[ref
http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/Bruces-s-configuration-for-a-modern-ev-td3056342.html
]
I was a little surprized to see this post on the EVDL (I didn't ask him
to do it). For clarification I want to point-out that the configuration
Lawrence put in his post is a cut&paste exerpt from my website. That
configuration is not what I had before my 1985 S-10 Blazer was munched in
an unavoidable accident (15 years of accident free driving until then ...
:sniff: ).
It is a if-I-were-to-convert-another-vehicle dream-configuration I put
together years ago. Times have changed, I would likely alter that
configuration to match what is available off-the-shelf today.
If I read Lawrence's post correctly, he is trying to use my configuration
for a small sedan. That reverse engineering approach may not work as well
as a straight forward design.
My EV configuration critrea was/is suited to my fairly unique needs. For
those that have not met me in person, I am the large-economy-sized
Californian. Though before I took possession of my converted Blazer, I'd
borrow rabbit sized sedan conversions to put on display at EV shows and
talk EVs to the public. I really did not fit in them, thus driving
safely was a challenge.
In my younger days, I was mostly tall and could fold up enough to make it
work. But what I really needed was a larger vehicle to fit my physical
needs. I knew I could fit in a king-cab light truck or small SUV type of
vehicle.
So, I 'had to' choose the less efficent truck or suv type of vehicle. I
was resolved to not being a racing member of NEDRA, but a lead-sled
driver of an EV that fit my body type and could carry all my chargers.
Fast recharging was more my interest/forte than fast racing.
[I know PbSO4, but bow to others on the EVDL that know Li-ion much
better than I. I request their corrections be posted on this thread.]
(IMHO) But, if I were to do a sedan conversion with a Li-ion pack
-an 8" DC motor would still not provide regen, where as an AC motor/
controller would.
-I would also use a high voltage pack to have less IR loss.
-any chargers being used would have to be compatable with the BMS
(battery management system) selected. All U.S. EVs should have a
110VAC 1Kw and a 220VAC 6Kw charging ability to be able to recharge
off a regular overnight outlet (Nema 5-20) and or a level 2 power
source (14-50, AVCON, J-1772). Power inlets should always be in front.
-No matter what your EV is, LLR tires and a link-10 type of meter are must.
-A 45 amp DC2DC may not be needed as a sedan may not be as wasteful as
a SUV. I would measure the 12V current draw with all applicances on
(lights, wipers, heater, etc.) and also factor-in the 12V current draw
from any AC inverter and or hi-tech devices you might have.
My 50 mile PbSO4 wet-cell pack took less than an hour to charge to 80%
using all six chargers. At higher charge current rates, I could afford to
boil off some water, disconnect and hit the road again. On long trips I
did not do a full pack recharge until the end of the day while I was
sleeping.
The Li-ion pack's BMS will decide when to taper the charge current
according to SOC and or pack temperature. There is no water that can be
boiled off with a Li-ion pack. You can't just push your Li-ion pack like
you could a PbSO4 wet-cell pack. Li-ion pack charging equipment and
charging times will be different when compared to old-school PbSO4
wet-cell chemistry.
So you see, looking at my old dream-configuration may not be applicable
to your Li-ion sedan's needs. You might want to check the EValbum
vehicles for a succesful Li-ion pack sedan design.
-Bruce {EVangel} Parmenter
brucedp.150m.com
_______________________________________________
| REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
| Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
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http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/Bruces-s-configuration-for-a-modern-ev-td3056342.html
]
I was a little surprized to see this post on the EVDL (I didn't ask him
to do it). For clarification I want to point-out that the configuration
Lawrence put in his post is a cut&paste exerpt from my website. That
configuration is not what I had before my 1985 S-10 Blazer was munched in
an unavoidable accident (15 years of accident free driving until then ...
:sniff: ).
It is a if-I-were-to-convert-another-vehicle dream-configuration I put
together years ago. Times have changed, I would likely alter that
configuration to match what is available off-the-shelf today.
If I read Lawrence's post correctly, he is trying to use my configuration
for a small sedan. That reverse engineering approach may not work as well
as a straight forward design.
My EV configuration critrea was/is suited to my fairly unique needs. For
those that have not met me in person, I am the large-economy-sized
Californian. Though before I took possession of my converted Blazer, I'd
borrow rabbit sized sedan conversions to put on display at EV shows and
talk EVs to the public. I really did not fit in them, thus driving
safely was a challenge.
In my younger days, I was mostly tall and could fold up enough to make it
work. But what I really needed was a larger vehicle to fit my physical
needs. I knew I could fit in a king-cab light truck or small SUV type of
vehicle.
So, I 'had to' choose the less efficent truck or suv type of vehicle. I
was resolved to not being a racing member of NEDRA, but a lead-sled
driver of an EV that fit my body type and could carry all my chargers.
Fast recharging was more my interest/forte than fast racing.
[I know PbSO4, but bow to others on the EVDL that know Li-ion much
better than I. I request their corrections be posted on this thread.]
(IMHO) But, if I were to do a sedan conversion with a Li-ion pack
-an 8" DC motor would still not provide regen, where as an AC motor/
controller would.
-I would also use a high voltage pack to have less IR loss.
-any chargers being used would have to be compatable with the BMS
(battery management system) selected. All U.S. EVs should have a
110VAC 1Kw and a 220VAC 6Kw charging ability to be able to recharge
off a regular overnight outlet (Nema 5-20) and or a level 2 power
source (14-50, AVCON, J-1772). Power inlets should always be in front.
-No matter what your EV is, LLR tires and a link-10 type of meter are must.
-A 45 amp DC2DC may not be needed as a sedan may not be as wasteful as
a SUV. I would measure the 12V current draw with all applicances on
(lights, wipers, heater, etc.) and also factor-in the 12V current draw
from any AC inverter and or hi-tech devices you might have.
My 50 mile PbSO4 wet-cell pack took less than an hour to charge to 80%
using all six chargers. At higher charge current rates, I could afford to
boil off some water, disconnect and hit the road again. On long trips I
did not do a full pack recharge until the end of the day while I was
sleeping.
The Li-ion pack's BMS will decide when to taper the charge current
according to SOC and or pack temperature. There is no water that can be
boiled off with a Li-ion pack. You can't just push your Li-ion pack like
you could a PbSO4 wet-cell pack. Li-ion pack charging equipment and
charging times will be different when compared to old-school PbSO4
wet-cell chemistry.
So you see, looking at my old dream-configuration may not be applicable
to your Li-ion sedan's needs. You might want to check the EValbum
vehicles for a succesful Li-ion pack sedan design.
-Bruce {EVangel} Parmenter
brucedp.150m.com
_______________________________________________
| REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
| Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
| UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
| OTHER HELP: http://evdl.org/help/
| OPTIONS: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
