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70 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,

I have done a ton of searching and reading and want some feedback from the
experts. If you are running a high current conversion, Zilla 2K, what type
of manual disconnect do you use if you use one at all. Has your setup been
tested all out at high current draw? I seen what I think the Zombie uses:

http://www.kewelectricals.com/fuseunit.htm

Anyone know a local supplier for this type of manual disconnect?

Thanks! ;)

Casey

http://www.dssev.ca


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Discussion Starter #2
I just installed an ez safe disconnect. Worked real well.

Rechargecar.com/product/ev-ez-safe-disconnect
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Discussion Starter #3
Don't mind me, I missed the 2000a in this post. I need to find my reading
glasses.
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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the replies. I took a look at the "crowbar" treads and it seems
that their is no easy answer to this question. Thinking to the zombies
setup, John must have chosen this for various reasons and must have come to
the conclusion that this is the best way to go for the vehicle.

Anyone know a supplier for those porcelain fuse holders? ;)




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Discussion Starter #5
----- Original Message -----
From: "Casey Mynott" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, December 05, 2010 11:13 AM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] High Current Manual Disconnect


>
> Thanks for the replies. I took a look at the "crowbar" treads and it seems
> that their is no easy answer to this question. Thinking to the zombies
> setup, John must have chosen this for various reasons and must have come
> to
> the conclusion that this is the best way to go for the vehicle.
>
> Anyone know a supplier for those porcelain fuse holders? ;)
>
> Surplus Sales of Nebraska has them for 30 amp that take fuse sizes from 1
> to 30 amp. I never use those type since the 40's. We now use nylon fuse
> holders that are track mounted on DIN rails. We get them from are local
> electrical supply house.

Surplus Sales is at: http://www.surplussales.com

If you need to mounted the high amp bolt in fuses, then mount them on stand
off bolt studs that are install on insulator boards which is the same
material that is use in circuit breaker panels and switch gears.

Go to a local motor shop and pick up a piece of 3/4 inch and 1/2 inch thick
insulator board that is size to fit your fuse. Drill two 3/8 inch dia holes
in the 1/2 inch board that has the same spacing of the bolt in fuse holes.

Lay the 1/2 board over the 3/4 inch board and pilot drill through the 1/2
board into the 3/4 inch board just deep enough which will be about 1/8 deep
into the 3/4 inch board.

I use 3/8 x 16 brass bolts that are install into 1/2 board with the head on
the back side which the fuse will be bolted to. I first bolt on the bolt
using a lock washer and nut. The bolt should be about 2 to 2-1/2 inches
long depending the diameter of the fuse. I may have to add another brass
nut on top of the other nut, so the fuse body has clearance from the board.

The bolt heads on the back side of the board is cover with the 3/4 inch
insulator board. To clear the head of the bolts, I use a 3/4 inch speed bit
to recess the hole in the 3/4 inch board about 5/16 inch deep.

Mount both boards together by drilling a 1/2 inch hole through both both
boards in the corners.

You now have brass threaded studs for mounting a bolt in fuse. Before I
place the fuse on the bolt studs, I place a brass washer on the stud, then
the fuses and the wire spade terminal, another washer, lock washer and nut.

Roland








>
>
> --
> View this message in context:
> http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/High-Current-Manual-Disconnect-tp3073045p3073541.html
> Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at
> Nabble.com.
>
> _______________________________________________
> | REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
> | Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
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_______________________________________________
| REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
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Joined
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70 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Hey Roland,


Thanks for the detailed reply in regards to mounting a high current fuse. I
am not too sure that the Zombie's setup utilizes a fuse in the manual
disconnect. I maybe wrong though. I think the idea is to use some sort of
copper in the disconnect so in a runaway emergency the operator pulls the
link and the vehicle is dead.


I took a look through the surplus website and cannot find anything like
this:


http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/file/n3073934/fuseunits1.gif


Ooooo.....just found the album for the Zombie's manual disconnect:


http://photos.plasmaboyracing.com/Emergency-Disconnect
http://photos.plasmaboyracing.com/Emergency-Disconnect


Yup, this is most definitely the way I think I want to go. Anyone know where
to source one of these local?


http://swe-check.com/phpcode/list_series.php?product_group=7&collection=151
http://swe-check.com/phpcode/list_series.php?product_group=7&collection=151


Seems going to Australia is a bit far for me......


Oooo.....I think I am getting close. These "fuse holders" are refereed to as
"red spot" fuse holders rated 660v either 200 or 400 amp.


Good link to a catalog
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=4&ved=0CCwQFjAD&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.gepowercontrols.com%2Feu%2Fresources%2Fliterature_library%2Fcatalogs%2Findustrial_components%2Fdownloads%2FDS_Catalogue_fuseholders_english_uk.pdf&rct=j&q=red%20spot%20fuse%20holder%20gec&ei=Dif8TOqKBJSosQOSqI33DQ&usg=AFQjCNHjHNGNIqfqxtFFViTvnlSBhiCvYQ&cad=rja
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=4&ved=0CCwQFjAD&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.gepowercontrols.com%2Feu%2Fresources%2Fliterature_library%2Fcatalogs%2Findustrial_components%2Fdownloads%2FDS_Catalogue_fuseholders_english_uk.pdf&rct=j&q=red%20spot%20fuse%20holder%20gec&ei=Dif8TOqKBJSosQOSqI33DQ&usg=AFQjCNHjHNGNIqfqxtFFViTvnlSBhiCvYQ&cad=rja


Ooooo....I think I found a local supplier!
http://www.fusetek.com/showonecat.cfm?SELECTEDMID=3&selectedscatid=21
http://www.fusetek.com/showonecat.cfm?SELECTEDMID=3&selectedscatid=21 I
will contact them tomorrow and report back! ;D


Just in case anyone was wondering I used the search string in google: "red
spot fuse holder gec"


Casey


Roland Wiench wrote:
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Casey Mynott"
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, December 05, 2010 11:13 AM
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] High Current Manual Disconnect
>
>
>>
>> Thanks for the replies. I took a look at the "crowbar" treads and it
>> seems
>> that their is no easy answer to this question. Thinking to the zombies
>> setup, John must have chosen this for various reasons and must have come
>> to
>> the conclusion that this is the best way to go for the vehicle.
>>
>> Anyone know a supplier for those porcelain fuse holders? ;)
>>
>> Surplus Sales of Nebraska has them for 30 amp that take fuse sizes from 1
>> to 30 amp. I never use those type since the 40's. We now use nylon fuse
>> holders that are track mounted on DIN rails. We get them from are local
>> electrical supply house.
>
> Surplus Sales is at: http://www.surplussales.com
>
> If you need to mounted the high amp bolt in fuses, then mount them on
> stand
> off bolt studs that are install on insulator boards which is the same
> material that is use in circuit breaker panels and switch gears.
>
> Go to a local motor shop and pick up a piece of 3/4 inch and 1/2 inch
> thick
> insulator board that is size to fit your fuse. Drill two 3/8 inch dia
> holes
> in the 1/2 inch board that has the same spacing of the bolt in fuse holes.
>
> Lay the 1/2 board over the 3/4 inch board and pilot drill through the 1/2
> board into the 3/4 inch board just deep enough which will be about 1/8
> deep
> into the 3/4 inch board.
>
> I use 3/8 x 16 brass bolts that are install into 1/2 board with the head
> on
> the back side which the fuse will be bolted to. I first bolt on the bolt
> using a lock washer and nut. The bolt should be about 2 to 2-1/2 inches
> long depending the diameter of the fuse. I may have to add another brass
> nut on top of the other nut, so the fuse body has clearance from the
> board.
>
> The bolt heads on the back side of the board is cover with the 3/4 inch
> insulator board. To clear the head of the bolts, I use a 3/4 inch speed
> bit
> to recess the hole in the 3/4 inch board about 5/16 inch deep.
>
> Mount both boards together by drilling a 1/2 inch hole through both both
> boards in the corners.
>
> You now have brass threaded studs for mounting a bolt in fuse. Before I
> place the fuse on the bolt studs, I place a brass washer on the stud, then
> the fuses and the wire spade terminal, another washer, lock washer and
> nut.
>
> Roland
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>>
>>
>> --
>> View this message in context:
>> http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/High-Current-Manual-Disconnect-tp3073045p3073541.html
>> Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at
>> Nabble.com.
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> | REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
>> | Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
>> | UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
>> | OTHER HELP: http://evdl.org/help/
>> | OPTIONS: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> | REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
> | Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
> | UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
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>
>

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Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

_______________________________________________
| REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
| Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
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| OTHER HELP: http://evdl.org/help/
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Registered
Joined
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70 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I recall the incident where Zombie had an issue
and the driver (Tim?) pulled the manual disconnect,
leaving the trailing ICE driver wondering how in
the world the driver of Zombie had time to take
pictures while driving....
The flash was the arc during the disconnect of course.

Cor van de Water
Director HW & Systems Architecture Group
Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com
Email: [email protected] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [email protected]
Tel: +1 408 383 7626 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Tel: +91 (040)23117400 x203 XoIP: +31877841130

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On
Behalf Of Casey Mynott
Sent: Monday, December 06, 2010 10:00 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [EVDL] High Current Manual Disconnect


Hey Roland,


Thanks for the detailed reply in regards to mounting a high current
fuse. I am not too sure that the Zombie's setup utilizes a fuse in the
manual disconnect. I maybe wrong though. I think the idea is to use some
sort of copper in the disconnect so in a runaway emergency the operator
pulls the link and the vehicle is dead.


I took a look through the surplus website and cannot find anything like
this:


http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/file/n30739
34/fuseunits1.gif


Ooooo.....just found the album for the Zombie's manual disconnect:


http://photos.plasmaboyracing.com/Emergency-Disconnect
http://photos.plasmaboyracing.com/Emergency-Disconnect


Yup, this is most definitely the way I think I want to go. Anyone know
where to source one of these local?


http://swe-check.com/phpcode/list_series.php?product_group=7&collection=
151
http://swe-check.com/phpcode/list_series.php?product_group=7&collection=
151


Seems going to Australia is a bit far for me......


Oooo.....I think I am getting close. These "fuse holders" are refereed
to as "red spot" fuse holders rated 660v either 200 or 400 amp.


Good link to a catalog
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=4&ved=0CCwQFjAD&url=http%3A
%2F%2Fwww.gepowercontrols.com%2Feu%2Fresources%2Fliterature_library%2Fca
talogs%2Findustrial_components%2Fdownloads%2FDS_Catalogue_fuseholders_en
glish_uk.pdf&rct=j&q=red%20spot%20fuse%20holder%20gec&ei=Dif8TOqKBJSosQO
SqI33DQ&usg=AFQjCNHjHNGNIqfqxtFFViTvnlSBhiCvYQ&cad=rja
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=4&ved=0CCwQFjAD&url=http%3A
%2F%2Fwww.gepowercontrols.com%2Feu%2Fresources%2Fliterature_library%2Fca
talogs%2Findustrial_components%2Fdownloads%2FDS_Catalogue_fuseholders_en
glish_uk.pdf&rct=j&q=red%20spot%20fuse%20holder%20gec&ei=Dif8TOqKBJSosQO
SqI33DQ&usg=AFQjCNHjHNGNIqfqxtFFViTvnlSBhiCvYQ&cad=rja


Ooooo....I think I found a local supplier!
http://www.fusetek.com/showonecat.cfm?SELECTEDMID=3&selectedscatid=21
http://www.fusetek.com/showonecat.cfm?SELECTEDMID=3&selectedscatid=21 I
will contact them tomorrow and report back! ;D


Just in case anyone was wondering I used the search string in google:
"red
spot fuse holder gec"


Casey


Roland Wiench wrote:
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Casey Mynott"
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, December 05, 2010 11:13 AM
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] High Current Manual Disconnect
>
>
>>
>> Thanks for the replies. I took a look at the "crowbar" treads and it
>> seems
>> that their is no easy answer to this question. Thinking to the
zombies
>> setup, John must have chosen this for various reasons and must have
come
>> to
>> the conclusion that this is the best way to go for the vehicle.
>>
>> Anyone know a supplier for those porcelain fuse holders? ;)
>>
>> Surplus Sales of Nebraska has them for 30 amp that take fuse sizes
from 1
>> to 30 amp. I never use those type since the 40's. We now use nylon
fuse
>> holders that are track mounted on DIN rails. We get them from are
local
>> electrical supply house.
>
> Surplus Sales is at: http://www.surplussales.com
>
> If you need to mounted the high amp bolt in fuses, then mount them on
> stand
> off bolt studs that are install on insulator boards which is the same
> material that is use in circuit breaker panels and switch gears.
>
> Go to a local motor shop and pick up a piece of 3/4 inch and 1/2 inch
> thick
> insulator board that is size to fit your fuse. Drill two 3/8 inch dia
> holes
> in the 1/2 inch board that has the same spacing of the bolt in fuse
holes.
>
> Lay the 1/2 board over the 3/4 inch board and pilot drill through the
1/2
> board into the 3/4 inch board just deep enough which will be about 1/8
> deep
> into the 3/4 inch board.
>
> I use 3/8 x 16 brass bolts that are install into 1/2 board with the
head
> on
> the back side which the fuse will be bolted to. I first bolt on the
bolt
> using a lock washer and nut. The bolt should be about 2 to 2-1/2
inches
> long depending the diameter of the fuse. I may have to add another
brass
> nut on top of the other nut, so the fuse body has clearance from the
> board.
>
> The bolt heads on the back side of the board is cover with the 3/4
inch
> insulator board. To clear the head of the bolts, I use a 3/4 inch
speed
> bit
> to recess the hole in the 3/4 inch board about 5/16 inch deep.
>
> Mount both boards together by drilling a 1/2 inch hole through both
both
> boards in the corners.
>
> You now have brass threaded studs for mounting a bolt in fuse. Before
I
> place the fuse on the bolt studs, I place a brass washer on the stud,
then
> the fuses and the wire spade terminal, another washer, lock washer and
> nut.
>
> Roland
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>>
>>
>> --
>> View this message in context:
>>
http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/High-Curren
t-Manual-Disconnect-tp3073045p3073541.html
>> Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive
at
>> Nabble.com.
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> | REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
>> | Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
>> | UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
>> | OTHER HELP: http://evdl.org/help/
>> | OPTIONS: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> | REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
> | Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
> | UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
> | OTHER HELP: http://evdl.org/help/
> | OPTIONS: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
>

--
View this message in context:
http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/High-Curren
t-Manual-Disconnect-tp3073045p3073934.html
Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at
Nabble.com.

_______________________________________________
| REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
| Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
| UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
| OTHER HELP: http://evdl.org/help/
| OPTIONS: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev

_______________________________________________
| REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
| Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
| UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
| OTHER HELP: http://evdl.org/help/
| OPTIONS: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Thanks so much for all the replies.

That sounds like a BRIGHT flash. I am thinking of using the fuse holder
outside of the cab and enclosed. Then rigging a rigid rod to pull the handle
unit to disconnect. ;)

Casey


Cor van de Water wrote:
>
> I recall the incident where Zombie had an issue
> and the driver (Tim?) pulled the manual disconnect,
> leaving the trailing ICE driver wondering how in
> the world the driver of Zombie had time to take
> pictures while driving....
> The flash was the arc during the disconnect of course.
>
> Cor van de Water
> Director HW & Systems Architecture Group
> Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com
> Email: [email protected] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
> Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [email protected]
> Tel: +1 408 383 7626 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
> Tel: +91 (040)23117400 x203 XoIP: +31877841130
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On
> Behalf Of Casey Mynott
> Sent: Monday, December 06, 2010 10:00 AM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] High Current Manual Disconnect
>
>
> Hey Roland,
>
>
> Thanks for the detailed reply in regards to mounting a high current
> fuse. I am not too sure that the Zombie's setup utilizes a fuse in the
> manual disconnect. I maybe wrong though. I think the idea is to use some
> sort of copper in the disconnect so in a runaway emergency the operator
> pulls the link and the vehicle is dead.
>
>
> I took a look through the surplus website and cannot find anything like
> this:
>
>
> http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/file/n30739
> 34/fuseunits1.gif
>
>
> Ooooo.....just found the album for the Zombie's manual disconnect:
>
>
> http://photos.plasmaboyracing.com/Emergency-Disconnect
> http://photos.plasmaboyracing.com/Emergency-Disconnect
>
>
> Yup, this is most definitely the way I think I want to go. Anyone know
> where to source one of these local?
>
>
> http://swe-check.com/phpcode/list_series.php?product_group=7&collection=
> 151
> http://swe-check.com/phpcode/list_series.php?product_group=7&collection=
> 151
>
>
> Seems going to Australia is a bit far for me......
>
>
> Oooo.....I think I am getting close. These "fuse holders" are refereed
> to as "red spot" fuse holders rated 660v either 200 or 400 amp.
>
>
> Good link to a catalog
> http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=4&ved=0CCwQFjAD&url=http%3A
> %2F%2Fwww.gepowercontrols.com%2Feu%2Fresources%2Fliterature_library%2Fca
> talogs%2Findustrial_components%2Fdownloads%2FDS_Catalogue_fuseholders_en
> glish_uk.pdf&rct=j&q=red%20spot%20fuse%20holder%20gec&ei=Dif8TOqKBJSosQO
> SqI33DQ&usg=AFQjCNHjHNGNIqfqxtFFViTvnlSBhiCvYQ&cad=rja
> http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=4&ved=0CCwQFjAD&url=http%3A
> %2F%2Fwww.gepowercontrols.com%2Feu%2Fresources%2Fliterature_library%2Fca
> talogs%2Findustrial_components%2Fdownloads%2FDS_Catalogue_fuseholders_en
> glish_uk.pdf&rct=j&q=red%20spot%20fuse%20holder%20gec&ei=Dif8TOqKBJSosQO
> SqI33DQ&usg=AFQjCNHjHNGNIqfqxtFFViTvnlSBhiCvYQ&cad=rja
>
>
> Ooooo....I think I found a local supplier!
> http://www.fusetek.com/showonecat.cfm?SELECTEDMID=3&selectedscatid=21
> http://www.fusetek.com/showonecat.cfm?SELECTEDMID=3&selectedscatid=21 I
> will contact them tomorrow and report back! ;D
>
>
> Just in case anyone was wondering I used the search string in google:
> "red
> spot fuse holder gec"
>
>
> Casey
>
>
> Roland Wiench wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Casey Mynott"
>> To:
>> Sent: Sunday, December 05, 2010 11:13 AM
>> Subject: Re: [EVDL] High Current Manual Disconnect
>>
>>
>>>
>>> Thanks for the replies. I took a look at the "crowbar" treads and it
>>> seems
>>> that their is no easy answer to this question. Thinking to the
> zombies
>>> setup, John must have chosen this for various reasons and must have
> come
>>> to
>>> the conclusion that this is the best way to go for the vehicle.
>>>
>>> Anyone know a supplier for those porcelain fuse holders? ;)
>>>
>>> Surplus Sales of Nebraska has them for 30 amp that take fuse sizes
> from 1
>>> to 30 amp. I never use those type since the 40's. We now use nylon
> fuse
>>> holders that are track mounted on DIN rails. We get them from are
> local
>>> electrical supply house.
>>
>> Surplus Sales is at: http://www.surplussales.com
>>
>> If you need to mounted the high amp bolt in fuses, then mount them on
>> stand
>> off bolt studs that are install on insulator boards which is the same
>> material that is use in circuit breaker panels and switch gears.
>>
>> Go to a local motor shop and pick up a piece of 3/4 inch and 1/2 inch
>> thick
>> insulator board that is size to fit your fuse. Drill two 3/8 inch dia
>> holes
>> in the 1/2 inch board that has the same spacing of the bolt in fuse
> holes.
>>
>> Lay the 1/2 board over the 3/4 inch board and pilot drill through the
> 1/2
>> board into the 3/4 inch board just deep enough which will be about 1/8
>> deep
>> into the 3/4 inch board.
>>
>> I use 3/8 x 16 brass bolts that are install into 1/2 board with the
> head
>> on
>> the back side which the fuse will be bolted to. I first bolt on the
> bolt
>> using a lock washer and nut. The bolt should be about 2 to 2-1/2
> inches
>> long depending the diameter of the fuse. I may have to add another
> brass
>> nut on top of the other nut, so the fuse body has clearance from the
>> board.
>>
>> The bolt heads on the back side of the board is cover with the 3/4
> inch
>> insulator board. To clear the head of the bolts, I use a 3/4 inch
> speed
>> bit
>> to recess the hole in the 3/4 inch board about 5/16 inch deep.
>>
>> Mount both boards together by drilling a 1/2 inch hole through both
> both
>> boards in the corners.
>>
>> You now have brass threaded studs for mounting a bolt in fuse. Before
> I
>> place the fuse on the bolt studs, I place a brass washer on the stud,
> then
>> the fuses and the wire spade terminal, another washer, lock washer and
>> nut.
>>
>> Roland
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --
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> t-Manual-Disconnect-tp3073045p3073541.html
>>> Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive
> at
>>> Nabble.com.
>>>
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>
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Discussion Starter #9
Apparently, $200 is a decent price for one of these. I have one on the way!
;)



Hey Cor,

Do breakers exist that will break 360 volts @ 2000amps? I am guessing they
would be expensive? I just priced out the fuse holder from a local supplier
and I can only get black due to CSA approval and they are $200. Anyone know
an american supplier for GEC Red Spot Fuse Holders? I need a better price
than $200. ;(

Casey

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Discussion Starter #10
Casey Mynott wrote:

> We will be using this vehicle as a drag racing vehicle. So, =

> pulling max capacity out of the pack for 12 - 16 seconds =

> would be the idea. We have two main contactors. According to =

> Otmar one is considered the main and the other the safety. =


You must choose your protection devices (fuse(s), circuit breaker(s) so tha=
t they will open before the contactors fail closed. That is, contactors ha=
ve a carry curve; they can carry X amps for Y seconds and 2X amps for Y/Z s=
econds, etc. If you pass too much current through the contactor for too lo=
ng, then it could fail to open when you try to use it to safely interrupt p=
ower. Fuses and breakers have carry (or trip) curves that specify how long=
they can pass a given amount of current without opening. You need to choo=
se/size your protection devices such that they will open and interrupt the =
current before the contactors are damaged.

> I am assuming if the motor is seeing, for example, 1900 amps =

> then the controller is seeing 1900 amps from the battery =

> pack?

No. The controller acts something like a transformer; the power on the inp=
ut will be about the same as that on the output, so if the input voltage is=
higher than the output voltage, the input current must be lower than that =
on the output.

> If the battery pack is supplying 1900 amps for 16 seconds =

> what type of fuse would be used and in what configuration?

A good place to start looking is the Caf=E9 Electric website:

<http://cafeelectric.com/shop/index.php?main_page=3Dindex&cPath=3D3>

Notice that for a Z2K they recommend particular 700A or 800A fuses.

With respect to appropriate DC-rated breakers, you need to look at the trip=
curves and manufacturer's specs to determine if a particular breaker is su=
itable for use on DC, and what the appropriate wiring scheme is to do so sa=
fely (the manufacturer will have specific advice on how to wire the poles o=
f a multi-pole breaker to achieve the stated DC rating). For instance, the=
Square-D LA series 125-400A 3-pole breakers are UL/CSA listed for 125 and =
250VDC and Square-D certified for 600VDC. The 400A breaker looks capable o=
f handling the current you are anticipating.

Here's a 400A LA breaker for $1260 new or $680 reconditioned:

<http://www.relectric.com/Store/Circuit-Breakers/LA36400>


Cheers,

Roger.

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Discussion Starter #11
Cor van de Water wrote:
> The whole purpose of this list is to speed up the
> learning curve of those who wants/needs to learn and
> understands the art of asking the right questions.
> Once you have gone through the curve, you are expected
> to move from consumer to producer role ;-)

Or produce time slips from the track. Or, at least produce entertaining
stories on what you learned. :)

If you would not be forgotten
Soon as you are dead and rotten
Either write of deeds worth reading
Or *do* deeds worthy of repeating
-- Ben Franklin

> I agree that the GEC manual fuse disconnect converted
> with a copper strip to become just disconnect looks
> like a good and cost-effective alternative to the
> excessively expensive manual or automatic
> disconnects for 2000A.

This particular fuseholder looks well suited to the purpose. It is
totally enclosed, so no "live" terminals are accessible. Even when you
pull out the fuse, you can't touch any live parts. There is a plastic
cover over the terminals, with 4 slots for the blades of the cover to
plug into (like a big version of a 120vac plug and receptacle).

The cover slides inside the base quite a ways. When you unplug it under
load, the plug and socket are perhaps an inch apart before the cover
clears the base. The arc is already "stretched out" into two 1" arcs at
this point. The "flash" that John reported on the Zombie meant that he
*is* getting more than 2" long arcs when braking 300vdc at 1000 amps!

Finally racers like John Wayland have "tested" it for you, so you know
it works. John likes to say "We blow things up so you don't have to". :)

> You mention that you want to use general deep cycle
> batteries? Expect them to die during your first run,
> probably sending molten lead in all directions.

That would be likely for floodeds; but I think he said he was going with
AGMs. Premium AGMs could do it; but not floodeds.
--
Lee A. Hart | Ring the bells that still can ring
814 8th Ave N | Forget the perfect offering
Sartell MN 56377 | There is a crack in everything
leeahart earthlink.net | That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen

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Discussion Starter #12
On 8 Dec 2010 at 4:32, Cor van de Water wrote:

> You mention that you want to use general deep cycle batteries? Expect
> them to die during your first run, probably sending molten lead in all
> directions.

I'd be very surprised to see this happen. Golf car or flooded marine
batteries simply won't produce enough current. Their internal resistance is
too high.

FWIW, years ago, before AGM batteries became widely available, EV racers
often used SLI (starting) batteries because they were capable of producing
higher peak current than deep cycle batteries. They didn't last long, of
course; a few runs and they were ready for retirement.

David Roden
EVDL Administrator
http://www.evdl.org/


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Discussion Starter #13
Hey all,

This is good conversation, John picked a disconnect method that works and is
very cost effective. A breaker will also work but at a higher price. I have
a local supplier working on this as when I let it slip what the "fuse
holder" was going to be used for they were not too keen on letting me buy
one. But, they have an engineer look at this application to see if they can
help in some way. Lucky for me their are lots of suppliers for this fuse
holder.

Thanks again for all the info!

Casey

http://www.dssev.ca
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