release features that will release tension allowing motor to spin and that will slowly engage/disengage drive and blade components preventing wheelie. I.C.E. was 5000 r.p.m. Electric is 4000. R.P.M. and it is a series wound.

I am building mounting plate, adapter shaft with bearing for support of motor end.

I am thinking about an amperage limiter of some sort without purchase of a $300. controller
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi Alex,
And what is an "amperage limiter"? A resistor?

Regards,

major
I was thinking a resistor of some sort or a voltage regulator of some kind but now that others have chimed in on the "DO NOT DO THIS" bandwagon, I believe I'll go with a controller. I was just looking to save a greenback or two.

Us old folks sometimes get brain farts that lead us off to places we don't want to go......:eek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Here are some pics of what I have up to now. No wiring in yet but hopefully this weekend I'll have it running
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Forgot to mention, The electric motor fits the opening that was made for the ICE and it is a perfec fit. Drill the holes, mount the plate with bearing on the bottom then add pully for belts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
second opinion...
If you have a shaft that will fit in the end of the motor and the end of the pully, try to cut the pully end to the proper length(if needed), insert shaft into pully and motor, drill transversely through shaft at each end and drive in shear pins. Trying to drill a centered hole into the shaft end of the motor will be very difficuly to do. depth is too far to see acurately and hardened metal is the most difficult to start a drill hole and keep centered. In addition, any shavings from the drilling that may fall into the motor wouild be devastating. I have an industrial drill press (6 foot tall) and I would be afraid to try drilling that way
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yes by all means keep the end plate with the bearing assembly and convert your pully to go on it.

Update ----- First un-controlled test today (no controller yet) all went as planned. Did a 24 volt set up for test but had low charge on batteries. IT MOVED AND BLADES TURNED. YEEEEEEEEEE HAW Cant wait for remaining components to arrivwe so I can get some green cutting done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Sorry, I was so happy that my mower worked, I forgot to answer your question. Yes when I say Shear pin I mean roll pin as it is hollow and stands a better chance of shearing upon impact with a solid object that you may run over. A solid pin may or may not shear as easilly and could result in motor damage with unwanted impact of blade (depending upon tension of belt of course). I am having trouble determining from the photo if your output shaft is hardened steel (the gear obviously is). It does not look like it but I have been fooled before. If it is you may have to get a serious bit (carbon tipped titanium) but they are very expensive :eek:. Get only the one you need and not the entire $500.00 set or simply take it to a machine shop that can do it for you. They can also supply the corrrect shear pin.;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Thanks Major, for the note of caution. Safty is allways first order of business.;)

I had thought about that particular situation also. My solution was actually a simple one. A power cutt off safty pin attatched to a wrist rope. Yes the exact device used on my Jet Ski. It is going to be wired in to the ign switch circut to cut ign signal to the 48 volt solenoid. It will kill the motor when pulled out. I have allready wired in the seat safty swich to the same circut. Motor will not run unless DRIVER IS IN SEAT and PIN IS IN DASH.

Thanks Lexus.
I will start working on a video and get the teenager to figure out how to load it on that U-ube thing for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
My problem is that the motor has a sprocket on the shaft and it doesn't want to come off.......

{Pneumatic cutt off tool (air compressor required) will cut it then pry it off.}



Also, the shaft is 5/8" diameter and the original dual pulleys are for a 1" shaft. I am trying to figure out how I can mate these things,........

{local metal shop get steel tubing 5/8" I.D that is also 1" O.D.}

or should I do some engineering to make use of the sprocket? i.e.: mod the system to accept a chain drive?
Chain drive on lawn mower would be suicide No way to move it across yard or onto trailer without blades turning.:cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
My pot switch will be connected to the existing throttle cable. My unit only has a clutch/brake pedal and Wife allready knows how to operate the previously I.C.E. equipment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
update.....
My older batteries that I had laying around will not work for me. I charged them all to 12 volt and hooked up three of them to test sytem. System pwered up real well. Voltage drop from 38.5 on full charge to 18.5 within a couple of minutes. Turn off motor and I am back to near 28 volts. That is unacceptable for me.:mad:

Time to hit up Interstate for some new batteries.:eek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Hayes said:
So do you think the non-controller method is causing you battery woes?? Sounds like a real dollar winner for this project..

Alex:
Could very well be. I do know that my batteries are very weak and I am going to use brand new better quality wiring when my controller gets here, just for now, everything is in the testing stage.

Hayes Said: Intersted to know where you would spend 200 dollars on batteries and your thoughts on the 24 volt Lift Truck motor

Alex:
24 volt lift truck motor (depending on model) is probably much more substantial than a club car motor. Golf carts weigh 600-1000 lbs. Fork lifts weigh 2400 lbs and up. As long as you can attain 3500-4000 R.P.M.s, it should do fine. For a 24 volt system you could easilly buy two good quality deep cycle batteries for yours with that amount of money. Depending on availiability, You may want to consider four, six volt batteries. Plenty of room to store them, better performance (from what I have read here) and longer run time. Check out the battery threads here and you can get a better picture than what I can portray.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
An injury has me sidelined for the next week or so. I am not allowed outside (Warden Wife won't let me) by Drs. orders. Have all the brand new 2 guage wires, 48 volt dash meter, 48 volt solenoid and 48 volt controller. Pot switch is on the way but have not picked up the batteries yet
 
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