Dan Baker wrote:
> my first EV...
It looks great, Dan! Simple and straightforward so it actually got done,
yet with enough of the details right so it really works. Congratulations!
Comments in case you're in the mood to keep tinkering: I wonder if you
could improve speed and reduce power by adding a prow to each row of
barrels, and a semi-circular sheet of plastic over the bottom of them to
smooth the flow.
On speed control. The simplest method is to add switches or contactors
so you can switch the two motors either in series or parallel. Parallel
puts 12v to each for full speed. Series makes each motor run at half
speed. This is much more efficient than using resistors for speed
control, and doesn't create any ultrasonic noises like a PWM controller.
--
Lee A. Hart | Ring the bells that still can ring
814 8th Ave N | Forget the perfect offering
Sartell MN 56377 | There is a crack in everything
leeahart earthlink.net | That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
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[EVDL] Hello/ new to the scene/ my wooden electric boat!
Hello,
First of all sorry if I mispost this somehow, newbie to list alert!
I found this list after I finished my first EV, however I definitely want to
share my build and learn from everyone too on theirs. I'm hoping this won't
be my last EV, thoughts are already swirling for my next one
Back to my first EV. Some history: I live on a small lake just outside
Halifax, NS, Canada. We have some boats- canoe, dingy, paddleboat and a
couple of seadoos. They are all fun however I wanted a larger craft for
slow cruises where I could take 6-7 people out on and cruise the lake, fish
etc. The backside of the lake is now home to a nature reserve and has some
really majestic views that I wanted to show friends and family. My wife and
I love the seadoos however they are noisy, polluting beasts which I'm
constantly wrenching on (would love to EV one of them). You can't take a
seadoo for fishing or anyone else with you without presuming that someone
is getting wet. Canoes and paddle boats tend to be dryer but also have cons
with speed and capacity. So I got the notion I wanted a pontoon boat,
seemed to fit my requirements However, costs were a concern as well as
getting into and out of the water. I have a boat launch which I made as
environmentally friendly as possible (washed pebble, minimal incursion into
the water, etc) however it is quite steep and a bit rocky below
the waterline. I can get seadoos and floating docks in and out but a
pontoon boat would surely have problems being launched and retrieved. So I
decided to build my own, a poor man's pontoon boat.
All in told it took me less that 6 weeks from start to a
cruising finish however I have been "accessorising" for a little while now.
Being under a budget (2000-2500 CAD) and some quick time lines, I didn't go
with EV components like controllers, multi volt EV motors and used as much
off the shelf components I could retrofit. For example the motors are 12V
duramax 32 lb thrust trolling that I mounted on the back and relocated the
tops (control section) to central console. I ran 6 gauge wire from the tops
to bottoms. I kept the voltage at 12 volts as not to electrocute anyone and
used fuses everywhere. The end result is a very simple drive line that
works surprisingly well. It also steers the boat through skid steering
(tank like control). Overall I'm extremely happy with the build and
everyone that has seen it asks a thousand questions. I've had a fishing
party on it already and have had countless evening tours, the 900 LED
lighting it up very well at night. It's near silence on the water allows me
to crawl up on wildlife (even they are curious of it) and I can't remember
having a quiet conversation on a boat at full throttle!
I have posted some pics on picassa. Build is here:
http://picasaweb.google.ca/vmdano/BoatBuild#
Some cruise pics are here: http://picasaweb.google.ca/vmdano/FireflyCruises
#
I have submitted a page to the evalbum but it hasn't been posted yet (not
sure why) but understand that these things take time. If anyone has any
questions I will be sure to answer as best and when possible, however be
prepared to answer my questions when I start reading your threads too!
Thank you,
Dan
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First of all sorry if I mispost this somehow, newbie to list alert!
I found this list after I finished my first EV, however I definitely want to
share my build and learn from everyone too on theirs. I'm hoping this won't
be my last EV, thoughts are already swirling for my next one
Back to my first EV. Some history: I live on a small lake just outside
Halifax, NS, Canada. We have some boats- canoe, dingy, paddleboat and a
couple of seadoos. They are all fun however I wanted a larger craft for
slow cruises where I could take 6-7 people out on and cruise the lake, fish
etc. The backside of the lake is now home to a nature reserve and has some
really majestic views that I wanted to show friends and family. My wife and
I love the seadoos however they are noisy, polluting beasts which I'm
constantly wrenching on (would love to EV one of them). You can't take a
seadoo for fishing or anyone else with you without presuming that someone
is getting wet. Canoes and paddle boats tend to be dryer but also have cons
with speed and capacity. So I got the notion I wanted a pontoon boat,
seemed to fit my requirements However, costs were a concern as well as
getting into and out of the water. I have a boat launch which I made as
environmentally friendly as possible (washed pebble, minimal incursion into
the water, etc) however it is quite steep and a bit rocky below
the waterline. I can get seadoos and floating docks in and out but a
pontoon boat would surely have problems being launched and retrieved. So I
decided to build my own, a poor man's pontoon boat.
All in told it took me less that 6 weeks from start to a
cruising finish however I have been "accessorising" for a little while now.
Being under a budget (2000-2500 CAD) and some quick time lines, I didn't go
with EV components like controllers, multi volt EV motors and used as much
off the shelf components I could retrofit. For example the motors are 12V
duramax 32 lb thrust trolling that I mounted on the back and relocated the
tops (control section) to central console. I ran 6 gauge wire from the tops
to bottoms. I kept the voltage at 12 volts as not to electrocute anyone and
used fuses everywhere. The end result is a very simple drive line that
works surprisingly well. It also steers the boat through skid steering
(tank like control). Overall I'm extremely happy with the build and
everyone that has seen it asks a thousand questions. I've had a fishing
party on it already and have had countless evening tours, the 900 LED
lighting it up very well at night. It's near silence on the water allows me
to crawl up on wildlife (even they are curious of it) and I can't remember
having a quiet conversation on a boat at full throttle!
I have posted some pics on picassa. Build is here:
http://picasaweb.google.ca/vmdano/BoatBuild#
Some cruise pics are here: http://picasaweb.google.ca/vmdano/FireflyCruises
#
I have submitted a page to the evalbum but it hasn't been posted yet (not
sure why) but understand that these things take time. If anyone has any
questions I will be sure to answer as best and when possible, however be
prepared to answer my questions when I start reading your threads too!
Thank you,
Dan
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1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Thanks everyone for the comments and ideas so far, so wished I had found
this site earlier!
To respond to everyone,
Bill:
Yes these would be excellent PM controllers, however they cost as much
or more than the motors (paid $100 each + tax for them at local store). I
suppose the controller is where most of the money goes. The motors were the
best price break per lb of thrust and unfortunately the next step up the
price went up considerably in the area I live in and shipping is costly on
these. Hopefully I will be up in Ontario in October and look at some 50lb
thrust that has a PM controller built in. I've seen them as as low as $189
up there. Of course the next step might be to go with a single motor
retrofitted to an old outboard bottom end (more traditional EV if one can
say that yet) with some cable or electric mounts. There are some high end
trolling motors that have GPS built in and can follow a programmed course.
The regen function might be cool as well, especially if I could use them to
part of the braking as well. I can currently stop the boat by reversing the
motors and it works fairly well about 10 ft from full speed (need to
measure). Once I ever get the solar panel built, it will put out 280 watts
in full sunshine. The motors I have been told consume a max of 410 watts
each. Since a leisure boat spends 99% of it's life parked the panel should
keep the batteries charged for weekend excursions. I think I have found a
way to build them but I need to find some tempered glass. I've seen others
just glue the cells face down(by their backs only) to the glass with a
corrosion free watertight silicone.
Rod:
Is that your boat with the "jungle theme"? If so yes that would be the
perfect size to convert. In fact if I could find someone to buy my "dock" I
would use the funds to retrofit one like that size for sure. You could even
keep the ICE and put the motors on each corner, have a hybrid!
Those Duffys are gorgeous!
Lee:
I've thought of putting something on the front barrels to smooth the flow
however I haven't found anything yet that is strong enough to take the odd
run a ground or hitting a rock. I'm gonna keep looking though, would be
nice to even try something experimental just to see how much of an
improvement there would be. The series/ parallel I have also thought about
(like wiring two subwoofers up in parallel to an amp) but wasn't sure if
damage would occur to the motors. However now that someone else has
suggested it means that my thoughts weren't completely crazy. Would I be
able to reduce/ increase power to the motors to steer? If not, I could save
this feature for straight line holeshots or surfboard steering Would
this increase speed, reduce load, or both?
Thank you everyone!
Dan
this site earlier!
To respond to everyone,
Bill:
Yes these would be excellent PM controllers, however they cost as much
or more than the motors (paid $100 each + tax for them at local store). I
suppose the controller is where most of the money goes. The motors were the
best price break per lb of thrust and unfortunately the next step up the
price went up considerably in the area I live in and shipping is costly on
these. Hopefully I will be up in Ontario in October and look at some 50lb
thrust that has a PM controller built in. I've seen them as as low as $189
up there. Of course the next step might be to go with a single motor
retrofitted to an old outboard bottom end (more traditional EV if one can
say that yet) with some cable or electric mounts. There are some high end
trolling motors that have GPS built in and can follow a programmed course.
The regen function might be cool as well, especially if I could use them to
part of the braking as well. I can currently stop the boat by reversing the
motors and it works fairly well about 10 ft from full speed (need to
measure). Once I ever get the solar panel built, it will put out 280 watts
in full sunshine. The motors I have been told consume a max of 410 watts
each. Since a leisure boat spends 99% of it's life parked the panel should
keep the batteries charged for weekend excursions. I think I have found a
way to build them but I need to find some tempered glass. I've seen others
just glue the cells face down(by their backs only) to the glass with a
corrosion free watertight silicone.
Rod:
Is that your boat with the "jungle theme"? If so yes that would be the
perfect size to convert. In fact if I could find someone to buy my "dock" I
would use the funds to retrofit one like that size for sure. You could even
keep the ICE and put the motors on each corner, have a hybrid!
Those Duffys are gorgeous!
Lee:
I've thought of putting something on the front barrels to smooth the flow
however I haven't found anything yet that is strong enough to take the odd
run a ground or hitting a rock. I'm gonna keep looking though, would be
nice to even try something experimental just to see how much of an
improvement there would be. The series/ parallel I have also thought about
(like wiring two subwoofers up in parallel to an amp) but wasn't sure if
damage would occur to the motors. However now that someone else has
suggested it means that my thoughts weren't completely crazy. Would I be
able to reduce/ increase power to the motors to steer? If not, I could save
this feature for straight line holeshots or surfboard steering
Wouldthis increase speed, reduce load, or both?
Thank you everyone!
Dan
Neat idea, Dan! That should give you a lot of pleasure, for sure!
Joseph H. Strubhar
Web: www.gremcoinc.com
E-mail: [email protected]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Baker" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, August 28, 2010 8:54 AM
Subject: [EVDL] Hello/ new to the scene/ my wooden electric boat!
> Hello,
> First of all sorry if I mispost this somehow, newbie to list alert!
> I found this list after I finished my first EV, however I definitely want
> to
> share my build and learn from everyone too on theirs. I'm hoping this
> won't
> be my last EV, thoughts are already swirling for my next one
>
> Back to my first EV. Some history: I live on a small lake just outside
> Halifax, NS, Canada. We have some boats- canoe, dingy, paddleboat and a
> couple of seadoos. They are all fun however I wanted a larger craft for
> slow cruises where I could take 6-7 people out on and cruise the lake,
> fish
> etc. The backside of the lake is now home to a nature reserve and has
> some
> really majestic views that I wanted to show friends and family. My wife
> and
> I love the seadoos however they are noisy, polluting beasts which I'm
> constantly wrenching on (would love to EV one of them). You can't take a
> seadoo for fishing or anyone else with you without presuming that someone
> is getting wet. Canoes and paddle boats tend to be dryer but also have
> cons
> with speed and capacity. So I got the notion I wanted a pontoon boat,
> seemed to fit my requirements However, costs were a concern as well as
> getting into and out of the water. I have a boat launch which I made as
> environmentally friendly as possible (washed pebble, minimal incursion
> into
> the water, etc) however it is quite steep and a bit rocky below
> the waterline. I can get seadoos and floating docks in and out but a
> pontoon boat would surely have problems being launched and retrieved. So
> I
> decided to build my own, a poor man's pontoon boat.
>
> All in told it took me less that 6 weeks from start to a
> cruising finish however I have been "accessorising" for a little while
> now.
> Being under a budget (2000-2500 CAD) and some quick time lines, I didn't
> go
> with EV components like controllers, multi volt EV motors and used as much
> off the shelf components I could retrofit. For example the motors are 12V
> duramax 32 lb thrust trolling that I mounted on the back and relocated the
> tops (control section) to central console. I ran 6 gauge wire from the
> tops
> to bottoms. I kept the voltage at 12 volts as not to electrocute anyone
> and
> used fuses everywhere. The end result is a very simple drive line that
> works surprisingly well. It also steers the boat through skid steering
> (tank like control). Overall I'm extremely happy with the build and
> everyone that has seen it asks a thousand questions. I've had a fishing
> party on it already and have had countless evening tours, the 900 LED
> lighting it up very well at night. It's near silence on the water allows
> me
> to crawl up on wildlife (even they are curious of it) and I can't remember
> having a quiet conversation on a boat at full throttle!
>
> I have posted some pics on picassa. Build is here:
> http://picasaweb.google.ca/vmdano/BoatBuild#
> Some cruise pics are here:
> http://picasaweb.google.ca/vmdano/FireflyCruises
> #
>
> I have submitted a page to the evalbum but it hasn't been posted yet (not
> sure why) but understand that these things take time. If anyone has any
> questions I will be sure to answer as best and when possible, however be
> prepared to answer my questions when I start reading your threads too!
>
> Thank you,
> Dan
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Joseph H. Strubhar
Web: www.gremcoinc.com
E-mail: [email protected]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Baker" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, August 28, 2010 8:54 AM
Subject: [EVDL] Hello/ new to the scene/ my wooden electric boat!
> Hello,
> First of all sorry if I mispost this somehow, newbie to list alert!
> I found this list after I finished my first EV, however I definitely want
> to
> share my build and learn from everyone too on theirs. I'm hoping this
> won't
> be my last EV, thoughts are already swirling for my next one
>
> Back to my first EV. Some history: I live on a small lake just outside
> Halifax, NS, Canada. We have some boats- canoe, dingy, paddleboat and a
> couple of seadoos. They are all fun however I wanted a larger craft for
> slow cruises where I could take 6-7 people out on and cruise the lake,
> fish
> etc. The backside of the lake is now home to a nature reserve and has
> some
> really majestic views that I wanted to show friends and family. My wife
> and
> I love the seadoos however they are noisy, polluting beasts which I'm
> constantly wrenching on (would love to EV one of them). You can't take a
> seadoo for fishing or anyone else with you without presuming that someone
> is getting wet. Canoes and paddle boats tend to be dryer but also have
> cons
> with speed and capacity. So I got the notion I wanted a pontoon boat,
> seemed to fit my requirements However, costs were a concern as well as
> getting into and out of the water. I have a boat launch which I made as
> environmentally friendly as possible (washed pebble, minimal incursion
> into
> the water, etc) however it is quite steep and a bit rocky below
> the waterline. I can get seadoos and floating docks in and out but a
> pontoon boat would surely have problems being launched and retrieved. So
> I
> decided to build my own, a poor man's pontoon boat.
>
> All in told it took me less that 6 weeks from start to a
> cruising finish however I have been "accessorising" for a little while
> now.
> Being under a budget (2000-2500 CAD) and some quick time lines, I didn't
> go
> with EV components like controllers, multi volt EV motors and used as much
> off the shelf components I could retrofit. For example the motors are 12V
> duramax 32 lb thrust trolling that I mounted on the back and relocated the
> tops (control section) to central console. I ran 6 gauge wire from the
> tops
> to bottoms. I kept the voltage at 12 volts as not to electrocute anyone
> and
> used fuses everywhere. The end result is a very simple drive line that
> works surprisingly well. It also steers the boat through skid steering
> (tank like control). Overall I'm extremely happy with the build and
> everyone that has seen it asks a thousand questions. I've had a fishing
> party on it already and have had countless evening tours, the 900 LED
> lighting it up very well at night. It's near silence on the water allows
> me
> to crawl up on wildlife (even they are curious of it) and I can't remember
> having a quiet conversation on a boat at full throttle!
>
> I have posted some pics on picassa. Build is here:
> http://picasaweb.google.ca/vmdano/BoatBuild#
> Some cruise pics are here:
> http://picasaweb.google.ca/vmdano/FireflyCruises
> #
>
> I have submitted a page to the evalbum but it hasn't been posted yet (not
> sure why) but understand that these things take time. If anyone has any
> questions I will be sure to answer as best and when possible, however be
> prepared to answer my questions when I start reading your threads too!
>
> Thank you,
> Dan
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Dan:
I have been cutting my lawn ( Oxford Nova Scotia) charging with solar panels
all summer. Images at evalbum.com/3340. I don't like the panel design but I
think I have a better idea. My new panels have 42 cells siliconed to a 1/4
sheet of plywood. The corners of old aluminum windows are cut , glass
siliconed in and the windows screwed to the plywood. They put out about 23
volts each ( I haven't used them to charge, so I have no amperage data.
The panels are for a Japanes Kei truck project if I ever get the truck I
have been promised. I want to use 96 volts in the truck, charge with 126v
nominal solar and integrate the truck pack with the 96v batteries for my
wind turbine.
John McManus
[email protected]
447-3500
I have been cutting my lawn ( Oxford Nova Scotia) charging with solar panels
all summer. Images at evalbum.com/3340. I don't like the panel design but I
think I have a better idea. My new panels have 42 cells siliconed to a 1/4
sheet of plywood. The corners of old aluminum windows are cut , glass
siliconed in and the windows screwed to the plywood. They put out about 23
volts each ( I haven't used them to charge, so I have no amperage data.
The panels are for a Japanes Kei truck project if I ever get the truck I
have been promised. I want to use 96 volts in the truck, charge with 126v
nominal solar and integrate the truck pack with the 96v batteries for my
wind turbine.
John McManus
[email protected]
447-3500
Lee Hart <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 8/29/2010 8:35 AM, Dan Baker wrote:
> > Yes these would be excellent PM controllers, however they cost as much
> > or more than the motors (paid $100 each + tax for them at local store).
>
> One source of cheap (in all senses of the word) controllers are junked
> electric scooters. They generally have two 12v batteries in series, and
> so are 24v input. They drive a single 24v motor, but in your case, you
> can connect the two 12v motors in series and the controller won't know
> the difference.
>
> You'll want to measure the actual current that the motors draw, and pick
> a controller that can deliver at least this much (preferably 2 or 3
> times more if you're using Chinese controllers). A "250 watt" controller
> means 250w/24v = 10.4 amps max. If you really have 410 watt motors, they
> would draw 410w/12v = 34.2 amps, but I suspect that is marketing baloney.
>
> > Of course the next step might be to go with a single motor
> > retrofitted to an old outboard bottom end
>
> A friend of mine has done just that. I think it's an old 24v floor
> scrubber motor, rated at roughly 2 HP, mated to a dead outboard motor's
> lower end. It worked out extremely well.
>
> > Once I ever get the solar panel built, it will put out 280 watts
> > in full sunshine. Since a leisure boat spends 99% of it's life parked the
> panel should
> > keep the batteries charged for weekend excursions.
>
> That's a reasonable strategy. But again, I'd be surprised if the PV
> panels ever deliver their rated power.
>
> > I think I have found a way to build them but I need to find some
> >tempered glass. I've seen others just glue the cells face down (by
> > their backs only) to the glass with a corrosion free watertight
> > silicone.
>
> This works, but you need the right sealant. I used Dow Corning 1-2577
> conformal coating, which is rated for this application. Lay the cells
> face down on the glass, wire them up, and test them. Make a dam around
> the edges of the glass with tape, level it, then pour about 1/8" of
> 1-2577 on it. Look on the bottom, and slide and move the cells as needed
> to work out any air bubbles between the cells and glass. When it cures,
> you'll have a waterproof assembly that won't degrade or yellow with age
> and from UV light.
>
> > I've thought of putting something on the front barrels to smooth the flow
> > however I haven't found anything yet that is strong enough to take the
> odd
> > run a ground or hitting a rock.
>
> My cousin built a boat rather like yours, except he made the pontoons
> out of plywood for each side. They were square of course.
> ramp in the front. But then he filled them with that self-expanding foam
> insulation. Beware; it expands quite forcefully; his first attempt
> pushed the sides off the plywood pontoons!
>
> So, I imagine you could slice the end from your front barrels, force it
> flat with some bolts, and then blow it full of this foam. This would
> give you a point on the front, yet it would still be "unsinkable".
>
> > Would I be able to reduce/increase power to the motors to steer?
>
> Generally yes. Electric motors are pretty tough, and can easily run at
> 2x rated voltage and current for a short time. The propellers might
> cavitate though if you run them too fast.
>
> --
> Lee A. Hart | Ring the bells that still can ring
> 814 8th Ave N | Forget the perfect offering
> Sartell MN 56377 | There is a crack in everything
> leeahart earthlink.net | That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
>
> _______________________________________________
> | REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
> | Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
> | UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
> | OTHER HELP: http://evdl.org/help/
> | OPTIONS: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
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Hey Lee,
Yeah I suspect my motors aren't 32 amps a piece, although I do have a 60 amp
fuse that feeds both motors that did pop once, not sure if something shorted
or just a surge when I turned the key on and both were set on. I might
have to look into these PM controllers more. I'm pretty happy with the
speed, especially considering it's a brick I'm pushing through water. The
foam sounds interesting, might be willing to try that in the off season.
Initially I thought with barrels I could partially fill them with water if
the boat was tippy however it is far from that.
Thanks John and Lee for the design info on solar panels. Right now I have
some 1/2 inch pressure treated plywood and some 1/8 inch acyclic plastic
clear in 4x8 sheets. I like your
panels John, seem to what I was thinking on building however a lot of web
info seems to point to that plywood isn't watertight and the cells are very
suspect to corrode easily. How long have you had your panels built- have
you had issues with moisture? Lee, is the glass you glued down to
tempered? I'm trying to find some recycled as buying new is definitely not
cost effective, wondering if I could use regular glass. I don't think I
will get the 280 watts of full power but then again I don't need all that to
begin with. I'm charging the boat with a cheap car charger that does 12 or
2 amps. Rarely do I charge at 12, usually plug it in at night on weekends on
2 and it's usually charged back up even after a good day of play. The
biggest benifit I see with solar is I hopefully won't have to plug in it
anymore or nearly as much, it can be a pain plugging it in and the charger
has to stay outside which worries me around wet weather and the odd beaver
Last night I was out cruising trying to take some night shots and two
of them were literally circling the boat, glad I made it out of PT wood
and not something tastier! I believe it's all the lights that kept
attracting them.
John, whenever you are in Halifax you are welcome to stop by and go for a
cruise (as well as anyone else, just give me some heads up). Unfortunately
my season might be cut short this year as there is now a hurricane now
pointed at us. I spent yesterday working on my makeshift trailer so
hopefully i will be able to slip it in and out a little easier.
Yeah I suspect my motors aren't 32 amps a piece, although I do have a 60 amp
fuse that feeds both motors that did pop once, not sure if something shorted
or just a surge when I turned the key on and both were set on. I might
have to look into these PM controllers more. I'm pretty happy with the
speed, especially considering it's a brick I'm pushing through water. The
foam sounds interesting, might be willing to try that in the off season.
Initially I thought with barrels I could partially fill them with water if
the boat was tippy however it is far from that.
Thanks John and Lee for the design info on solar panels. Right now I have
some 1/2 inch pressure treated plywood and some 1/8 inch acyclic plastic
clear in 4x8 sheets. I like your
panels John, seem to what I was thinking on building however a lot of web
info seems to point to that plywood isn't watertight and the cells are very
suspect to corrode easily. How long have you had your panels built- have
you had issues with moisture? Lee, is the glass you glued down to
tempered? I'm trying to find some recycled as buying new is definitely not
cost effective, wondering if I could use regular glass. I don't think I
will get the 280 watts of full power but then again I don't need all that to
begin with. I'm charging the boat with a cheap car charger that does 12 or
2 amps. Rarely do I charge at 12, usually plug it in at night on weekends on
2 and it's usually charged back up even after a good day of play. The
biggest benifit I see with solar is I hopefully won't have to plug in it
anymore or nearly as much, it can be a pain plugging it in and the charger
has to stay outside which worries me around wet weather and the odd beaver
Last night I was out cruising trying to take some night shots and twoof them were literally circling the boat, glad I made it out of PT wood
and not something tastier! I believe it's all the lights that kept
attracting them.
John, whenever you are in Halifax you are welcome to stop by and go for a
cruise (as well as anyone else, just give me some heads up). Unfortunately
my season might be cut short this year as there is now a hurricane now
pointed at us. I spent yesterday working on my makeshift trailer so
hopefully i will be able to slip it in and out a little easier.
John McManus <[email protected]> wrote:
> Dan:
>
> I have been cutting my lawn ( Oxford Nova Scotia) charging with solar
> panels
> all summer. Images at evalbum.com/3340. I don't like the panel design but
> I
> think I have a better idea. My new panels have 42 cells siliconed to a 1/4
> sheet of plywood. The corners of old aluminum windows are cut , glass
> siliconed in and the windows screwed to the plywood. They put out about 23
> volts each ( I haven't used them to charge, so I have no amperage data.
>
> The panels are for a Japanes Kei truck project if I ever get the truck I
> have been promised. I want to use 96 volts in the truck, charge with 126v
> nominal solar and integrate the truck pack with the 96v batteries for my
> wind turbine.
>
> John McManus
> [email protected]
> 447-3500
> On Sun, Aug 29, 2010 at 2:14 PM, Lee Hart <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > On 8/29/2010 8:35 AM, Dan Baker wrote:
> > > Yes these would be excellent PM controllers, however they cost as much
> > > or more than the motors (paid $100 each + tax for them at local store).
> >
> > One source of cheap (in all senses of the word) controllers are junked
> > electric scooters. They generally have two 12v batteries in series, and
> > so are 24v input. They drive a single 24v motor, but in your case, you
> > can connect the two 12v motors in series and the controller won't know
> > the difference.
> >
> > You'll want to measure the actual current that the motors draw, and pick
> > a controller that can deliver at least this much (preferably 2 or 3
> > times more if you're using Chinese controllers). A "250 watt" controller
> > means 250w/24v = 10.4 amps max. If you really have 410 watt motors, they
> > would draw 410w/12v = 34.2 amps, but I suspect that is marketing baloney.
> >
> > > Of course the next step might be to go with a single motor
> > > retrofitted to an old outboard bottom end
> >
> > A friend of mine has done just that. I think it's an old 24v floor
> > scrubber motor, rated at roughly 2 HP, mated to a dead outboard motor's
> > lower end. It worked out extremely well.
> >
> > > Once I ever get the solar panel built, it will put out 280 watts
> > > in full sunshine. Since a leisure boat spends 99% of it's life parked
> the
> > panel should
> > > keep the batteries charged for weekend excursions.
> >
> > That's a reasonable strategy. But again, I'd be surprised if the PV
> > panels ever deliver their rated power.
> >
> > > I think I have found a way to build them but I need to find some
> > >tempered glass. I've seen others just glue the cells face down (by
> > > their backs only) to the glass with a corrosion free watertight
> > > silicone.
> >
> > This works, but you need the right sealant. I used Dow Corning 1-2577
> > conformal coating, which is rated for this application. Lay the cells
> > face down on the glass, wire them up, and test them. Make a dam around
> > the edges of the glass with tape, level it, then pour about 1/8" of
> > 1-2577 on it. Look on the bottom, and slide and move the cells as needed
> > to work out any air bubbles between the cells and glass. When it cures,
> > you'll have a waterproof assembly that won't degrade or yellow with age
> > and from UV light.
> >
> > > I've thought of putting something on the front barrels to smooth the
> flow
> > > however I haven't found anything yet that is strong enough to take the
> > odd
> > > run a ground or hitting a rock.
> >
> > My cousin built a boat rather like yours, except he made the pontoons
> > out of plywood for each side. They were square of course.
> > ramp in the front. But then he filled them with that self-expanding foam
> > insulation. Beware; it expands quite forcefully; his first attempt
> > pushed the sides off the plywood pontoons!
> >
> > So, I imagine you could slice the end from your front barrels, force it
> > flat with some bolts, and then blow it full of this foam. This would
> > give you a point on the front, yet it would still be "unsinkable".
> >
> > > Would I be able to reduce/increase power to the motors to steer?
> >
> > Generally yes. Electric motors are pretty tough, and can easily run at
> > 2x rated voltage and current for a short time. The propellers might
> > cavitate though if you run them too fast.
> >
> > --
> > Lee A. Hart | Ring the bells that still can ring
> > 814 8th Ave N | Forget the perfect offering
> > Sartell MN 56377 | There is a crack in everything
> > leeahart earthlink.net | That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
> >
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