[EVDL List]

Ryan Stotts wrote:
> I looked for copper bolts, but haven't found any yet(ever seen them?).

Sure, they exist. I see them now and then on electrical equipment
(relays, buss bars, etc.) so someone makes them.

> Would it be better to use brass bolts instead of stainless steel bolts?

Well, normal (yellow) brass has about 4 times the resistance of copper.
But stainless steel has more like 10 times the resistance!

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Have you tried your local True Value or Ace Hardware
stores. I have them in Arizona. Also I have seen brass
in boating stores.
Grainger is another possibility.

--- Ryan Stotts <[email protected]> wrote:

> I looked for copper bolts, but haven't found any
> yet(ever seen them?).
>
> When using buss bars to connect batteries(example):
>
> http://www.plasmaboyracing.com/graphics/stack.jpg
>
> Would it be better to use brass bolts instead of
> stainless steel bolts?
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>




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there is a small demand for non-magnetic parts for the
paleomagnetic field of geology. they might be a
source for these items, if you can not find what you
want i can dig in to my old contacts for stuff.

speaking of which there was a thread that died quickly
about magnetic fields on humans: keep in mind many
people have spend a lot of time in extreme magnetic
fields without issue. i don't claim all magnetic
fields are safe [for more than one reason] but
currently their is little reason to worry about it.
MRIs are common in hospitals and 'zero' magnetic
fields are are common in 'paloemagician' work

--- Ryan Stotts <[email protected]> wrote:

> I looked for copper bolts, but haven't found any
> yet(ever seen them?).
>
> When using buss bars to connect batteries(example):
>
> http://www.plasmaboyracing.com/graphics/stack.jpg
>
> Would it be better to use brass bolts instead of
> stainless steel bolts?
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>


Albuquerque, NM
http://geocities.com/hendersonmotorcycles/blog.html
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/1000
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/1179
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/1221
http://geocities.com/solarcookingman



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If you are using floodies, use stainless - anything else won't cut the
mustard. Too much corrosion; the connections need to be tight, because the
integrity of the connection between the post and the lug is what counts.

Joseph H. Strubhar

Web: www.gremcoinc.com

E-mail: [email protected]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan Stotts" <[email protected]>
To: "EVDL" <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2007 7:16 PM
Subject: [EVDL] Brass Bolts?


>I looked for copper bolts, but haven't found any yet(ever seen them?).
>
> When using buss bars to connect batteries(example):
>
> http://www.plasmaboyracing.com/graphics/stack.jpg
>
> Would it be better to use brass bolts instead of stainless steel bolts?
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>

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Brass is very soft. You're much better off with stainless steel . The bolt
should not be carrying the current anyway.

There is a large area of direct contact between the battery post and the
buss bar - that is what carries the current, so the slightly higher
conductivity of a brass bolt would not make any difference.

Phil


>From: "Ryan Stotts" <[email protected]>
>Reply-To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <[email protected]>
>To: EVDL <[email protected]>
>Subject: [EVDL] Brass Bolts?
>Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2007 21:16:24 -0500
>
>I looked for copper bolts, but haven't found any yet(ever seen them?).
>
>When using buss bars to connect batteries(example):
>
>http://www.plasmaboyracing.com/graphics/stack.jpg
>
>Would it be better to use brass bolts instead of stainless steel bolts?
>
>_______________________________________________
>For subscription options, see
>http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev

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Phil Marino wrote:

> There is a large area of direct contact between the battery post and the
> buss bar

It just doesn't look all that big too me:

http://www.gotbatteries.com/images/SLA/37L105S5.jpg

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Current flows on the outside of the conductor so if
you look at those posts you see that they are
obviously larger than the bolt.

--- Ryan Stotts <[email protected]> wrote:

> Phil Marino wrote:
>
> > There is a large area of direct contact between
> the battery post and the
> > buss bar
>
> It just doesn't look all that big too me:
>
> http://www.gotbatteries.com/images/SLA/37L105S5.jpg
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>


David D. Nelson
[email protected]



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Try silicon bronze bolts from marine hardware sources, also.

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I know nothing about this company, but they look pretty legit. A
Wisconsin manufacturer that makes copper bolts and ships nationwide.

http://www.pin.ca/premiere/

At a guess, they are not a retail place, but you might be able to ask
them to cull some off a line job, or ask them if one of their
downlines does retail.

--T

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You're thinking of the skin effect, which applies to high frequency AC.

David D. Nelson wrote:
> Current flows on the outside of the conductor so if
> you look at those posts you see that they are
> obviously larger than the bolt.
>

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And to any electric flow since electrons all repel
each other. What I meant by "outside" should have been
on/near the surface and very little, if any, inside.
The frequency doesn't have to be high.

--- Eric Poulsen <[email protected]> wrote:

> You're thinking of the skin effect, which applies to
> high frequency AC.
>
> David D. Nelson wrote:
> > Current flows on the outside of the conductor so
> if
> > you look at those posts you see that they are
> > obviously larger than the bolt.
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
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>


David D. Nelson
[email protected]

http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/1328


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Zeke Yewdall <[email protected]> wrote:
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skin_effect
>
> For DC it is negligible. For 60Hz, the outside 9mm of the wire
> conducts the current. For 10kHz, it's the outside 0.66mm or so. It's
> actually the interaction of the magnetic field and the electric field
> that cause it.

The problem is that, depending on your controller's capacitors, there
may be significant AC current at the switching frequency, 15 kHz,
where the skin effect does matter.

-Morgan

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Morgan LaMoore wrote:
> The problem is that, depending on your controller's capacitors, there
> may be significant AC current at the switching frequency, 15 kHz,
> where the skin effect does matter.

Except that the skin effect at 15 KHz is still negligible with the size
wire most EVs are wired with. Plus, the 15 KHz ripple current is a small
fraction of the DC current (20% or less).

When all is said and done, you won't find any practical difference in
the losses between solid #00, stranded #00, and dozens of strands of
separately insulated wires with an equivalent cross-section equal to #00
in an EV.

--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net

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