James Massey wrote:
> Helping a bloke with a Datsun ute conversion (1977 1200).
> We've a 9" ex-forklift (hydraulics) motor for him, and are going to
> fabricate a new flywheel by welding a disk to a taperlock centre.
> His Datsun flywheel has no steps, until it reaches the centre recess.
> He's got some 10mm (3/8") plate that could be used for the new
> but will that be thick enough?
> [Technik] James
Yes. I used a piece of 6mm (quarter inch) mild steel plate on mine.
When you consider how little work it'll be doing compared to its
original spec, it will be fine.
(Why weld it if you can bolt it?)
Don't want to teach you to suck eggs here but unless you plan to turn
down a reference shoulder on the hub and a matching one on the
flywheel for concentricity and *then* weld it up, you need to be
careful how you go about welding the one to the other and I suggest
the following approach...
Tack weld the plate on the hub, mount it in the lathe chuck (using the
TLH to grip it - not the flywheel - and check the hub is dead on its
axis and running true) and get the flywheel running true by knocking
the plate about a bit with a hammer (GENTLY). If it's only a few
thou' out then don't bother fiddling round just carry on welding.
Then weld it up with runs of weld no more than 10mm or so at a time
and each one nearly diametrically opposite the last (to minimize
movement of the 2 pieces relative to each other from the heating and
cooling of the welds). When you have finished, mount it in the lathe
again (again via the TLH - again check the TLH is running true first)
and skim the clutch side and the periphery of the flywheel for max
balance. You probably won't need to worry about balancing beyond that
as the weight is so much less than the original flywheel.
To get the pressure plate centered on the flywheel, you might think
about using the original flywheel mounted in the lathe chuck with
pressure plate attached but spaced out 2mm from the flywheel with
washers. Turn down the outside edge of the pressure plate to give a
reference diameter. Then turn a VERY shallow (less than a mm) lip on
the outside of the new flywheel such that the pressure plate JUST sits
inside it - with absolutely NO PLAY - and then the pressure plate and
flywheel will be nicely concentric. Bolt the 2 together by drilling
through the original pressure plate bolt holes into the flywheel - no
need for the dowels. You might want to use bolts with a minimal head
on them ideally dome heads as I get a bit of a siren effect on my
clutch above 3krpm which I think is caused by the bolts heads whipping
past the only hole in the bell housing. Smoother dome headed bolts
shouldn't cause so much air disruption inside the bell housing. I
have a few pics of my set up here... http://www.winlow.co.uk/wychwood.co.uk/EV_Conversion_-_Part_5.html
I hope you aren't planning to put a monster motor/controller in there
as the stock pressure plate won't take the torque - you'd have to up-
rate it with a racing clutch - more clamping effect of the driven
plate. My Belktronix 800A controller on an Netgain Impulse 9" will
slip my stock clutch a bit at peak torque but it got contaminated with
engine oil a while back so I'm not sure if it were a new disc it'd
still do it. Even so I think 800A is about its limit. It is a fairly
weeny clutch mind - it was driven by a 1300cc petrol engine originally.
Regards, Martin Winlow
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