Roland Wiench <
[email protected]> wrote:
> Hello Dave,
>
> I use Burndy Penetrox A - Cat.No. P8A. comes in 8 FL. OZ. squeeze bottle.
> This compound is use in high compression terminals and fittings to work.
> If
> both the wire, the wire terminal and the contact arear are plated and not
> in
> a wet area, you can get by without it.
>
> If you need to connect the ground conductor to a bare steel box, first
> abrade the contact surfaces. Do not abrade plated connectors,
>
> You can get a similar compound from some hardware stores.
>
> You can also use this compound on copper to copper, copper to aluminum and
> aluminum to aluminum connections that can at least with stand a high
> pressure contact. Do not use it on lead battery post where the torque
> level
> ranges from 50 to 100 inch pounds. You must have least 25 foot pounds for
> it
> to work. I tried on a lead post and there is a increase resistance at his
> low pressure.
>
> You have to applied enough pressure, so the metal alloy in this paste
> contacts the surface of the connector, while it displaces the
> anti-corrosive
> compound.
>
> Roland
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "dave cover" <
[email protected]>
> To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <
[email protected]>
> Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2011 7:57 AM
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] power meters
>
>
> Roland
>
> In this post you mentioned contact aid. "Use contact aid between the
> metal box and the wire terminal pads."
>
> What do you use? I picked up some but I'm not sure if it's the best.
> It seems to protect bare copper pretty good and I haven't seen any
> performance issues, but I'd like to know what's best.
>
> Thanks
>
> Dave Cover
>
> On Thu, Jan 13, 2011 at 9:25 AM, Roland Wiench <
[email protected]> wrote:
>> To run a meter that is normally use on 120/240 60HZ single phase, you
>> install a jumper across the line lugs from Line 1 (L1) to Line 2 (L2).
>> Install the 120 volt L1 to the jumper incoming LINE lugs that are at the
>> top. Install the neutral to the solid neutral bar that is between the
>> line
>> lug sockets.
>>
>> In some meters, you may not have to install the jumper, but you must
>> install
>> the incoming LINE wire to the correct LINE lug. The meter motor taps off
>> the LOAD side of the which normally runs on 120 volts. There are some
>> meters motors that are design to run on 240 volts or higher.
>>
>> Install the ground wire to the grounding lug that is on the side if it
>> has
>> one of the meter box. If the ground bar is not factory install as was
>> done
>> awhile back in the old meters, you can install two set screw wire lug
>> that
>> the terminal pads are bolt together and bonded to clean metal surface of
>> the
>> meter box. Use contact aid between the metal box and the wire terminal
>> pads.
>>
>> Install a ground bonding strap or wire from the solid neutral bar to the
>> grounding bond. In a new meter, there is a factory install ground bar
>> with
>> a grounding strap to the neutral.
>>
>> On the load lug side of the meter, you take off one side of the LOAD lugs
>> with the HOT, LINE, or PHASE wire which could be call the black wire. In
>> some meters, it will depend which LOAD lug you connect the load to.
>>
>> I would take the meter to the local power company meter shop and they can
>> show you which side to connect to and if it needs a jumper.
>>
>> Roland
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "m gol" <
[email protected]>
>> To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <
[email protected]>
>> Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2011 4:45 AM
>> Subject: [EVDL] power meters
>>
>>
>>> I got this charger that can take either 120 or 220 volts...
>>>
>>> I wanted to mount a "home meter"... like these
>>> http://www.hialeahmeter.com/siphwame.html
>>>
>>> However, it seems 120 and 220 are wired differently for the meters....
>>>
>>> any one have a suggestion? besides two meters?
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>
>
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