--- ampaynz1 <
[email protected]> wrote:
>
> Well I got a kelly controller serial version - non
> regen 84 volts 600A limit.
> I just finished installing it all last night
> 11-19-07. Still need a little
> more work and more chargers and one for accessory
> battery. The motor I am
> using is one of those old aircraft generators made
> in 1951 on a 1995 geo
> metro. I have only taken it on one test drive and
> could easily get to
> 35-37mph in 2nd gear using 78V pack. I also bought
> a serial (called
> something else too) to USB adaptor $5 on ebay to
> program it. The computer
> laptop connected just fine with this and using their
> adaptor and their cable
> and I lowered peak amps to 85% of max. It gives
> options for throttle
> position and options for throttle sensitivity too.
> Plus, it gives an option
> for throttle switch in the program. I turned this
> ON, but am going to turn
> it back off. This is the reason why. Several times
> when I let off the pedal
> and pushed down on it again it hesitated and did
> nothing or really took off
> fast. When the controller hesitated I could lift my
> foot off the pedal for
> 1/2 second and it would act like normal again. If I
> turn off this optional
> throttle switch, then the problem goes away, then
> thats my solution.
> Controller has a .5 sec delay in starting up when
> turned on. If I still have
> this problem, then I plan on running a 2nd relay and
> use two 12 gauge wires
> to power the 24V separate field. Right now I just
> have one 12V relay
> powering the field with a separate 24V batteries.
> Without a separate 24V
> battery pack, the motor won't even move and
> controller goes into current
> overload for sometime and LEDs start to flash. It'll
> stop flashing after
> some time of non use. This really doesn't apply to
> any real serial motor. I
> mistakenly drove it for a few miles this way with
> just using a jumper like
> e-volks shown. Well controller got so hot it went
> into current overload and
> I could fill it reduce output power. I was able to
> go 15mph max with just a
> jumper off 24V +. If I can fix that hesitation
> problem, then I'll be happy.
> I did notice taking off in 2ng gear gave a very
> reduced torque reaction and
> didn't really use much more power to take off. One
> thing I did was simply
> follow their schematic exactly in the manual. For
> 24V power I just tapped
> off the 24V battery part of the traction pack. Of
> course using a converter
> is the correct way and is $100 more for it. I also
> used a 450 amp rectifier
> diode as a Flyback diode over the motor's positive
> and negative. I think
> this is very important to prevent controller over
> voltage burnout and more
> so on generator's. It real simple to do, go from
> motor + and connect side of
> diode that does not conduct, then go from motor's
> negative and connect side
> that does conduct current. I had to wear gloves
> since the precharge resistor
> I used of 400 ohm and 10 watts caused a little
> tickle when messing with
> those cables. One thing to note is the main
> contactor closes when controller
> is turned on and never is opened (disconnects) until
> controller is turned
> off. I used a 24relay to control my contactor
> because I am using surplus 60V
> coil Albright contactor. Plus, I didn't feel like to
> recoiling it to 24V. I
> plan on driving it 25 miles today and will have more
> data.
>
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