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What's interesting to me, is that different people have different blindspots in how they think things through. Lots of times in this build you approached a problem that I thought "Well why does that even matter? Just do X.", and then it's only after you're done I realize why it had to be done that way, and I would've made something that wouldn't have worked and wouldn't have realized it until I was done. This is one of the first times that the reverse happened, I looked at your hinge design and said "Well obviously that won't work... why would he think it will?" And it went exactly like I thought it would. Everyone's brain works a little differently.
Most simply, the hinge fulcrum has to be behind the farthest-back part of the trunk, or, like a teeter-totter, when one side goes up, the other side is going to dip down.
The shocks don't add any stability because they're on ball joints, so they're just loose and floppy. They're not constrained to open an equal amount either, so, nothing stops the trunk from twisting. And since they're not square, you can't add diagonal bracing to them to stiffen the motion (they're on ball joints because they need to be on ball joints, the angles change as it moves).
On my car, I'm half-considering having gull-wing doors, but the roof is arched, so it's higher in the middle than where you would put the hinges on the sides. Same problem, the middle will pinch. Can't avoid it without gigantic arched hinges and deep hinge points far inside of where the roof panel actually ends. On doors (versus for you, a trunk), you can't have a big arch swooping into the driver/passenger headspace, and you might not even have room to push them deeper, because you're already right at the spine (any further than the hinges would have to mount to the opposite door).
Solution perhaps from the aviation industry, to have deeper-sunk cutouts for the hinges:
That way, the hinging fulcrum is back far enough that the arch of roof doesn't come into play. You could try making that work
Another option for you, to go wide, might just be some different-shaped hinge beams. Different sizes/lengths of the arch might help it clear differently. Then you wouldn't have to have them pidgeon-toed in the middle only.
Most simply, the hinge fulcrum has to be behind the farthest-back part of the trunk, or, like a teeter-totter, when one side goes up, the other side is going to dip down.
The shocks don't add any stability because they're on ball joints, so they're just loose and floppy. They're not constrained to open an equal amount either, so, nothing stops the trunk from twisting. And since they're not square, you can't add diagonal bracing to them to stiffen the motion (they're on ball joints because they need to be on ball joints, the angles change as it moves).
On my car, I'm half-considering having gull-wing doors, but the roof is arched, so it's higher in the middle than where you would put the hinges on the sides. Same problem, the middle will pinch. Can't avoid it without gigantic arched hinges and deep hinge points far inside of where the roof panel actually ends. On doors (versus for you, a trunk), you can't have a big arch swooping into the driver/passenger headspace, and you might not even have room to push them deeper, because you're already right at the spine (any further than the hinges would have to mount to the opposite door).
Solution perhaps from the aviation industry, to have deeper-sunk cutouts for the hinges:
That way, the hinging fulcrum is back far enough that the arch of roof doesn't come into play. You could try making that work
Another option for you, to go wide, might just be some different-shaped hinge beams. Different sizes/lengths of the arch might help it clear differently. Then you wouldn't have to have them pidgeon-toed in the middle only.