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Dave,
Heres my ev.
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/736
I have a 1200 amp raptor I run at 156 volts.
I use an SW200 + @ - side contactor, one each,2-
250amp dc breakers in parallel. I have had no problems
with this setup for over two months and 1000+ miles. I
have monitored the contactors very closely, making
sure their not getting hot. Even after several 1200amp
pulls they are barely warm to the touch.
hope this helps,
Jeff McCabe

--- [email protected] wrote:

> I am planning on having peak currents of 1000 Amps.
> Where can I get
> Contactors, Fuses and Circuit Breakers that can
> handle that?
>
> Thank you,
>
> Dave Delman
> 1981 Electric DeLorean Project
> electricdelorean.com
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's
> new at http://www.aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>

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Dave,
Circuit Breakers visit John Drake the Solar Seller:
http://www.solarseller.com/
Scroll half way down the main page to #45 UL Listed DC Breakers up to 125 volts
Then scroll half way down and find this:
Airpax model # JLM-1-30353-3, 250 amp d.c. circuit breaker rated
at up to 160 volts d.c.

I can regularly pull 1000 amps through this breaker for several seconds for multiple runs before it gets hot and trips and needs
to cool down. I run two of these in series (but mechanically ganged together) to for a 320V rating. the price is right at $35
each. I bought a six pack when he had a deal for $20 each. They seem the same construction, and a better alternative to $100
priced GJ-H3 series also listed on that page.

The Kilovac "Bubba" EV500 http://relays.tycoelectronics.com/datasheets/ev500.pdf can break 1000A at 270Vdc for an approximate
cycle life of 30 cycles. The only reason it would have to break under load is in an emergency and I would hop eyou wouldn't have
emergencies numbering in the tens for the life of the vehicle. Tyco quoted me a price direct for these at $1600 each. I have
been quoted by resellers prices between that and $3300 each. To spendy for the average racer. A good alternative and in some
ways better than the Albright SW200 are the KiloVac LEV200 http://relays.tycoelectronics.com/datasheets/LEV200_ds_9-1773439-1.pdf
has the same cycle life as the EV500 at 1000A and 270V and they can be had for $90 at http://www.evsource.com/tls_relays.php .
Thay also list the Albright SW200 at $121 which isn't to aweful of a price.

Appropriate size EV fuses (for racing too) can also be found at http://www.evsource.com/tls_fuses.php to give you an idea of which
fuses are recommended and used for the different levels of Zilla power.

Hope this helps.
Mike,
Anchorage, Ak.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]On
> Behalf Of [email protected]
> Sent: Friday, September 21, 2007 7:27 PM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: [EVDL] Contactors, Fuses and Circuit Breakers
>
>
> I am planning on having peak currents of 1000 Amps. Where can I get
> Contactors, Fuses and Circuit Breakers that can handle that?
>
> Thank you,
>
> Dave Delman
> 1981 Electric DeLorean Project
> electricdelorean.com
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>

_______________________________________________
For subscription options, see
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev

 

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Ian,

So does that mean I need to run three SW200s in parallel to handle 1000 amps?

Hi Dave,

Contactors: Kilovac Bubbas are probably your best option, rated to
600A. White Zombie uses two of them in parallel, if I remember
correctly. But Albright SW200 type (400A) contactors should also be
fine and are a lot cheaper.

Fuses: I see evparts.com has 800A fuses for a decent price, otherwise
search for "Shawmut" on eBay, might be able to pick up a bargain.

Circuit breakers big enough for high powered EVs are really hard to
find and expensive. Heinemann GJ1P are the ones I'm familiar with
(search eBay for GJ1P), but all the variants above 400A are only
rated to 65VDC! You could run several in series for higher voltage,
but even one is pretty expensive.. Anyone know of any other options?

-Ian





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Hello Dave,

I like heavy super duty industrial open type contactors that can be adjusted
for drop out and pull in of the contact pads. Can be completely overhaul
and still get parts for it no matter how old it is. The type of contactor
is from CableForm Inc which is a 600 amp continuous running and have a peak
current rating of 2000 amps. You can stack up more conductor straps in
increase the ampere. The contact buttons are mounted on a 2 inch long by
1.5 inch high by 1 inch wide block of brass where you can mounted several
large 4/0 or larger wired terminals. This contactor is mounted on a
insulated chassis board.

You can get line voltage coils, meaning that the coil can be operated at the
voltage of the battery pack. You can adjust the coil voltage size, where
when you battery pack is at the lowest limit your controller is set, and for
some reason the controller does not drop out, the controller will then drop
out if you use the correct coil voltage. If you do not want this feature,
than use a separate 12 voltage source.

I am using a 180 volt contactor coil, which is control by a Square D glass
relay by the Zilla. It is best to use this type of relay to control a
contactor with a 12 volt coil, because the inductive kick can take out a
controller driver circuits which has done to some people on this list. I
use a NTE4933 Zener Overvoltage Transient Suppressor Bidirection across the
contactor coils which suppresses the inductive surge.

The frame size is a standard industrial size, meaning 50 years from now a
new contactor will fit in the same location you install back in 1950. Same
as a circuit breaker for a house that was install back then, you can get a
circuit breaker that will still fit the same panel frame.

As for the fuses, I have use Bussman Limitron bolt fuses that mount on
insulated stand offs. For 30 years I ran this 400 amp continuous rated fuse
with a peak AIC 250,000 amps. I can pull 600 amps for 3 or more minutes
going up a 2 mile 7 percent grade hill at 60 mph pulling a 8000 lb EV using
300 AH cobalt batteries.

If you go to the Bussman fuse WEB site, It will give you the range of
interrupting ampere per time. I think it was still several seconds at 7000
amps.

Look at your controller specifications for the recommended fuse size. My
1000 amp Zilla recommended a semi-conductor fuse, which is design to protect
solid state devices. I use a 400 amp semi-conductor fuse, but they do not
have the high AIC rating as of the Limitron type fuse. These fuses will blow
if you have a short circuit, but also does have a long over current delay
time.

If you do not worry about cost, these industrial protection devices can cost
as or more than a controller and they are larger than the throw away enclose
contactors.

Roland


----- Original Message -----
From: <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2007 9:27 PM
Subject: [EVDL] Contactors, Fuses and Circuit Breakers


> I am planning on having peak currents of 1000 Amps. Where can I get
> Contactors, Fuses and Circuit Breakers that can handle that?
>
> Thank you,
>
> Dave Delman
> 1981 Electric DeLorean Project
> electricdelorean.com
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's new at
> http://www.aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>

_______________________________________________
For subscription options, see
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev

 

[EVDL List]

[email protected] wrote:
> I am planning on having peak currents of 1000 Amps. Where can I get
> Contactors, Fuses and Circuit Breakers that can handle that?

You'll also want to know (or have a pretty good guess) the average
current. Most wiring, switches, connectors, contactors, etc. are sized
for the average current rather than the peak current.

I've found old fork lifts to be an excellent source of parts. They are
somewhat large and heavy, but considerably overbuilt and often very cheap.

Depending on what you need, ordinary electrical supply houses have a lot
of parts. For those cases where you need DC rated parts (fuses,
contactors) they are available from EVparts and other online sources.

--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net

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The SW200 will handle 1200A for 25 seconds, and 1000A for ~50 seconds. You shouldn't need more than that unless you are really
truly able to continuously pull 1000A.

Mike,
Anchorage, Ak.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]On
> Behalf Of [email protected]
> Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2007 4:06 AM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] Contactors, Fuses and Circuit Breakers
>
>
>
>
> Ian,
>
> So does that mean I need to run three SW200s in parallel to handle 1000 amps?
>
> Hi Dave,
>
> Contactors: Kilovac Bubbas are probably your best option, rated to
> 600A. White Zombie uses two of them in parallel, if I remember
> correctly. But Albright SW200 type (400A) contactors should also be
> fine and are a lot cheaper.
>
> Fuses: I see evparts.com has 800A fuses for a decent price, otherwise
> search for "Shawmut" on eBay, might be able to pick up a bargain.
>
> Circuit breakers big enough for high powered EVs are really hard to
> find and expensive. Heinemann GJ1P are the ones I'm familiar with
> (search eBay for GJ1P), but all the variants above 400A are only
> rated to 65VDC! You could run several in series for higher voltage,
> but even one is pretty expensive.. Anyone know of any other options?
>
> -Ian
>
>
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev

_______________________________________________
For subscription options, see
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev

 

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[email protected] wrote:
> So does that mean I need to run three SW200s in parallel to handle
> 1000 amps?

It's generally a bad idea to parallel switches, connectors, contactors,
fuses, circuit breakers, and other very low resistance devices like
this. Their contact resistance is so low that trivial differences in the
wiring and connections to them lead to large current differences.

If you really must do it, then use relatively long connecting wires to
each, so that the resistance of the wire provides a stabilizing effect
to force the current to divide more equally.

--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net

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