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Hey, Travis here,

I sell this ME 1616 or ME1507 combo with Sevcon Gen4 Size 6. I've sold to a dozen or so customers and so far they're getting good results and have been happy. I program the Sevcon for these motors.
http://www.emf-power.com/

Some information that I got direct from my supplier Motenergy:

The 1507 and 1616 are the same rotor/stator, but the 1507 is air cooled and 1616 is water cooled.

Both designed for 96VDC battery voltage and 650A peak current. Max rotor RPM of 8000RPM. IP65 rated. Sealed ball bearing. Sin/cos encoder. Neodymium magnets with a 150C rating. Designed for field weakening for controllers that support that option. 92% peak efficiency. The number of poles is 10 (5 pole pairs).

Continuous rating for the 1507 (using sevcon gen4) is 157A with a peak of 650A. Torque constant is 0.22Nm/Amp. Peak power is right around 48kW at 600A with a 100VDC supply going to the Sevcon. The 1616 is similar but can withstand for longer duration due to liquid cooling.

I can only comment on the numbers when paired with the Sevcon Gen4. Other controllers might achieve higher results on a dyno.
 

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Is sad to see posts being deleted.

The eBay vendor has posted here his thoughts explained quite a bit about the motor and defended himself, but got deleted or deleted himself.

Anyways, I got the motor and batteries and everything else.

What is taking some time is the "shell"
I don't see myself driving any kind of car especially with the investment made.
I have to enjoy it not only being electric but also the "ego" part of it. I hatter wait for the right thing to show up than start with a soso shell just because is cheap or easy to convert. Sorry we have to wait longer.

As I said before, soon as I have it tested I'll post results here. Or not, I still have to ask my guy if he got deleted or deleted himself, if he got deleted by forum admin. Without explanation, I will also leave the forum and post no more.
 

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I've been doing a little digging for information about the ME1616 motor. There's not much information available yet, but I did find out that the air-cooled version – the ME 1507 – is very similar to the 75-7 motor used by Zero motorcycles. Motenergy apparently supplies this motor to Zero.

Like Travis says, when matched with a Sevcon Gen Size 6 controller and 100V battery pack it has a peak output of around 50 kW at just under 4000 rpm. According to the sources I've found (including the Motenergy site) the recommended rev limit is 6000 rpm.

There's an interesting thread on the Endless Sphere forum by a guy who is using the Zero 75-7 motor in an electric race kart. There's video of his dyno run about a third of the way down this page: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=68543&start=75
 

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I really like the ME1616 but one thing really worries me is the super low torque
I can never understand how you can have 22KW of power and ony 32 NM
 

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I really like the ME1616 but one thing really worries me is the super low torque
I can never understand how you can have 22KW of power and ony 32 NM
You just need to spin fast enough. High speed with low torque and low speed with high torque have the same effect, as long as you have the gearing to accommodate the speed.

That's 32Nm torque continuous. The peak is like 120Nm.
Or from published specs:
Maximum rotor speed: 6000 rpm
Continuous power: 20kW, Peak power: 55kW
Continuous Torque: 32Nm, Maximum Torque: 120 Nm
Power is simply torque multiplied by speed (in appropriate units of measure)
Torque (N.m) = 9.5488 x Power (W) / Speed (RPM)
Power (W) = Speed (RPM) x Torque (N.m) / 9.5488
Speed (RPM) = 9.5488 x Power (W) / Torque (N.m)​

  • 32 Nm of torque would need to be delivered at the motor's maximum of 6000 rpm to produce 20 kW.
  • 120 Nm of torque would need to be delivered at 4376 rpm to produce 55 kW.
 

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OK I hear what you are saying but - What about the old line that torque is instant so some motors put out 100Nm from zero RPM - am I just confused about what is being said? so it says .15nm per amp so to get 120nm i need 800 amps X 96 volts = nearly 80KW OMG
 

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What about the old line that torque is instant so some motors put out 100Nm from zero RPM...
You're mixing up two entirely separate concepts.

"Instant" is a matter of timing, and means without delay. Any motor changes torque or power output in a small fraction of a second. By the way, so does an engine, although the engine response is not as fast. If you are driving at whatever road speed corresponds to your motor turning, for instance, 3000 rpm, then it can go from low torque to the maximum torque for that speed as quickly as you can push the pedal down... but unless 3000 rpm is a speed at which the motor can produce its peak torque, you can't have that peak torque.

"from zero RPM" is a statement about what torque is available at what motor speed. A common characteristic of electric motors (DC, or AC with a variable frequency drive as is used in every EV) is that they can produce about the same torque at any speed from zero up to some rated speed for maximum torque. Above that speed, less torque is available... the faster the motor turns the less torque it can produce.

At zero speed, any amount of torque still corresponds to no power being produced. At any speed, the power produced is half of what it would be at twice the speed and the same torque. A typical EV (with only a single gear ratio, not a multi-ratio transmission) needs to be moving at at least 1/4 of its top speed to be able to get the maximum power out of the motor. With a maximum speed of only 6000 rpm, this motor will almost never be able to produce its maximum power, because the car will not be driving at a high enough road speed to get the motor speed up to where it needs to be.

so it says .15nm per amp so to get 120nm i need 800 amps X 96 volts = nearly 80KW OMG
Except that the voltage to the motor will only be 96 volts at some very high speed. The electrical power into the motor is amps times volts, but at low speed the voltage required is low.

My guess is that at the 4376 rpm needed to (briefly) produce 55 kW, it really does need the full 96 volts, so it takes 80 kW of electrical power to produce 55 kW of mechanical power, for 69% efficiency. At lower speeds and still trying to produce maximum torque, it would take just as much current but less voltage, for both less power input (amps times volts) and less power output (Nm times RPM) than at this peak-power condition.
 

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Hello, new here
I've heard a lot of talk about the me1616.
I guess I learned the hard way that if it's too good to be true it probably is.
I have the motor installed and driving. The add read highway capable, maybe in rush hour traffic. Top speed was 51 mph and it took a long time to get there. I adjusted the battery amp from 42 to 60% and it hit 60mph. I talked to the vendor and he said running the motor at 200amps for more than a few seconds would burn up the motor. Kind of strange that his add says 250amps continuous.
My golf cart will out accelerate this thing.
The car I have it installed in is a 1200lb vw based kit car with 4 Tesla S batteries, the claims of 70+ hp and 100ftlbs of torque should rip the tires off this thing.
Sorry to vent but I wasted a lot of time and money on false claims.
I hope for the sake of anyone else who bought this system that I just got the bad one.
 

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I have the motor installed and driving. The add read highway capable, maybe in rush hour traffic. Top speed was 51 mph and it took a long time to get there. I adjusted the battery amp from 42 to 60% and it hit 60mph. I talked to the vendor and he said running the motor at 200amps for more than a few seconds would burn up the motor. Kind of strange that his add says 250amps continuous.
I guess there's 2 thing to consider...

1 - Can the motor do it at all.

2 - How does the motor get when you force it to do that.

If the ad is claiming 250 amps continuous, and you have a quote from the guy sayng it'll burn up at 200amps for more than a few seconds, that is immediate refund in my books. If you bought with a credit card, you can almost surely dispute this using that evidence.

On the other hand, maybe you're just being too light on the motor. If it's not overheating, just demand more of it. In particular, for the like, 10 seconds it would take to reach highway speed at reasonable acceleration, it shouldn't be damaging the motor. And maintaining highway speed is a lot easier than quickly accelerating to it.
 

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This is the message I received.
Just so you know, properly water cooled, the ME1616 will overheat with a continuous current beyond 170A DC. A peak amp for a few seconds at 200A is OK, but you will need to back it down to below 170A for continuous driving. What are you using for batteries?
 

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Just so you know, properly water cooled, the ME1616 will overheat with a continuous current beyond 170A DC
You're using 4 Teslas S batteries, I presume at 22.8v nominal each? So 91.2 volts.

91.2 volts * 170amps = 15,504 watts. Or 20.7 horsepower.

Umm, yeah, no wonder you struggle to reach highway speed. You could've just done that math ahead of time.

It claims 77hp peak, 30hp continuous, off of 96v x 250 amps. That's 32hp, so, that's right, but I'm not sure how you'd ever get to 77 hp.

Later in the ad it claims 240 amps continuous (1 hour), 600 amps for 30 seconds. This contradicts 170 amps continuous in the email, yes.

However, the ad makes sense. Run it at 120v, capable of 600 amps for 30 seconds is fine. That's 100hp, you'd be up to highway speed far quicker than 30 seconds. Then fall back to maintaining highway speed.

The seller's response of asking you what batteries you're using seems reasonable, since your voltage is quite low for the expectation of pushing a car. (Even though the controller ad says 96v).

All told, just looking at the specs mentioned, I'd say the performance you're getting is exactly what would be expected from those specs.

The issue is if the max voltage actually is 96, and if your motor can even demand enough current when it's close to its max speed.
 

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The seller is telling me that I have too much battery for the motor and that I am damaging it by pushing too many amps into it. The 18 to 120v in the add is the controller, I don't know the maximum voltage for the motor.
 

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The seller is telling me that I have too much battery for the motor
96 volts is "too much battery" for a "highway speed EV" on a 44lb motor?

Seller is out to lunch.

Either voltage goes up, or it's not a highway-capable vehicle at 170 amps. How many amps is it even pulling at highway speeds when the back-emf is kickin'?

Do you even know either piece of information for the seller to be concerned?:

1 - How many amps the motor's actually pulling.
2 - How hot the motor is getting.
 

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Ok, so it's not just me.
The highest amp reading that I've seen was 200amps, the temp sensor on the motor is jumping all over so I installed a thermal couple in the water cooling line coming out of the motor and the hottest that the motor is has gotten is 110* Fahrenheit. Way below the the maximum 302* Fahrenheit.
Is it safe to run the controller at the maximum voltage?
 

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The highest amp reading that I've seen was 200amps, the temp sensor on the motor is jumping all over so I installed a thermal couple in the water cooling line coming out of the motor and the hottest that the motor is has gotten is 110* Fahrenheit. Way below the the maximum 302* Fahrenheit.
It is not correct to assume that the temperature of the water coming out of the motor is the same as the motor temperature. The motor is probably transferring heat to the water ineffectively, so it is not getting cooled enough.

For illustration, consider an open pot (not a pressure cooker) on a stove, sitting on a red-hot heating element or high flame. As long as it contains water, the water temperature will never be higher that the temperature of boiling water at your elevation (100 C / 212 F or less), but the pot (like the motor) is a lot hotter than that.
 

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What Brian says is correct, however, it doesn't make it false either. It definitely might just not be getting very hot.

The controller is the real limit. Don't go above its recommended voltage.

The motor isn't going to magically die at higher voltage, it's just going to overheat faster.

It's a small motor, so, I dunno. People put bigger hub motors on E-Bikes.
 

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I ran the calculations, it's possible to hit 77hp with 96v at 600a, the seller is telling me not to go over 200 amps for a few seconds. 25hp then stay below 170a continuous 20 hp
The only way I see this thing going down the highway is on the back of a tow truck.
 

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My Device is DC and very poor aerodynamically but at 130 volts and 200 amps it could maintain 100 kph - with my motor I needed more voltage just to drive the current across the motor at the higher rpms
 
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