Martin WINLOW <
[email protected]> wrote:
>
> On 13 Oct 2010, at 08:17, James Massey wrote:
>>
>> Helping a bloke with a Datsun ute conversion (1977 1200).
>>
>> We've a 9" ex-forklift (hydraulics) motor for him, and are going to
>> fabricate a new flywheel by welding a disk to a taperlock centre.
>> ...
>>
>> His Datsun flywheel has no steps, until it reaches the centre recess.
>> He's got some 10mm (3/8") plate that could be used for the new
>> flywheel,
>> but will that be thick enough?
>> ...
>>
>> [Technik] James
>>
>
>
> Yes. I used a piece of 6mm (quarter inch) mild steel plate on mine.
> When you consider how little work it'll be doing compared to its
> original spec, it will be fine.
>
> (Why weld it if you can bolt it?)
>
> Don't want to teach you to suck eggs here but unless you plan to turn
> down a reference shoulder on the hub and a matching one on the
> flywheel for concentricity and *then* weld it up, you need to be
> careful how you go about welding the one to the other and I suggest
> the following approach...
>
> Tack weld the plate on the hub, mount it in the lathe chuck (using the
> TLH to grip it - not the flywheel - and check the hub is dead on its
> axis and running true) and get the flywheel running true by knocking
> the plate about a bit with a hammer (GENTLY). If it's only a few
> thou' out then don't bother fiddling round just carry on welding.
> Then weld it up with runs of weld no more than 10mm or so at a time
> and each one nearly diametrically opposite the last (to minimize
> movement of the 2 pieces relative to each other from the heating and
> cooling of the welds). When you have finished, mount it in the lathe
> again (again via the TLH - again check the TLH is running true first)
> and skim the clutch side and the periphery of the flywheel for max
> balance. You probably won't need to worry about balancing beyond that
> as the weight is so much less than the original flywheel.
>
> To get the pressure plate centered on the flywheel, you might think
> about using the original flywheel mounted in the lathe chuck with
> pressure plate attached but spaced out 2mm from the flywheel with
> washers. Turn down the outside edge of the pressure plate to give a
> reference diameter. Then turn a VERY shallow (less than a mm) lip on
> the outside of the new flywheel such that the pressure plate JUST sits
> inside it - with absolutely NO PLAY - and then the pressure plate and
> flywheel will be nicely concentric. Bolt the 2 together by drilling
> through the original pressure plate bolt holes into the flywheel - no
> need for the dowels. You might want to use bolts with a minimal head
> on them ideally dome heads as I get a bit of a siren effect on my
> clutch above 3krpm which I think is caused by the bolts heads whipping
> past the only hole in the bell housing. Smoother dome headed bolts
> shouldn't cause so much air disruption inside the bell housing. I
> have a few pics of my set up here...
http://www.winlow.co.uk/wychwood.co.uk/EV_Conversion_-_Part_5.html
>
> I hope you aren't planning to put a monster motor/controller in there
> as the stock pressure plate won't take the torque - you'd have to up-
> rate it with a racing clutch - more clamping effect of the driven
> plate. My Belktronix 800A controller on an Netgain Impulse 9" will
> slip my stock clutch a bit at peak torque but it got contaminated with
> engine oil a while back so I'm not sure if it were a new disc it'd
> still do it. Even so I think 800A is about its limit. It is a fairly
> weeny clutch mind - it was driven by a 1300cc petrol engine originally.
>
> Regards, Martin Winlow
> Herts, UK
> http://www.evalbum.com/2092
> www.winlow.co.uk
>
>
>
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