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[EVDL] Bruces's configuration for a modern ev.

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Bruce has been around the EV world for a long time. He has sacrificed range for quick charging and that's a good strategy. Looking at his configuration below. The same would fit in a Chevy Sprint. However as a modification an 8 inch motor. 100 ah lithium pack. If you did this you would have a fairly long range ev. The 100 ah pack would cost twice what the 2200 pack would but in the Sprint you would get the same or maybe twice the useable range if you consider the weight savings in both the vehicle body and sheer lead weight. Also the lithium pack can be taken down futher without damage to the pack. So for maybe 12k you could have a lets say a 1994 Chevy Sprint/Ford Festiva/Toyota Starlet/Suburu Justy....etc that would keep up with John Waylands Blue Meanie, charge fairly quickly and beat out Bruces's Blazer in efficiency. However if you were involved in an accident you might not fair as well as the Blazer. Lawrence Rhodes....

a 2005 Chevrolet Blazer 2WD Xtreme with a 5 speed manual transmission
-a 156VDC PbSO4 wet cell pack using US2200's
-Motomaster 50W Battery Warmers for the PbSO4 wet cell batteries
-a 9" Advanced DC motor
-a Zilla Z1K-HV 1000 Amp motor controller. But a Zilla is not available, then a LogiSystems 120-156 Volt 1000 Amp motor controller
-a PFC-40 charger (for 6KW high power / public AVCON charging)
-six Soneil 2416SRF chargers: 115/230 VAC input, 24v 8a output, one Soneil 1212SR charger: 115/230 VAC input, 12v 5a output, and one Soneil 1205SR charger: 90-264 VAC input, 12V 3Amp, all of them across the 156VDC pack (for low power charging at home or work)
-four Low Rolling Resistance (LLR) tires: Michelin Energy Saver A/S, or Bridgestone Ecopia EP-02. Original Equipment Size 235/70-15.
-Link-10 e-meter with its own DC to DC isolator
-Iota 45 amp DC-DC Converter powered off the main pack to keep the auxiliary 12V (PbSO4 U1) battery charged while driving

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I was a little surprized to see this post on the EVDL (I didn't ask him
to do it). For clarification I want to point-out that the configuration
Lawrence put in his post is a cut&paste exerpt from my website. That
configuration is not what I had before my 1985 S-10 Blazer was munched in
an unavoidable accident (15 years of accident free driving until then ...
:sniff: ).

It is a if-I-were-to-convert-another-vehicle dream-configuration I put
together years ago. Times have changed, I would likely alter that
configuration to match what is available off-the-shelf today.

If I read Lawrence's post correctly, he is trying to use my configuration
for a small sedan. That reverse engineering approach may not work as well
as a straight forward design.

My EV configuration critrea was/is suited to my fairly unique needs. For
those that have not met me in person, I am the large-economy-sized
Californian. Though before I took possession of my converted Blazer, I'd
borrow rabbit sized sedan conversions to put on display at EV shows and
talk EVs to the public. I really did not fit in them, thus driving
safely was a challenge.

In my younger days, I was mostly tall and could fold up enough to make it
work. But what I really needed was a larger vehicle to fit my physical
needs. I knew I could fit in a king-cab light truck or small SUV type of

So, I 'had to' choose the less efficent truck or suv type of vehicle. I
was resolved to not being a racing member of NEDRA, but a lead-sled
driver of an EV that fit my body type and could carry all my chargers.
Fast recharging was more my interest/forte than fast racing.

[I know PbSO4, but bow to others on the EVDL that know Li-ion much
better than I. I request their corrections be posted on this thread.]

(IMHO) But, if I were to do a sedan conversion with a Li-ion pack

-an 8" DC motor would still not provide regen, where as an AC motor/
controller would.

-I would also use a high voltage pack to have less IR loss.

-any chargers being used would have to be compatable with the BMS
(battery management system) selected. All U.S. EVs should have a
110VAC 1Kw and a 220VAC 6Kw charging ability to be able to recharge
off a regular overnight outlet (Nema 5-20) and or a level 2 power
source (14-50, AVCON, J-1772). Power inlets should always be in front.

-No matter what your EV is, LLR tires and a link-10 type of meter are must.

-A 45 amp DC2DC may not be needed as a sedan may not be as wasteful as
a SUV. I would measure the 12V current draw with all applicances on
(lights, wipers, heater, etc.) and also factor-in the 12V current draw
from any AC inverter and or hi-tech devices you might have.

My 50 mile PbSO4 wet-cell pack took less than an hour to charge to 80%
using all six chargers. At higher charge current rates, I could afford to
boil off some water, disconnect and hit the road again. On long trips I
did not do a full pack recharge until the end of the day while I was

The Li-ion pack's BMS will decide when to taper the charge current
according to SOC and or pack temperature. There is no water that can be
boiled off with a Li-ion pack. You can't just push your Li-ion pack like
you could a PbSO4 wet-cell pack. Li-ion pack charging equipment and
charging times will be different when compared to old-school PbSO4
wet-cell chemistry.

So you see, looking at my old dream-configuration may not be applicable
to your Li-ion sedan's needs. You might want to check the EValbum
vehicles for a succesful Li-ion pack sedan design.

-Bruce {EVangel} Parmenter

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