Cor van de Water <
[email protected]> wrote:
> Just make sure that the furnace fan is not switched with an AC switch or
> small relay
> but *if* it is switched, to use a decent rated DC contactor.
> Otherwise you will just create fireworks (arcs).
>
> Success,
>
> Cor van de Water
> Director HW & Systems Architecture Group
> Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com
> Email:
[email protected] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
> Skype: cor_van_de_water IM:
[email protected]
> Tel: +1 408 383 7626 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
> Tel: +91 (040)23117400 x203 XoIP: +31877841130
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
[email protected] [mailto:
[email protected]] On
> Behalf Of Dennis Miles
> Sent: Thursday, January 27, 2011 10:44 PM
> To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] Efficiency of rotary inverters
>
> John,
> Why don't you use a Universal (Brush type) or PM Direct Current
> motor and run it from the battery pack directly? 96 volts is close
> enough to 100 for most simple DC motors to run very well with. Sure you
> will have to run a separate pair of wires (size #12 or #10 if a long
> distance.) to the battery and fuse it at 20 A with a slow blow fuse at
> the battery. (Or at the input from the battery to the inverter if that
> is a more convenient location to connect to.) A number of EV parts
> suppliers offer suitable motors and if they are reading perhaps they
> will contact you with suggestions, prices, and delivery availability.
> Similar to motors used to power power steering or an Air Cond.
> Compressor, PM or shunt wound for good internal speed regulation won't
> need a control except an on/off relay! Then without that heavy load the
> Inverter can provide the service you need for everything else. I would
> use the Battery directly for all the lighting with regular old
> incandescent light bulbs to eliminate conversion losses in the inverter
> makes them more efficient than compact florescent bulbs almost. you
> might want to be sure of having a grid powered DC source to keep the
> heat working if the wind turbine fails in a blizzard ? Or not?
>
> Regards,
> *Dennis Lee Miles* (Director) *E.V.T.I. inc*.
> *www.E-V-T-I-Inc.COM <http://www.e-v-t-i-inc.com/> *(Adviser)*
> EVTI-EVAEducation Chapter
> *
> ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
> The "Stone Age" didn't end because they ran out of Stones;
> It ended because they started using their Brains !
> +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
> On Thu, Jan 27, 2011 at 10:22 AM, John McManus <
[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> > I have a wind turbine with a 96v battery bank and a 2k inverter. The
> > inverter shuts off on safety before the amperage drw of my furnace fan
>
> > dropps ( 16= start, 6 run).
> > I have tried a PSC motor , a 5 speed motor and a super eficient fan
> > motor with no sucess. I'm looking for a 1/4 hp capacitor start motor
> to try.
> > Besides buying a 96 volt 3k inverter, does anyone have any ideas.
> > Other than that, my electric lawnmower (ev album-Nova Scotia) charged
> > on solar panels all summer and cut 75 hours of grass. My Suzuki Carry
> > mini truch sailed into Halifax yesterday and the conversion will soon
> begin.
> >
> > Thanks:
> > John McManus
> >
> > On Thu, Jan 27, 2011 at 4:01 AM, Lee Hart <
[email protected]>
> wrote:
> >
> > > On 1/26/2011 7:45 PM, Chris Zach wrote:
> > > > So does anyone know about what the standby (spinning) load of a
> > > > motor generator would be? The Elec trak has a 2kw pack in it now,
> > > > and a 9a rotary inverter if needed. My main load would be the
> > > > fireplace fans (40
> > > > watts) and a few lights (say another 60 watts for 4 15w CFLs). So
> > > > about 100w.
> > >
> > > It's going to vary a lot, depending on the type and quality. The
> > > cheap ones are indeed a separate motor and generator. Their
> > > efficiency isn't all that good, as it's the product of the
> > > efficiency of the motor and the generator. 80% x 80% = 64% for
> > > example. At light loads it only gets worse.
> > >
> > > The other type is a rotary converter, which has a single armature
> > > with two sets of windings; one for input and one for output. They
> > > have about half the losses, so about 80% efficient at full load.
> > >
> > > Occasionally, you'll find an NON isolated rotary converter. It has
> > > just one winding, with taps for input and output. These work like an
>
> > > autotransformer, i.e. they are at their best when the input and
> > > output voltages are the same (120vdc in, 120vac out). Under these
> > > conditions, efficiency exceeds 90%.
> > >
> > > To guess at the light-load losses, assume you will still have about
> > > half of the full-load loss. For example, suppose it's 80% efficient
> > > at full load (1000w in, 800w out, 200w losses). At light load,
> > > assume the losses drop to 100w; so the no-load power consumption is
> > > still 100w. The 1/10th load efficiency is 80w out + 100w losses =
> > > 180w in, which is 100w/180w = 55% efficient.
> > >
> > > --
> > > Lee A. Hart | Ring the bells that still can ring
> > > 814 8th Ave N | Forget the perfect offering
> > > Sartell MN 56377 | There is a crack in everything
> > > leeahart earthlink.net | That's how the light gets in -- Leonard
> > > Cohen
> > >
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