Chuck Hursch <[email protected]
> gottdi wrote:
> > Urethane will transmit more noise and be stiffer to better handle the
> > weight while helping keep every thing in alignment. I agree with the
> > poster about support cross braces for the body both front and rear. Any
> > of support will be of great help. The purpose of Heavy Duty struts will
> > to keep the body from sagging under the weight causing the body to become
> > out of alignment with the steering components causing wear. If it sags
> > with the Heavy duty struts either the struts are not heavy duty enough or
> > your just too damn heavy with LEAD batteries. How much weight in
> > are you carrying on board your little car? Remember these little cars are
> > not designed to carry much weight. Your car needs to sit level. Good
> > with strong springs will help.
> When I've measured the car at the tops of the wheel arches to the
> ground, the car actually sits just a tad higher than as a stock diesel.
> I'll measure this every few years or so. And I believe the F/R
> heights are at about the same proportion as a diesel. BUT, those diesel
> #s were probably on old springs and struts (I had the car as a diesel
> for only three months).
> My understanding is that the EA VoltsRabbit kit was designed to keep the
> total weight under GVWR. The Rabbits have quite a wide spread between
> curb weight and GVWR. 2000-lb stock diesel Rabbit. 2940-lb VoltsRabbit
> (these were the actual weights on the scales) with 16 US-2300 (US-125 @
> 65-lb apiece) battery pack. GVWR is about 2900-lb, but of course that
> changes with upgraded components. When I hop in, though, at ~180-190lb,
> then the car will be over GVWR (the 2900-lb GVWR). With this last pack,
> now US2200 @ 60-lb each, I've dropped 60-80lb.
> I've noticed that these Rabbit and Golfs (I'm talking stock gas/diesel)
> do tend to have more nose-up than many other cars. So be it. I like
> nose-down a little more.
> My mechanic says he could custom build a front brace for me across those
> strut towers. I've thought about it. I don't know what a brace across
> the rear towers would look like, probably the same deal more or less
> straight across, which on most days with the rear seat back sitting up
> would be ok, but on the odd day I have a big box to put in there with
> the rear seat folded down, would stop the show. Also would probably
> have to modify the hold-down straps for the rear battery box to open the
> lid fully.
> > Have you looked at the underside of the car to be sure you don't have
> > cracking of the unibody at the front suspension area and maybe the rear.
> > had an old rabbit once that had a large crack that caused my front be out
> > alignment and would make my braking spongey. When I found the problem it
> > been welded up once and had cracked again. The car was unsafe to drive. I
> > ditched it and took all the good stuff out and put it into an newer one
> > nicer one that I had picked up for $200 bucks. It had a bad engine. So
> > for that kind of stuff too. Cracks can be hard to see. Your car should be
> > and level if all is good. Too much weight may just negate any of the work
> > you have done.
> The car was last on the shop hoist about three years ago. Everytime
> it's been up so where I can get underneath it, a crack has never been seen.
> I believe the alignment has always been this way as a conversion. But I
> may dig back into the older records from the mid-90s and double check
> the alignment #s.
> It's quite possible that the issue is from an accident. When I was
> shopping around for a place to have the car painted and minor body work
> done back in late '96, one shop did note clamp marks on the seams on the
> underside of the body, indicating the car had been realigned in a
> bodyshop after an accident. It's conceivable that if there was actually
> an accident, and say the car was pushed against a curb (or driven
> against a curb), that could have bent the rear axle beam a bit. Just
> speculation, though.
> > Go Lithium. Lighter in weight and you get to go further per charge.
> Lithium is enticing; however $$$ and lack of personal shop facilities
> preclude going down that route. I can handle some jobs here at the apt
> carport (even put in a new pack in early 2009), and chassis jobs are
> mostly handled by a mechanic I finally found to help me with this car;
> the person who helped me build this car in 1994 and whose garage I
> rented is no longer involved with EVs and is not available for work on
> this car, and the other person I worked with lived a goodly distance
> away and passed away a year and a half ago. And cost/mi is still lowest
> with flooded lead-acid. So "yes" on lithium, but "no" can't do it.
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