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I was just about to ask...Photos!...
I don't think he's reversing the crossmember - he'll just be sitting on top of it, rather than behind it, so he's rotating the rack "on its mounts", so to speak, to get the steering wheel ahead of the wheels. There shouldn't be any changes in Ackerman, or any of the geometry.Hi Woodsmith,
Are you planning to widen the cross member? Reversing the cross member and rack position without rejigging the steering geometry will give you toe in on turn instead of toe out. Sort of a reverse Ackerman steering geometry. Either the rack needs to be narrower or the cross member wider to accommodate the changes that are needed to the steering arms to correct the steering geometry.
I don't know your laws but I don't think a rear "windscreen" would be legal in front, in the US. The front is made with laminated plain glass, while the rear is usually a single piece of tempered safety glass. The reasons it would be frowned upon in front are the thousands of tiny glass fragments that would explode in your face, upon impact. Even though the glass actually fractures into shards, the laminated glass is proven to take one heckuva hit and keep them mostly in place....the best thing for size and shape seems to be rear screens...
Agree 100%Sweeeeeeeeeeeeet!...
Agree 1000% - this place isn't the same without Woody's magic!...it's good to see Woody tinkering again...
I have never been too crazy about reverse trikes, but that thing is soooo freakin cool!!...However, it would appear that someone has built an ICE powered version of the layout I am thinking of...
Maybe he was Christening the builder of the ship, in a sign of approval!...The seller had a Staffie puppy that was so excited to have a visitor that it 'leaked' over my left boot while hopping about for attention!...
After the makeshift seat fell off the bit of wood on the tool box and the upside down wobbly jack and hit me on the head...
...Woody has realised that due to my short stature, if I want to drive it, he may have to complicate the driving position with some adjustability. Either that, or he'll extend my legs....
Too funny!Extending your legs might be the easier option, I'd just need to weld extensions on somewhere....
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I think this bit information has transformed and freed the front of my car - see my thread this evening for details......In the meantime I bought a cheap steering bevel box to get the steering column in the right place...
...and also reverses the steering!...
You want reverse steering on your car!
I guess it would make an interesting anti-theft device!![]()
I love the idea on Schism (have yet to get beyond the mock-up...Maybe I have to take inspiration from Todd and run a jackshaft!![]()
That makes a lot of sense, if I'm "seeing" correctly. Should make for a nice, neat, little setup.I have been picturing the jackshaft as a long shaft taking the drive from one end of the motor to the other end, resulting in the motor DE facing to the other side of the trike to the final drive chain.
It would require two sprockets, splined or keyed to a shaft that is able to handle the torque. this could be a little costly and require more accurate engineering.
However, I could also get two pilot bore sprockets...
...I can then line them up on a setting up shaft and bolt them together using the boss for chain clearance. The bore can then be machined out for a pair of bearings and then the set up fitted to a fixed shaft at the DE of the motor.
Easier and simpler and the motor faces the same way.
I'll do a drawing another time as I am not at home.
Awesome Woody!I had one of those 'couldn't sleep at night' thoughts about the gearing.
The compound sprockets is the simplest solution, but in the wrong place. It gets in the way of having the motor out on its own and uncluttered.
The solution is to incorporate the compound sprockets into the swing arm.
If I use 10 and 20 tooth sprockets bolted together and placed with bearings on a sliding axle midway along the swing arm then adjusting the eccentric tensioner in the wheel hub will tension both runs of chain.
One chain guard would cover the chain run and render it mostly inconspicuous.
It would also be a good point at which to adjust gearing to suit once the trike is running.
I will need to rebuild the swing arm to fit it in properly but I think I can do a better job of the swing arm at the same time.![]()
Looks like it will still pick up fluid and sling it around fine. Plus, you're only going to be spinning it (input) at 3K - I think it would live....Have a look at this inside shot of the BMW K100 gearbox.
It has an input shaft, two main shafts with dog clutches on both, and a selector cam stack.
Will it run upside down? I am thinking of swapping the breather and the sump plug and inverting the box. The photos are deliberately ambiguous to solicit opinion as to whether I can get away with it or not....
Now, I'm getting confused between our trike projects! I first looked at the sketch and thought where is he going to sit?! Then, I remembered where the cab is, and realized I was trying to sit you in my kart seat!I did a bit of measuring and did a quick measured sketch.
I figured I can just about fit all the motor and trans inside a 12" square back bone. That lead me to drawing in 12" square section battery boxes on each side with cut outs for the swing arm bearings and the gear selector. the tail end of the battery boxes may be tapered down towards the swing arm to 'tie' them in a bit.
I figured that I could run on 72V if my top speed is that low and I have gears to play with and the battery boxes will have plenty of room for decent 6v or 12v cells and lots of insulation. I am hoping they will 'hang' on the outside of the chassis like truck fuel tanks.
The chassis will be divided along the length to isolate the long propshaft and to give room for the service battery, charger, controller, etc.
I am wondering if I can make it out of large radius folded sheet steel with internal bracing and bulkheads. Maybe a complete 'closed tank look' with access hatches for the bits inside.
Otherwise four lengths of round tube with sheet welded in the sides and base.
I forgot to reply, but left the tab open to remind myself.Looking at Todd's trike, and how the frame rails extend past the outsides of the rear wheel axles, I decided to have a look at mine to see how that would look. Not going to do it as I would not be able to remove the wheel and it would completely alter the single sided swing arm look.
In the process it occurred to me that now I don't have a big motor at the back the swing arm pivots don't need to be so far apart. In my earlier sketch, above, I placed the joints on either side of the chassis with the FD unit in between set to the left.
However, without the motor it also means I can move both pivots to the right of the FD and bring them closer together reducing the width of the swing arm.
It will increase the forces on the pivots due to lateral loading on the rear wheel. I am using M20 rose joints, they are big! The chassis in that area can be 'big' too!
Seriously though. If the pivot is strong enough like that then it does simplify the build and layout .![]()
I like that better. I love the big "rose joints" as you call them...Anyway, Another option on the pivot is to not use the two M20 rose joints but to use a Land Rover stub axle bolted to the centre line of the chassis frame. The swing arm can then have a pair of Land Rover wheel bearings fitted into a machined tubular hub. That will allow proper taper rollers and grease seals to be used and also any free play can be taken up.
Fitting and removing the swing arm, for maintenance, will be easy too.
I reckon a Land Rover hub will be plenty strong enough to support the lateral loads from the swing arm.