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70 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'm trying to troubleshoot a short in my electric car.I have a 1966 P=
orsche =

that was converted by the previous opwner using an Electro Automotive "univ=
ersal =

kit" with a Netgain Warp 9 motor. The car is located in San Jose, CA.=
The =

short results in 100%power loss to the motor. I can usually drive the ca=
r about =

3-5 miles before the fuse blows. When I repalce the fuse, and turn the igni=
tion, =

the fuse will immediately blow again, but if I wait ~10 minutes, the fuse =

usually will not blow until I drive another 3-5 miles. I traced the wire =

looking for it to be exposed and touching metal somewhere, but I wasn't abl=
e to =

find anything. I now suspect that one of the following components might be =

heating up and causing an internal short.

1. Key Switch / Battery Isolator Relay
2. Charger Interlock Relay
3. Voltage Converter

If anyone can help, or offer advice on where to look for help, I would grea=
tly =

appreciate it. My contact info is below ...

Matt Wegner
[email protected]
408-859-9924


=

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Discussion Starter #2
On 14 Sep 2010 at 15:24, Matt Wegner wrote:

> I can usually drive the car about 3-5 miles before the fuse blows. When
> I replace the fuse, and turn the ignition, the fuse will immediately
> blow again, but if I wait ~10 minutes, the fuse usually will not blow
> until I drive another 3-5 miles.

That's an odd one!

Get a rubber Edison base light bulb socket with pigtails. Put alligator
clips on the pigtails, and fit a ~40-60 watt bulb. Keep it in the car
(protect the bulb from breakage of course).

Next time this happens, immediately remove the fuse and replace it with the
test light. Now instead of blowing the fuse, your test light will come on
fairly brightly to indicate the short circuit is still present. Now you can
disconnect various items in the traction circuit in turn, to isolate where
the problem is.

This way, you should be able to determine what component (or area of wiring)
is causing the problem.

David Roden
EVDL Administrator
http://www.evdl.org/


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Discussion Starter #3
Hi Matt,

You do mean the enormous 400A or more MAIN TRACTION CIRCUIT fuse,
don't you? EA refer to it as a 'fusible link'...

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(from their website).

Regards, Martin.




Matt Wegner wrote:

> I'm trying to troubleshoot a short in my electric car. I have a
> 1966 Porsche
> that was converted by the previous opwner using an Electro
> Automotive "universal
> kit" with a Netgain Warp 9 motor. The car is located in San Jose,
> CA. The
> short results in 100% power loss to the motor. I can usually drive
> the car about
> 3-5 miles before the fuse blows. When I repalce the fuse, and turn
> the ignition,
> the fuse will immediately blow again, but if I wait ~10 minutes, the
> fuse
> usually will not blow until I drive another 3-5 miles. I traced the
> wire
> looking for it to be exposed and touching metal somewhere, but I
> wasn't able to
> find anything. I now suspect that one of the following components
> might be
> heating up and causing an internal short.
>
> 1. Key Switch / Battery Isolator Relay
> 2. Charger Interlock Relay
> 3. Voltage Converter
>
> If anyone can help, or offer advice on where to look for help, I
> would greatly
> appreciate it. My contact info is below ...
>
> Matt Wegner
> [email protected]
> 408-859-9924
>
>
>
> -------------- next part --------------
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> URL: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/private/ev/attachments/20100914/ad87940f/attachment.html
> _______________________________________________
> | REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
> | Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
> | UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
> | OTHER HELP: http://evdl.org/help/
> | OPTIONS: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev

Regards, Martin Winlow
Herts, UK
http://www.evalbum.com/2092
www.winlow.co.uk



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