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Discussion Starter #341
If I remember correctly you are also experiencing brief “voltage leak” phenomena in which your voltmeter test was reading voltage briefly on the chassis ground?

I can’t recall but did you at least isolate the source to be from pack 2 ? Maybe both are related ? Essentially what I’m getting to is there might be an arch of some kind from pack 2 that is causing this leak and or boot issue?
I thought I might be having a HV voltage leak but later found that it was more of a capacitance effect. I could read a voltage between the frame and the battery pack but would quickly fall to 0 within a few seconds. This still may be somewhat contributing.
 

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I thought I might be having a HV voltage leak but later found that it was more of a capacitance effect. I could read a voltage between the frame and the battery pack but would quickly fall to 0 within a few seconds. This still may be somewhat contributing.
The primary question here is that capacitance effect different from pack1 to pack2. We're looking for anything that could tell us why one work, but the other is marginal and both together are a 'no-go'. After reading the manual you posted, it seems that the screen controller should keep some kind of log or have useful debugging information.
 

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I thought I might be having a HV voltage leak but later found that it was more of a capacitance effect. I could read a voltage between the frame and the battery pack but would quickly fall to 0 within a few seconds. This still may be somewhat contributing.
Would you be able to remove pack 2 from the car and try to see if it works that way ?

If the issue persists. Remove battery lid to make sure any conductive surfaces have sufficient clearance and try again.

Next remove cooling plate and try again .

Finally remove batteries from box completely and connect batteries in series again to try again.
 

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Discussion Starter #344
The primary question here is that capacitance effect different from pack1 to pack2. We're looking for anything that could tell us why one work, but the other is marginal and both together are a 'no-go'. After reading the manual you posted, it seems that the screen controller should keep some kind of log or have useful debugging information.
The controller does keep a log as long as you don't shut it off, which the boot cycle does. LOL!!
 

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The controller does keep a log as long as you don't shut it off, which the boot cycle does. LOL!!
It seems like there should be no way it shuts off unless the power or the key-enable is being interrupted (or possibly it can be sent a message to power down). I'd put a small light across the power and the key-enable an watch those carefully.
 

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Regarding your controler issue. Hows the canbus ? you have proper termination in both ends of network or maybe a broken termination?
 

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Discussion Starter #352
Regarding your controler issue. Hows the canbus ? you have proper termination in both ends of network or maybe a broken termination?
Thanks for the thought! I have checked in the past, but it is worth re-checking
 

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"I tried the Dremel too, and it just kinda smokes and burns through" ... I hate you. You're building a car. Put the Dremel in the wife and kid's craft room and don't take it out again until the build is done. You used a micro abrasive wheel to "cut" wood, of course it smoked and burned.

Do you not own a jigsaw? All the tools you've bought, you don't have a cheap jigsaw? They're like $20.

... the rear of the tire supposed to be exposed beyond the fender so much, or was that a function of you increasingly tightening it on the tape?

In my opinion,the rear of the fender looks best (maybe aside from how much it retreats from the wheel edge), the front pretty good, and the top not great. I'm not sure what should've been done instead, but the lines just don't blend great, that part of it looks like an add-on. You go from almost a convex look to a definitely concave and then back more convex.

You can use cardboard ribs to fine-tune the skeleton underneath before you apply fiberglass again.

Good job on not getting the entire workshop covered in fiberglass and epoxy. Seems that's what everyone has happen to them.

If you don't want your tools to stick to fiberglass, use wax. You can rub crayons on them or rub them against candles, or car wax, or all kinds of stuff. Same way to not get molds stuck to each other or other surfaces.

Driver's side matching panel is going to be tricky to replicate but, meh, it's a home made project, it's okay if it's not perfect.
 

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Discussion Starter #355
Wha..ha..ha..ha
I have you right where I want you.
Just for you, next week tool of the week will be the dremel tool ;)
 

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An episode that featured appropriate use of the Dremel tool in small, fine detail areas! And proper use of angle grinders and the oscillating tool instead of the Dremel!

stamps

Approved!
 
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