[EVDL] Car CAN move (was Car won't move!)
666
3
Hallelujah!
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Roger Stockton wrote:
> James Massey wrote:
>
>> The KSI is very low current, so what I'd do is use a small
>> (size of a matchbox or a little bigger) industrial relay.
>
> A popular relay for this application is the P&B KUEP series. The SPST
> vresion is rated 10A @ 150VDC; DPST is 5A @ 150VDC. All of the KU
> series are rated 0.5A @ 120VDC, but the KUEP is the best choice
> since it
> has magnetic blowouts. It is a standard plug-in style relay. The
> only
> 12V coil version Digikey seems to have in stock is the DPST:
>
> <http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?
> name=PB840-ND>
Wow, I thought I was the only person who used such an over-rated
relay to handle the ksi input of a Curtis controller.
> A little "higher-tech" (and less costly ;^) is to go to a reed relay,
> such as this one from Digikey that is rated to switch 200VDC @ 0.5A
> and
> to carry 1.0A:
>
> <http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?
> name=306-1024-
> ND>
Now that strikes me as a good idea. I did it the way I did because I
had no idea what the power draw of ksi "could" (worst case) be. I was
quite confident that it wasn't going to be near 10 amps!
Does anyone actually know what the ksi draw is for Curtis
controllers? Does it vary based on model (1221B, 1221C, 1231C) and/or
operating voltage?
Lastly, I want to remind everyone with a Curtis controller to remove
all power from it and let the input caps fully discharge before
playing with the ksi connection. Just a little bump of pack voltage
to a pot box connection can instantly ruin a good Curtis controller.
That would be a sad way to send any EV controller to its grave - even
a Cursit(I am a Curtis controller owner too!)
Paul Gooch
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