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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Hi
Try and fit the motor a lot further back - ideally where the gearbox normally lives
For weight distribution and for battery space
Batteries are bulky and you really want them as low as possible - in my car the whole "engine bay" is for batteries and I could not fit my whole Volt pack - I fitted 6 off 2Kwh modules and 2 off 1Kwh modules but the remaining 2Kwh module is sitting in my workshop

Forklift motors - you need to go to the forklift repair place with cash in hand - they keep motors "Just in case" then scrap them off - normally the day before you visit

I'm using the Paul & Sabrina - 350 V 1400 amp controller - I have a Beta version


Ah! I did not see that they had such a controller. It's not listed on their site. It sounds like it's still a work in progress; is that right? Either way, given the prices of these controllers, I'd be willing to get out the soldering iron if they have a kit to sell!

Good point about putting the motor closer to the original transmission location. Once I get the motor in, I'll do some measuring and see what can be done. I'm sure it would be pretty easy to run some beams from the transmission crossmember forward to the motor mounts. It might stiffen up the front end a bit, too! I want to avoid drilling into/welding on the body as much as possible... it's just too nice!


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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Well, I've been working on the interior and such while working in figuring out the electrical part of this endeavor... made some progress!



I still need to tear out the ICE and such, but I'm not in a huge hurry at the moment.

I managed to get some new lever shocks from an MGB at a salvage yard, and I have new wheels ready waiting for some rubber. I'm taking delivery of my K11 tomorrow. I'm still trying to puzzle out a controller right now. I've learned a lot about pulse width modulation, semiconductors, and batteries. So that's cool. I've got some bits and bobs coming in for testing.

The K11 is rated for 250 volts and about 210 amps, so I'm seeing what it would take to make a controller myself or with a kit to match the motor. I was leaning toward spot welding my own battery packs together, but the Chevy Volt packs seem just as efficient, so we will see. Lots of decisions to be made.


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Hi
That is rated power - it is usual to slightly exceed those numbers in the search for automotive excellence

My 11 inch Hitachi is "rated" at 48 v and 208 amps
So I feed it 1200 amps and 340 v - it hasn't melted (Yet)
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Hi
That is rated power - it is usual to slightly exceed those numbers in the search for automotive excellence

My 11 inch Hitachi is "rated" at 48 v and 208 amps
So I feed it 1200 amps and 340 v - it hasn't melted (Yet)


Haha, just "slightly" exceeding the rating, eh? I'm thinking that I'll run it at 250 volts, but I want to be able to provide 1000 amps, even if I decide not to use it at that rating for the moment.


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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I've been emailing back and forth with Paul about his controller, and he's going to sell me a populated, high power DC control board. I'll assemble it from there. So that's another step of the planning done! He has a great set of instructions up, so I'll follow those to make my controller. Now I just need to figure out the BMS and charger situation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Well, I picked up the motor at the terminal today. It's not exactly what I would call "New in box!"... thank God for buyer protection on eBay!


The crate was in multiple pieces by the time I got to it at the terminal. Lots of broken parts. I guess the hunt is on for another motor, pending my eBay case.


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Try your friendly local Forklift repair or motor re-wind shop
And go in person with folding money

You want to rob their "just in case" pile before they send them to the scrap metal guy

I have had zero success talking to them on the phone - but dropping in seems to work
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Try your friendly local Forklift repair or motor re-wind shop
And go in person with folding money

You want to rob their "just in case" pile before they send them to the scrap metal guy

I have had zero success talking to them on the phone - but dropping in seems to work


I'll give that a shot. The seller doesn't accept returns, so depending on how this eBay case goes, I might end up with a refund and the motor, anyway.

If I end up having the motor, I'll see if I can clean it up. Otherwise, I'll be looking into repair shops :)


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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Well, I just had another call to eBay this morning to try to resolve the issue. I found that the seller lifted the "New in crate" picture and description from another site where some random dude posted his motor for sale. Closer inspection revealed that this is a completely different motor. The seller was trying to pull a scam, and my money has been locked up in the pits of PayPal and eBay since my purchase on October 30. eBay say I have to wait another week to get it back while they harass the seller. I reported them to eBay as a scammer, and eBay agrees. But we still have another week to go at the very least.

In other news, I bought some chevy volt battery packs, so at least I can work on that bit while I wait for my return and refund.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
I picked up 4 2013 Chevy volt 48v packs, so I'm looking to get one more for the time being to get in the 250ish v range. I got each pack for 235 bucks, so I'm happy about that. All told, I think I'm going to be pretty close to the original weight of the Midget, and I'm not planning on going too far with it. Just Saturday date driving. I'll post some pictures of the stuff I've gathered so far soon.

I closed the eBay case, and decided to just keep the motor. The price was decent for what I got, despite the scam attempt. The seller had stolen the photos and description from some other site in July, and sent me a completely different motor than he listed... I had a bad attitude about it and decided to just let it go eventually.

As far as mounting the motor in the engine bay, I was thinking of using one of these: Motor Cradle

I want to put that near the middle of the motor to locate it on the original motor mounts, and then bolt angle iron to the front and back of the motor. The angle iron would go to the sides of the engine bay... somewhere. I'm sure there's some mounting point I could use.

I was looking at Duncan's original advice of pushing the motor as far back as possible, but only the motor shaft would make it into the tunnel. The body of the motor is gigantic! That being said, with 5 batteries in the trunk, I think it will be OK. That's about 250 lbs, and the batteries have a pretty small footprint. I'll see how they fit when I get home today, as they're there waiting for me already!

Does anyone have any advice for a good BMS solution for the volt cells? I'll have 180 cells with 5 packs. I was looking at the other thread with the Cell log, but I want a more hands off system.
 

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Talk to the guy you are getting these from
see if he still has the T shaped base plate

If you drill the spot welds off you get these nifty mounting plates

The ears on the cells go into one side and then a clamp plate goes down on the near side

These two were made with a bit of cutting and welding to make two to hold my two batteries in place

I'm pretty sure that the bottom plate and the clamp plates will just be thrown away

There are a LOT of spot welds - but IMHO it's well worth it
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Hmm, That's pretty neat! I'll have to ask about that. Are you using the liquid cooling for your battery pack? There are lots of the end plates for sale, so I was thinking of just buying 3 of each, and connecting the hoses all in series. Space is at a premium in the Midget, so I won't be able to connect all of the cells in a single row.


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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
I'm using the water cooling

I used three 48v modules and 1 24v module stacked together in a line and then another of the same way



I put the whole thing on end and used a hose to get it full of water and get the air out


Ah, yes, I saw the pictures of you filling the coolant passages! I don't have nearly that much space, so we shall see! These batteries are a really nice solution, though. Lots of power on the cheap.


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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Well, I spent a bit of time over the last week tearing apart the ICE and putting a new interior in the car. I also installed a new master cylinder and got the brakes working. No leaks, so far! Quite a pleasant surprise. I also got some rubber on the new wheels yesterday and fitted them to the car. I also fitted a new gas pedal (the hinge for the old one had literally rusted into two pieces...) and throttle cable.

I'm getting all the car bits ready while I wait on the electrical bits.

I ordered a TC 3.3Kw charger, and I've decided to use it over a CAN bus from a ZEVA BMS. This seems like the most economical system that still meets my needs and has room for expansion in the future. I would have used one of their controllers, too, but I felt like it was not a good match for my K11. I want to run 200v, but their controllers are only rated for 144v.

ZEVA just released version 3 of their EV management system, and it looks awesome! I don't know if you all have seen it, but you can find more info here: http://www.zeva.com.au/

The last significant piece I'm trying to figure out is how to mount the electric motor. I've seen some cradles here and there, which look like they would work very well. However, since I won't be using a transmission, I need to mount the motor very solidly, since the face of the motor won't be held in place my the transmission plate.

How I mount the motor has a big impact on where I put the batteries. I'd like to put the 4 packs in the engine compartment, like we mentioned earlier, but that requires me to push the motor down and into the tunnel a bit, I think.

In conclusion, I really need to take some more pictures so you all know what I'm asking about! I'll take some when I get home to show off all the progress I've made :D I very much appreciate all of your insights.
 

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Hey jbman, I am quite envious of your project.

My car is not road legal and is probably slighly lighter than yours will be. I originally chose a Curtis controller and it was nothing but disappointing. I then changed to the ZEVA 1000amp unit and I couldn't be happier. I am running it off the Volt cells at 174Volts and a maximum of 1000amps at the motor, 500amps at the battery. I think if you achieve similar numbers you will be happy with the performance. Although you will likely need to upgrade the wheels and tyres to manage the power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 · (Edited)
Thanks, Galderi! I don't know exactly what to expect from the project performance wise. Hopefully we will know in a couple months! I would love to be able to light up the (admittedly) tiny tires. If this car were half as fast as my Mustang on completion, I would be stoked.



I strongly considered the Zeva controller, but I really wanted to up the voltage a bit since my motor is rated for 200/250 volts. Their controllers happily talk to the rest of their management system out of the box over CAN, which is very appealing. I'm waiting to receive my control board for Paul's HV controller. It's the only thing that meets my requirements, is available, and does not cost $5,000. I would have been happy with a Soliton1 as well, but I couldn't find one at a reasonable price, and I'd like to work with Paul if something breaks. He has been incredibly helpful with my questions. I wish he had a kit released for the high voltage model - I'd have bought it in a heart beat.

Edit: additionally, I took this photo of the wheels I chose. They're all messy from the lube stuff they use to mount the tires, but I like the style. I went from 2 flats, a miraculous survivor, and a bare rim to a nice full set ^_^


I am waiting in the seller to send me the MG center caps.
 

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If half the Mustang is your benchmark I'd be surprised if you are disappointed particularly considering the numbers you are talking about.

Here is one of my videos as a reference.
This is a 1170lb front wheel drive car. The front tyres are 250 wide slicks. But it does run a full gearbox so your launch might be sacrificed a little by going direct drive to the diff. Oh and keep in mind the on the day this video was taken I came mid field beating 50% of the Lotuses and Porsches. Power was not my weakness, rear grip was the major issue.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XXhOVGg55hI
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Haha, that's a great video. I took the Mustang to auto cross once here in CO. It's made to go fast in a straight line while handling "well enough." It's just way, way too much power for an unseasoned driver such as myself. That awkward moment when you realize you're a builder and tinkerer, not a driver...

I found a guy here in town that will make an adapter plate for me for the face of the motor. I just sent him the motor data sheet and my sketch. We shall see what the price is. I'm getting so close!


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