Hello Frank,
My EV has driven a alternator, power steering, A/C, vacuum pump and water
pump for heating many different ways. Originally, all these devices were
driven by a large motor, as big as a ADC 7 or 8 at a rpm of 1500 to 2000
rpm.
The problem here, I was going up a very steep long hill to work every day,
and when I came down, this vehicle would get up to 80 mph which became too
dangerous at times. There was no room to install the REGEN braking system.
It was test one time, by hanging a very large resistor off the front bumper
which was 18 inches long and 10 inches square. It got red hot on that test.
I then direct couple the pilot shaft to a accessory drive system. I use a
GMC diesel accessory mount that is normally mounted on the front of the
engine. I mounted this unit to a 1/2 thick aluminum plate that is bolted
down to a separate welded in cross members with eight rubber donut type
engine mounts.
There is a brackets and places that the GMC units fit, even a GMC vacuum
pump that works very good with a canister mount.
I found there was little drag on the motor while the A/C was off, and
alternator and power steering was at a lite load. During heavy loads, this
would increase my ampere-hour by about .5 ah.
The existing motor drive that was driving these accessories by mulitiple
belts would pull between 20 and 25 amps off the battery. So this is a
additional current pulling off the batteries.
Make sure the accessory drive motor feed lines do not come off before the
battery ampere shunt, but after the shunt, otherwise you will get a error in
battery ampere usage.
Now the advantage I had with this main motor direct drive system which use a
Dodge Dyna Flex coupler to a shaft that is mounted with two face bearings
that is mounted on both sides of the GMC accessory plate, is that when I let
up on the accelerator on a very step icy hill, and have the large inverter
alternator loaded up to provide 120 VAC 7 KW power to three heaters, three
fans and lighting, which now holds the EV at speed when going down the hill.
Looking at the battery amp and motor amp gages at this time, they all read 0
amps.
The third method I am using now, is the combination of small electric motors
driving each accessory plus still driving my a series of multiple belts
coming off a electric clutch that is mounted between the motor pilot shaft
and accessory drive unit. You can get this electric drive from Dodge Power
Transmission Inc which is a Device that is a inline shaft. Cost about
$1500.00. I was able to duplicated this electric clutch by modified one of
the large early model A/C pumps which has a longer shaft than the new pumps
have.
Install a grease fitting in this A/C unit and pack it with white wheel
bearing grease. Its been working great for about 4 months now, since I
install it.
I am using four IOTA DC-DC converters connected in series/parallel to
provide 24 to 28 volts to the separate drive motors on each accessory. A
good motor I found is a 24 volt DC 1/2 HP that is a totally enclosed motor
from Currie Technologies use on there Ebikes. There source is
[email protected] or 1 800 377 4532.
This motor has a internal gear of about 3 to 1 ratio and installing taper
lock pulley to provide another 3 to 1 ratio, you have plenty of power with
this motor. One motor will get me up to 15 mph with my bike in a very fast
jerk.
I haven't finish wiring up the electric motors yet, except the power
steering is a electric driven anyway. Now the way this system will work, is
when the main motor is under power, a micro switch on the accelerator
disconnects the electric clutch drive and turns on the DC-DC contactors to
the accessory electric motors.
When the accelerator is let up while coasting, then the electric clutch is
engage and the accessory motors go off the line, and again motor and battery
ampere is reading 0 amps.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frank John" <
[email protected]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <
[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2007 6:52 AM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Modified alternator for use in EV
> Hi ****,
>
> Maybe someone else replied and I missed it - but I believe that as long as
> the electric motor is still connected physically to the rest of the
> drivetrain it will spin anything connected to it via chain or coupling.
> The motor itself will freewheel i.e. offer no resistance other than
> minimal bearing resistance, windage, etc. but would still drive an
> alternator or other accessory.
>
> Can you post details on your alternator conversion? There's several folks
> here who regen into their 12 volt accessory battery or run other
> accessories but regenning into the traction pack has lots of advantages
> that I can see (and is an idea that I'm exploring as well).
>
> Frank
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