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I’d be grateful for anyone’s ideas who might share them as to the attached architecture for my 1946 Dodge Sedan conversion. Some things are set: motor, controller, number of leaf battery modules. I’m trying to be extra scrappy in my approach, without being cheesy.

Thanks.
 

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You're not going to get a lot of people to download and open a PDF. Reformat and post your specs in text here for a better chance of feedback.

Your build is loosely okay.

Your choice of an 8" DC motor is oddly specific. Is this something you've already got? I wouldn't have chosen this. It's small for an EV. I think it would struggle to reach highway speeds, what are your goals?
 

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For the 12V stuff, all you need is a DC/DC converter. It powers all the 12V electronics and charges the 12V battery from the traction pack. I also wired up a Battery Tender Jr for when it's plugged in, but that's not necessary.

If I were you, I'd find high-voltage components for heating directly off the traction pack, but that's not too important.

What's the benefit of the Curtis over, say, a HyPer9 or Leaf motor? You have the pack to run closer to 400V. What are your goals?
 

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What's the benefit of the Curtis over, say, a HyPer9 or Leaf motor? You have the pack to run closer to 400V. What are your goals?
It's a Curtis controller, not a Curtis motor. I'm guessing that the motor is some random series-wound brushed DC unit that the builder already owns.
 

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Many thanks for the feedback so far received, including as to the best way to present the issue of the moment. I’m using a 8’ series wound because I have it, and the Curtis motor controller as well. The other piece I have is a Leaf batter pack disassembled then “repacked” into two battery packs made from the original leaf pack (12 module and 25 module). 36 (7.5v) modules.

my performance goals are likely considered modest. 40mph max speed, very comfortable at 35mph, 20 miles range.

my rig is a 1946 Dodge sedan. 3000lbs. Engine and trans removed are about -575Lbs. I think I’ll be under that by a couple hundred pounds in the front after adding a 24 module pack, motor, battery junction box, controller, etc. I’ll probably add 200lb in the trunk with a battery pack there. I’ll also have some weight saving in thetrunk area from eliminating the gas tank.

I’d like to start with questions regarding the Battery Junction Box. My plan is to leverage the battery junction box from the leaf. It runs two Panasonic AEV6505A relays (One pos, one neg). Also two other wires that seem to run a heater relay (AEV6501C). The main positive relay has a precharge circuit. Questions:

1. To utilize the main pos relay and it’s pre-charge circuit do I simply power each of its two wires? Does this both open the relay and first go through a precharge routine. Alternatively, do I need to wire the precharge circuit independently somehow.

2. Step back to mega basics: as to the two wires entering each of the main relays is it just a matter of putting 12v to it (each side/wire) or are there two 12v circuits operating off a grounded negative created by the relay mounts (I notice they are set up for strong conductivity with the battery box). Or is it all still different than that.

reiterating: I have a battery junction control box from a Leaf and I’d like to use it on a direct wire (no can bus) approach that included the benefits of the precharge circuit. How should wire it?\
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Finally, forgiving me for not waiting u til I have the competence for this project as
 

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You're not going to get a lot of people to download and open a PDF. Reformat and post your specs in text here for a better chance of feedback.

Your build is loosely okay.

Your choice of an 8" DC motor is oddly specific. Is this something you've already got? I wouldn't have chosen this. It's small for an EV. I think it would struggle to reach highway speeds, what are your goals?
Thanks. Great advice.
 

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For the 12V stuff, all you need is a DC/DC converter. It powers all the 12V electronics and charges the 12V battery from the traction pack. I also wired up a Battery Tender Jr for when it's plugged in, but that's not necessary.

If I were you, I'd find high-voltage components for heating directly off the traction pack, but that's not too important.

What's the benefit of the Curtis over, say, a HyPer9 or Leaf motor? You have the pack to run closer to 400V. What are your goals?
Good stuff. Thanks for taking the time. I posted more, basically I’m trying to be opportunistic about working with what I have, and I have modest performance goals for the rig.
 

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It's a Curtis controller, not a Curtis motor. I'm guessing that the motor is some random series-wound brushed DC unit that the builder already owns.
Prescient. And spot on. But, true story, this series 8 was once in White Zombie, so it has a petigree. I’m only asking it to do 40 mph.
 

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Prescient. And spot on. But, true story, this series 8 was once in White Zombie, so it has a petigree. I’m only asking it to do 40 mph.
I mistakenly overstate the motor’s ancestors. It is a ADC203-06-4001. That performs as follows:


=============Motor Specs=================
Operating range 72 to 120V
Weight: 48.5kg
Diameter: 20cm (8.0") Length: 37cm (14.7")
At 72 volts
Continuous rating: 12.1 kw (16.0 hp)
Peak output: 31.5 kw (42.0 hp)
At 96 volts
Continuous rating: 14.4 kw (19.0 hp)
Peak output: 51.0 kw (68.0 hp)
At 120 volts
Continuous rating: 16.3 kw (21.7 hp)
Peak output: 62.0 kw (83.0 hp)and is of the same type as one of the White Zombie motors, but did not actually push that car. I wanted to be clear on its historical achievements.
 

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1. To utilize the main pos relay and it’s pre-charge circuit do I simply power each of its two wires? Does this both open the relay and first go through a precharge routine. Alternatively, do I need to wire the precharge circuit independently somehow.

2. Step back to mega basics: as to the two wires entering each of the main relays is it just a matter of putting 12v to it (each side/wire) or are there two 12v circuits operating off a grounded negative created by the relay mounts (I notice they are set up for strong conductivity with the battery box). Or is it all still different than that.
The Leaf contactors are just standard (biggass) relays, controlled by a 12V signal. Turning them on and off is somewhat dependent on how your controller works.

In my car, I have the ignition switch turn on the negative relay, and my Thunderstruck VCU has an algorithm that turns on the precharge, does some checks, then turns on the positive contactor (separate wire from precharge). I tied all three ground wires together for all three contactors.

If they're behaving unexpectedly, they might be melted/fused internally (though they'll still click on and off—you have to check continuity across the main posts).
 
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