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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
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It is actually a microcontroller operated PWM controller. The board with the leds is where the throttle is wired to, it`s purpose is to generate the pwm.
Thats the only thing the 8 pins Atmel does here. The leds dont have any purpose, the board is cannibalized from some chinese toy.
The black cube is not a dc-dc converter- it is a relay, Pzgouras did not spare expenses.


The black wires are connected to the gate. Thea are really longer, I just had cut them, please note the gate resistor, next to the mosfet driver ic on the right of the main board.

How does one get away with 2,5 inch long gate wires? How can a gateresistor be that small? Well if you operate the IGBT and the driver at only 50hz way below at least 5kHz according to data sheets.

Pay attention to the soldering of the bottom side of the master piece - truely a Gouraz engineering.

Oh, thats it! There is nothing more in the, I admit very light plastic box, that is glued together by silicon, except 2 igbts.
Thats why a 25KW motor can easily to blow 2 brand new 1200V igbts.

By the way, the ep Jr is rated for some 300V, 500A, it bew up on a 120V 250A system- because:
No opocouplers, no dc-dc seperation of ground, no overcurrent protection, long leads everywhere, no built in main caps....
Pzgouraz is dreaming if he thinks and also writes in is manual to use external main caps- because every inch of wire lenth results in transient voltages that can kill any fet igbt in no time, even at 50Hz. There it doesn`t occur that often, but it does. The same also goes for the diode.
Thats the reason why no manufacturer leaves out on those parts, they would if they could.
Back to school I would have recommended, pertaining also to the soldering work, but Mr Pzgouraz probably is used to change names and sceemes quickly, but he sure won`t sell many ep juniors. :)
 

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The top doesn't look like the ones we use either. It looks like some parts are missing, although I'm not sure which ones.

This is not a complete EPjr. This is essentially the driver housing for the modular version that uses an external cap bank and diode on the motor.

The standard EPjr has a built-in Mallory cap bank and a 90-amp Infineon freewheel diode installed. It's plug and play, with an isolated switching power supply that auto detects the battery pack voltage (from 96V to 240). Same as the EP-1000.
 

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The top doesn't look like the ones we use either. It looks like some parts are missing, although I'm not sure which ones.

This is not a complete EPjr. This is essentially the driver housing for the modular version that uses an external cap bank and diode on the motor.

The standard EPjr has a built-in Mallory cap bank and a 90-amp Infineon freewheel diode installed. It's plug and play, with an isolated switching power supply that auto detects the battery pack voltage (from 96V to 240). Same as the EP-1000.
Yep, a whole lot different than the 1000 :confused:







Thank you very much. I inserted the images to make them easier to view.

major
 

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These pictures look a little more like ours. The only difference is that this one does not have the auto voltage detect powersupply that the new ones do.

The programming is slightly different on the new ones as well.
 

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These pictures look a little more like ours.
What are you talking about? It is the same perf board, same light dimmer kit, same components, even looks like the hook-up wire is off the same spool. Just a slightly different layout and # of gate resistors.
 

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What are you talking about? It is the same perf board, same light dimmer kit, same components, even looks like the hook-up wire is off the same spool. Just a slightly different layout and # of gate resistors.
I'm not sure what you mean by "light dimmer kit". It's an Atmel 8-pin processor with a potentiometer input. You can use it and program it anyway you want.

If someone wants to make a light dimmer kit with it, then by all means do it and sell it. We have no problem with that.
 

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I'm not sure what you mean by "light dimmer kit". It's an Atmel 8-pin processor with a potentiometer input. You can use it and program it anyway you want.

If someone wants to make a light dimmer kit with it, then by all means do it and sell it. We have no problem with that.

From eBay lisiting and web site: http://www.ebay.com/itm/230689834392

NEW DIGITAL 12V 60 WATT PWM VARIABLE BRIGHTNESS LED DIMMER DRIVER KIT



Quickar Electronics, Inc.



12 Volt Digital PWM Dimmer/ Speed Controller Kit.




sorry but there is no knob included, although the pot has a line on the end

that helps indicate where the power level is set


It’s an especially efficient PWM controller for 12VDC loads up to 60W.

You can either dial it in for the desired level or use the switch for a preset power level


of 1%, 10%, 25%, 50% or 100% and back to off again.

You can even mount a second speed step switch (optional - not supplied)


in a remote location off the main circuit board.

Only four connections for power and load. Please Note: you must supply your own 12vdc power source.

The neat thing about this PWM Kit is that you can dim LEDs, or use it as a speed controller for fans and motors.

Got a robot that runs too fast, well slow it down with this great kit.

There are actually a lot of applications for a simple circuit such as this.

Complete kit. Requires Soldering. Click here to see the online assembly / operating instructions







DIGITAL PWM KIT - $9.95


http://www.quickar.com/dpwm.pdf

It is a light dimmer kit which the maker says can be used for speed control.

The point is that you knowingly use a crappy little "kit" circuit board in a product which you sell for propulsion system control in automobiles which can find their way onto public roads. This is totally irresponsible and dangerous. Should someone end up being injured or killed due to your "product", I hope that the litigation will find you personally responsible and warned here and send you up river for a long while to think about it.

Get your crap off the market.

major
 

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The point is that you knowingly use a crappy little "kit" circuit board in a product which you sell for propulsion system control in automobiles which can find their way onto public roads.
Also sad is that this crappy little circuit board is a much higher quality than the rest of the control circuitry.

 

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Hi. Maybe I'm missing something in that picture but all I see in the driver board are two TO-90 switches that typically puff out at 100mA. Not sure how they get 60 Watts out of that.

The EPC controllers are so scary I might wear one for Halloween. I think I'll be an "EPC junior" this year and scare kids when they come to my front porch. And then explode for no apparent reason.

JR
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
What are you talking about? It is the same perf board, same light dimmer kit, same components, even looks like the hook-up wire is off the same spool. Just a slightly different layout and # of gate resistors.
My ep Jr only had 1 gateresistor - for 2 IGBTs and the gate wires were only 2 inch long.
But unevenly long, one was shorter than the other!

When I received the piece, I looked inside to see what`s inside. First I thought to not even install it in the car, because I didnt believe that it would work at all.
When I tried it on a lightbulb, I noticed a 50 Hz humm. The osci proofed I heared right.
Since I have never seen or heared of any igbt operated on such a low frequency I gave it a try. I was surprised to see it work- for some hour. Than it gave up.
Must be the very low frequency that it gets away with such long gate wires and such small gateresistors.
This igbt drive incorporates ALL the dont´s one can read up in ap notes and data sheets.
Btw, the datasheet for those ibts list frequencies of 5kHz- 20KH:rolleyes:z
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Where did you get this board from? Our boards don't have wiring like that under them. Was this modified?
I got this board out of a EP JR labeled plastic housing that was accompanied by a EP jr labeled manual in which I read that here was no caps, nor diodes to be found on the controller, those must be insalled seperaely.
Scary I thought, since every inch of wiring either on main caps, or diodes mean transients that could easily exeed any igbts limit.
Scary I thought, when I didn´t see any current protection, since brushed dc motors tend to generate brush fire once a while, truely only for some micro secondes, but they do. And the currents in such short cut conditions might reach values exeeding maximum ratings easily.
That is why consumer electronics controllers must have: Diodes and main caps built in (for the wiring) and seperate grounds for voltage protection, and they must incorporate suitable fast current protection. Thats for Igbt`s as well as for fets.
This board was insalled in a EP Jr labeled controller that I received from Evpartsdepot with a one year warrenty.
Sofar I was told to waiting for replacement parts. That was some month ago.
 

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I got this board out of a EP JR labeled plastic housing that was accompanied by a EP jr labeled manual in which I read that here was no caps, nor diodes to be found on the controller, those must be insalled seperaely.
Scary I thought, since every inch of wiring either on main caps, or diodes mean transients that could easily exeed any igbts limit.
Scary I thought, when I didn´t see any current protection, since brushed dc motors tend to generate brush fire once a while, truely only for some micro secondes, but they do. And the currents in such short cut conditions might reach values exeeding maximum ratings easily.
That is why consumer electronics controllers must have: Diodes and main caps built in (for the wiring) and seperate grounds for voltage protection, and they must incorporate suitable fast current protection. Thats for Igbt`s as well as for fets.
This board was insalled in a EP Jr labeled controller that I received from Evpartsdepot with a one year warrenty.
Sofar I was told to waiting for replacement parts. That was some month ago.

I think the problem is that you purchased the modular version of the EP-Junior, which requires all the external components, when you really wanted the plug-and-play version.

We can send you the P-N-P version instead, which is complete, if you want.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I think the problem is that you purchased the modular version of the EP-Junior, which requires all the external components, when you really wanted the plug-and-play version.

We can send you the P-N-P version instead, which is complete, if you want.
Well so far I didn`t get anything, and it`s been 3 month now that I informed you that there is a warrenty issue to be handled. Looks like I`ll have to turn this over to a lawer.
 

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Well so far I didn`t get anything, and it`s been 3 month now that I informed you that there is a warrenty issue to be handled. Looks like I`ll have to turn this over to a lawer.
We cannot find any record of you or your warranty. Can you send me your complete name, address, and phone number to this address:

[email protected]

You can also send me everything in a private message so that we can process the warranty. Once we get the information we can process your warranty right away.
 
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