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70 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I re named the subject as I didn't see any fix's for the melted battery post.
Over the years I've tried lots of ways , like making a form and
pouring melted lead in , ( tricky to get the lead the right temp as to
hot will melt everything and not hot enough it will not get a good
connection). Taking it to a battery shop can be to expensive to
justify fixing an old battery . My latest fix is easy , cheep and some
what safe to do . Some of the smaller Hawker batteries 1200's and
925's have a brass automotive post that bolts on to the tops to there
batteries . I saved these when I recycled my old Hawkers batteries .
They have a small Allen bolt inside which you have to get out ( a
little work here,) . Now you have a nice brass automotive post with a
flat bottom , which can easily be tinned . Cut off what's left of
your battery post so you have a flat , clean surface , file if
necessary and put on solder past, , this part of your battery MOST BE
VERY CLEAN and some what flat . Next take your Hawker brass
automotive post ( be sure to use a positive for positive and neg of
neg ) and tin the bottom , set the brass post on top of the clean ,
flat filed battery post and heat just the top of the brass post till
the solder melts and flows on the bottom and flows out on the flat
filed battery post ( a little care here as when the solder milts the
brass post will float and slide around battery post, have a wet rag
around the battery top to keep form melting plastic ) . This worked so
well that I feel its as good as new and never had a problem with that
battery post again.
I'm not home now so can't get you any of these Hawker terminals,
but somebody on the list should have them or get them from the Hawker
battery company .

Steve Clunn


--
Tomorrows Ride TODAY !
Visit our shop web page at: www.Greenshedconversions.com

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Registered
Joined
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70 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
That should work, using a brass post solder-lead to the existing base of a
lead post. The only modification I would do is tap the lead base and brass
post for a 5/16 inch brass threaded rod and mechanical connect and the
solder-lead method.

I been doing post remolding since the 70's. Instead of using the standard
auto post molds, I using a heavy duty post molds that are all positive in
size with a enlarge base plate form.

Use a leading acl/oxy torch that has a long pencil thin flame that is about
4 to 5 inches long. The standard No. 1 or 2 torch head flame is too short
and will blow out when the tip gets too close to the post mold.

I use a welding work holding tool that puts down pressure of the post mold
on to the base of the battery or the lead could float the post mold and run
out. The holding tool has a magnetic base with a clamp to hold any tool.

After the post mold and tools are in place, you cover the top of the battery
with wet towels. Preheat the inside of the post mold and battery lead base
just to the point where the leads start to pool, then you insert the pure
100% lead wire into the flame which then adds and built up the new post.
You do not stop at any time, you keep adding lead until you get to the top
of the post mold and just a little more to form a curve top.

The 100% lead wire comes in either sticks that you can still get for leading
body work or metal roof work or you get the wire lead in 1/8 to 1/4 inch
diameter from fish and tackle places.

Roland


----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Clunn" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, September 06, 2010 5:09 AM
Subject: [EVDL] Fixing melted battery post


> I re named the subject as I didn't see any fix's for the melted battery
> post.
> Over the years I've tried lots of ways , like making a form and
> pouring melted lead in , ( tricky to get the lead the right temp as to
> hot will melt everything and not hot enough it will not get a good
> connection). Taking it to a battery shop can be to expensive to
> justify fixing an old battery . My latest fix is easy , cheep and some
> what safe to do . Some of the smaller Hawker batteries 1200's and
> 925's have a brass automotive post that bolts on to the tops to there
> batteries . I saved these when I recycled my old Hawkers batteries .
> They have a small Allen bolt inside which you have to get out ( a
> little work here,) . Now you have a nice brass automotive post with a
> flat bottom , which can easily be tinned . Cut off what's left of
> your battery post so you have a flat , clean surface , file if
> necessary and put on solder past, , this part of your battery MOST BE
> VERY CLEAN and some what flat . Next take your Hawker brass
> automotive post ( be sure to use a positive for positive and neg of
> neg ) and tin the bottom , set the brass post on top of the clean ,
> flat filed battery post and heat just the top of the brass post till
> the solder melts and flows on the bottom and flows out on the flat
> filed battery post ( a little care here as when the solder milts the
> brass post will float and slide around battery post, have a wet rag
> around the battery top to keep form melting plastic ) . This worked so
> well that I feel its as good as new and never had a problem with that
> battery post again.
> I'm not home now so can't get you any of these Hawker terminals,
> but somebody on the list should have them or get them from the Hawker
> battery company .
>
> Steve Clunn
>
>
> --
> Tomorrows Ride TODAY !
> Visit our shop web page at: www.Greenshedconversions.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> | REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
> | Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
> | UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
> | OTHER HELP: http://evdl.org/help/
> | OPTIONS: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>

_______________________________________________
| REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
| Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
| UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
| OTHER HELP: http://evdl.org/help/
| OPTIONS: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
 
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