[Alex Everett]

My problem is that the motor has a sprocket on the shaft and it doesn't want to come off.......

{Pneumatic cutt off tool (air compressor required) will cut it then pry it off.}



Also, the shaft is 5/8" diameter and the original dual pulleys are for a 1" shaft. I am trying to figure out how I can mate these things,........

{local metal shop get steel tubing 5/8" I.D that is also 1" O.D.}

or should I do some engineering to make use of the sprocket? i.e.: mod the system to accept a chain drive?

Chain drive on lawn mower would be suicide No way to move it across yard or onto trailer without blades turning.

 

[Alex Everett]

My pot switch will be connected to the existing throttle cable. My unit only has a clutch/brake pedal and Wife allready knows how to operate the previously I.C.E. equipment.

 

[Alex Everett]

update.....
My older batteries that I had laying around will not work for me. I charged them all to 12 volt and hooked up three of them to test sytem. System pwered up real well. Voltage drop from 38.5 on full charge to 18.5 within a couple of minutes. Turn off motor and I am back to near 28 volts. That is unacceptable for me.

Time to hit up Interstate for some new batteries.

 

[Hayes]

Great Job... i've taken on a project..first one.. to convert a friend's.. he's tuning his up twice a year..and has had enough.

I'm leaning towards lift truck pump motor at 24 Volts...

So do you think the non-controller method is causing you battery woes?? Sounds like a real dollar winner for this project..

Intersted to know where you would spend 200 dollars on batteries and your thoughts on the 24 volt Lift Truck motor.

Hayes Myers,

ALS Incorporated
www.alsincorporated.com

 

[Alex Everett]

Hayes said:
So do you think the non-controller method is causing you battery woes?? Sounds like a real dollar winner for this project..

Alex:
Could very well be. I do know that my batteries are very weak and I am going to use brand new better quality wiring when my controller gets here, just for now, everything is in the testing stage.

Hayes Said: Intersted to know where you would spend 200 dollars on batteries and your thoughts on the 24 volt Lift Truck motor

Alex:
24 volt lift truck motor (depending on model) is probably much more substantial than a club car motor. Golf carts weigh 600-1000 lbs. Fork lifts weigh 2400 lbs and up. As long as you can attain 3500-4000 R.P.M.s, it should do fine. For a 24 volt system you could easilly buy two good quality deep cycle batteries for yours with that amount of money. Depending on availiability, You may want to consider four, six volt batteries. Plenty of room to store them, better performance (from what I have read here) and longer run time. Check out the battery threads here and you can get a better picture than what I can portray.

 

[MarxNutz]

I tried an experiment... I used one of those tools that you use to flange a copper pipe, cos it's basically the same action as a gear puller. Miracle of miracles, it worked! I successfully pulled the sprocket without having to destroy it! Too bad I have to go out of town for two days, cos I could have worked on my project instead. Well, there is always the weekend...

 

[Hayes]

Any updates on this project?

 

[Alex Everett]

An injury has me sidelined for the next week or so. I am not allowed outside (Warden Wife won't let me) by Drs. orders. Have all the brand new 2 guage wires, 48 volt dash meter, 48 volt solenoid and 48 volt controller. Pot switch is on the way but have not picked up the batteries yet

 

[siamsa]

I am looking to build an electronic version of my craftsman yard tractor. I am curious to find out how you did and if you can help me get started. Very much the newbie here.

 

[zig06]

I agree, do leave us hanging!, how did this work out? Any others out there with working EV mowers?

 

[aproldan]

glad to see others taking interest in converting their rideons into electric... i have done 3 but only one for cutting the other 2 are for riding and hauling stuff... they are a lot of fun to convert and even more fun to ride... hope to be of anyhelp to others in here.... here is a link to one of my vids with all 3 tractors running
and my favorite one

 

[cgates30]

I'm interested in converting my Yardman Yardbug to electric. Can somebody point me in the right direction regarding the necessary components and good pieces of equipment to consider? Is a DC electric motor, switch/contactor, batteries and cable enough? Or do I need a motor controller? What about using the components from an old electric golf cart?

 

[Batterypoweredtoad]

Does anyone have a link to a source for individual deck/blade motors? I think surplus center used to carry them. One of the previous mower threads had a link, but none of my searches have turned up any results.
Thanks!

 

[DIYguy]

I'm interested in converting my Yardman Yardbug to electric. Can somebody point me in the right direction regarding the necessary components and good pieces of equipment to consider? Is a DC electric motor, switch/contactor, batteries and cable enough? Or do I need a motor controller? What about using the components from an old electric golf cart?

I haven't got into this yet...but I would like to do the same perhaps this winter. I think the system from a golf cart would be perfect. Motor, controller, contactor, pot etc.

 

[Jimdear2]

I haven't got into this yet...but I would like to do the same perhaps this winter. I think the system from a golf cart would be perfect. Motor, controller, contactor, pot etc.

I just finished a conversion of an older Cub Cadet, The cub may not be one of the easiest tractor to convert, but when you are done you will have something that will last.

The one I did may have been over 40 years old and right now it runs and drives better then my one year old Husky. There are a wealth of parts and information available for the Cubs because of their toughness and the fact that they are one of the few tractors that will survive quarter scale tractor pulling.

You can generally find them without engines for $100.00 or less. They are very hard tractor to break so they can generally be broght back to life easily.

I used a rebuilt Prestolite HiLo pump motor and driect drive to the transaxle for mine, but the clutch and pressure plate system would be easy to adapt to an electric motor. I have an Alltrax 7245 controller and four 40ah agm batteries and a Tyco contactor. I put in an Albright Disconnect. I mounted all of the components under the hood on a plastic cutting board.

Two batteries went under the tractor on their sides in a combo footboard mountand battery rack and two under the seat/femder unit that doubles as a seat mount.

See the attached pictures of various stages of the conversion. Mine was done as a pulling tractor, and I think I can safely say it turnned out nice even with a quick rattle can paint job. You can see from a view of the transaxle why these things last, Thats a BIG lump of cast iron

Somre other tractors that should convert well are Wheelhorse, Allis Chalmers, Bolens, Sears Surburban and any other with a real steel frame cast iron transmission/axle and cast iron front axle.

If you want something that will last, stay away from hydros and anything with an aluminium transaxle unless you use a small motor, If you want something your grandkid will still be using, go with the older "real" garden tractors.

 

[cgates30]

That's a nice looking conversion you have there! Can you give more info on the conversion, maybe links for the parts and how much they should cost, etc?

Thanks!

 

[Jimdear2]

That's a nice looking conversion you have there! Can you give more info on the conversion, maybe links for the parts and how much they should cost, etc?

Thanks!

cgates30

I'll see what I can do tomorrow when I get home from work.

Jim

 

[slawking]

I agree, do leave us hanging!, how did this work out? Any others out there with working EV mowers?

Here is a link to a video of my recently operating Sears Craftsman Conversion...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GEam4PWM2AA

- Bob

 

[PartsMan]

You really need constant rpm for the blades.
Has anybody done an inverter and AC motor?
It would try and run steady rpm all the time.

We have a John Deere 90 out back. It has separate blade motors.

If you are feeling lazy you could get this (caution product plug) http://www.hustlerturf.com/products.html?sobi2Task=sobi2Details&catid=9&sobi2Id=19

 

[Dennis]

Way back when I was just a beginning member here I helped out someone who wanted a conversion with a tractor to electric. He needed a controller and wiring diagram to build his tractor. So I gave him a free Alltrax AXE4834 and give him a wiring diagram that I drew up in MS paint. So I suppose you guys are also looking for a wiring diagram. So here it is:

This circuit simply performs the AND function for safety as follows: the key switch, foot switch, seat switch, and throttle pot box lever switch must all be ON or HIGH in order for the lawn mower's traction motor to be active. The Key switch also engages the Negative side contactor. The reason a negative side contactor is used is so an extra safe guard is in place in case one of the contactors has a catastrophic failure such as welded contacts which makes it permanently ON. Also this actives the pre-charge circuit when the switch is turned on to avoid sparks being present when the user hooks up battery terminals to the batteries if this contactor was not present. Sparks at the batteries is not such a great idea so it also serves to reduce explosion hazards.

There is a warning that anyone who uses this wiring diagram should adhere to and that is the THE CONTROLLER MUST HAVE THE HIGH PEDDLE BEFORE POWER UP LOCK OUT ENABLED. FAILURE TO ENABLE THIS FEATURE IN THE CONTROLLER CAN RESULT IN SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH IN WHERE THE USER CAN HAVE ALL SAFETY SWITCHES ACTIVE EXCEPT THE KEY SWITCH WHICH THE USER MAY CUT THE KEY SWITCH TO THE "ON" POSITION RESULTING IN INSTANT TAKE OFF OF THE LAWN MOWER WITHOUT WARNING.