John McManus <[email protected]
> I have been cutting my lawn ( Oxford Nova Scotia) charging with solar
> all summer. Images at evalbum.com/3340. I don't like the panel design but
> think I have a better idea. My new panels have 42 cells siliconed to a 1/4
> sheet of plywood. The corners of old aluminum windows are cut , glass
> siliconed in and the windows screwed to the plywood. They put out about 23
> volts each ( I haven't used them to charge, so I have no amperage data.
> The panels are for a Japanes Kei truck project if I ever get the truck I
> have been promised. I want to use 96 volts in the truck, charge with 126v
> nominal solar and integrate the truck pack with the 96v batteries for my
> wind turbine.
> John McManus
> [email protected]
> On Sun, Aug 29, 2010 at 2:14 PM, Lee Hart <[email protected]
> > On 8/29/2010 8:35 AM, Dan Baker wrote:
> > > Yes these would be excellent PM controllers, however they cost as much
> > > or more than the motors (paid $100 each + tax for them at local store).
> > One source of cheap (in all senses of the word) controllers are junked
> > electric scooters. They generally have two 12v batteries in series, and
> > so are 24v input. They drive a single 24v motor, but in your case, you
> > can connect the two 12v motors in series and the controller won't know
> > the difference.
> > You'll want to measure the actual current that the motors draw, and pick
> > a controller that can deliver at least this much (preferably 2 or 3
> > times more if you're using Chinese controllers). A "250 watt" controller
> > means 250w/24v = 10.4 amps max. If you really have 410 watt motors, they
> > would draw 410w/12v = 34.2 amps, but I suspect that is marketing baloney.
> > > Of course the next step might be to go with a single motor
> > > retrofitted to an old outboard bottom end
> > A friend of mine has done just that. I think it's an old 24v floor
> > scrubber motor, rated at roughly 2 HP, mated to a dead outboard motor's
> > lower end. It worked out extremely well.
> > > Once I ever get the solar panel built, it will put out 280 watts
> > > in full sunshine. Since a leisure boat spends 99% of it's life parked
> > panel should
> > > keep the batteries charged for weekend excursions.
> > That's a reasonable strategy. But again, I'd be surprised if the PV
> > panels ever deliver their rated power.
> > > I think I have found a way to build them but I need to find some
> > >tempered glass. I've seen others just glue the cells face down (by
> > > their backs only) to the glass with a corrosion free watertight
> > > silicone.
> > This works, but you need the right sealant. I used Dow Corning 1-2577
> > conformal coating, which is rated for this application. Lay the cells
> > face down on the glass, wire them up, and test them. Make a dam around
> > the edges of the glass with tape, level it, then pour about 1/8" of
> > 1-2577 on it. Look on the bottom, and slide and move the cells as needed
> > to work out any air bubbles between the cells and glass. When it cures,
> > you'll have a waterproof assembly that won't degrade or yellow with age
> > and from UV light.
> > > I've thought of putting something on the front barrels to smooth the
> > > however I haven't found anything yet that is strong enough to take the
> > odd
> > > run a ground or hitting a rock.
> > My cousin built a boat rather like yours, except he made the pontoons
> > out of plywood for each side. They were square of course.
> > ramp in the front. But then he filled them with that self-expanding foam
> > insulation. Beware; it expands quite forcefully; his first attempt
> > pushed the sides off the plywood pontoons!
> > So, I imagine you could slice the end from your front barrels, force it
> > flat with some bolts, and then blow it full of this foam. This would
> > give you a point on the front, yet it would still be "unsinkable".
> > > Would I be able to reduce/increase power to the motors to steer?
> > Generally yes. Electric motors are pretty tough, and can easily run at
> > 2x rated voltage and current for a short time. The propellers might
> > cavitate though if you run them too fast.
> > --
> > Lee A. Hart | Ring the bells that still can ring
> > 814 8th Ave N | Forget the perfect offering
> > Sartell MN 56377 | There is a crack in everything
> > leeahart earthlink.net | That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
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