DIY Electric Car Forums banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I got this charger that can take either 120 or 220 volts...

I wanted to mount a "home meter"... like these
http://www.hialeahmeter.com/siphwame.html

However, it seems 120 and 220 are wired differently for the meters....

any one have a suggestion? besides two meters?
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/private/ev/attachments/20110113/d7d22fef/attachment.html
_______________________________________________
| REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
| Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
| UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
| OTHER HELP: http://evdl.org/help/
| OPTIONS: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
I'm not a residential electrician but... The problem you might have with
those meters is that they expect you to be using three wire 240 or two wire
120. Presumably your car's charger will have only three wires (hot, neutral,
ground) and expect 2 wire 240 or 2 wire 120. You might be able to hook two
wire 240 up to the meter by using only one side of the meter but I'm not so
sure that the meter is rated to actually have 240V on one side of it. 240
three wire is two 120 leads in opposing phase so each side of the meter only
ever sees 120v even in the case of 240v service. I suppose you could still
hook three wire 240 up to your charger but then you'd have to omit the
neutral leg and just use the two hot wires. Or am I missing something? What
sort of 240 do you expect to use?

m gol <[email protected]> wrote:

> I got this charger that can take either 120 or 220 volts...
>
> I wanted to mount a "home meter"... like these
> http://www.hialeahmeter.com/siphwame.html
>
> However, it seems 120 and 220 are wired differently for the meters....
>
> any one have a suggestion? besides two meters?
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/private/ev/attachments/20110113/d7d22fef/attachment.html
> _______________________________________________
> | REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
> | Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
> | UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
> | OTHER HELP: http://evdl.org/help/
> | OPTIONS: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/private/ev/attachments/20110113/d0792a40/attachment.html
_______________________________________________
| REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
| Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
| UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
| OTHER HELP: http://evdl.org/help/
| OPTIONS: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
To run a meter that is normally use on 120/240 60HZ single phase, you
install a jumper across the line lugs from Line 1 (L1) to Line 2 (L2).
Install the 120 volt L1 to the jumper incoming LINE lugs that are at the
top. Install the neutral to the solid neutral bar that is between the line
lug sockets.

In some meters, you may not have to install the jumper, but you must install
the incoming LINE wire to the correct LINE lug. The meter motor taps off
the LOAD side of the which normally runs on 120 volts. There are some
meters motors that are design to run on 240 volts or higher.

Install the ground wire to the grounding lug that is on the side if it has
one of the meter box. If the ground bar is not factory install as was done
awhile back in the old meters, you can install two set screw wire lug that
the terminal pads are bolt together and bonded to clean metal surface of the
meter box. Use contact aid between the metal box and the wire terminal
pads.

Install a ground bonding strap or wire from the solid neutral bar to the
grounding bond. In a new meter, there is a factory install ground bar with
a grounding strap to the neutral.

On the load lug side of the meter, you take off one side of the LOAD lugs
with the HOT, LINE, or PHASE wire which could be call the black wire. In
some meters, it will depend which LOAD lug you connect the load to.

I would take the meter to the local power company meter shop and they can
show you which side to connect to and if it needs a jumper.

Roland




----- Original Message -----
From: "m gol" <[email protected]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2011 4:45 AM
Subject: [EVDL] power meters


> I got this charger that can take either 120 or 220 volts...
>
> I wanted to mount a "home meter"... like these
> http://www.hialeahmeter.com/siphwame.html
>
> However, it seems 120 and 220 are wired differently for the meters....
>
> any one have a suggestion? besides two meters?
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/private/ev/attachments/20110113/d7d22fef/attachment.html
> _______________________________________________
> | REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
> | Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
> | UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
> | OTHER HELP: http://evdl.org/help/
> | OPTIONS: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>

_______________________________________________
| REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
| Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
| UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
| OTHER HELP: http://evdl.org/help/
| OPTIONS: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Hello,
Those are regular 4 terminal meters. That type were used for the past
60 years by utility companies. they are very accurate and automatically
compensate for varying voltages from about 95 to 280 input the two top lines
are input and two bottom lines go to load. the kilowatt hours read on the
dials always increasing so if you feed backwards thru them the results
varied by make and model, best to always go forward for predictable results.
Should work great with your charger. Most compact connection is a round can
type with four spring clips the prongs on the back of the meter push into.
Available from wholesale Electrical supply houses. (The can and socket will
cost more than these meters!) You might drill the connecting spades and bolt
your wires on and cover with shrink tubing.

Regards,
*Dennis Lee Miles* (Director) *E.V.T.I. inc*.
*www.E-V-T-I-Inc.COM <http://www.e-v-t-i-inc.com/> *(Adviser)*
EVTI-EVAEducation Chapter
*
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
The "Stone Age" didn't end because they ran out of Stones;
It ended because they started using their Brains !
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

m gol <[email protected]> wrote:

> I got this charger that can take either 120 or 220 volts...
>
> I wanted to mount a "home meter"... like these
> http://www.hialeahmeter.com/siphwame.html
>
> However, it seems 120 and 220 are wired differently for the meters....
>
> any one have a suggestion? besides two meters?
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/private/ev/attachments/20110113/d7d22fef/attachment.html
> _______________________________________________
> | REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
> | Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
> | UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
> | OTHER HELP: http://evdl.org/help/
> | OPTIONS: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>



--
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/private/ev/attachments/20110113/b7d9a38d/attachment.html
_______________________________________________
| REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
| Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
| UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
| OTHER HELP: http://evdl.org/help/
| OPTIONS: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Roland

In this post you mentioned contact aid. "Use contact aid between the
metal box and the wire terminal pads."

What do you use? I picked up some but I'm not sure if it's the best.
It seems to protect bare copper pretty good and I haven't seen any
performance issues, but I'd like to know what's best.

Thanks

Dave Cover

Roland Wiench <[email protected]> wrote:
> To run a meter that is normally use on 120/240 60HZ single phase, you
> install a jumper across the line lugs from Line 1 (L1) to Line 2 (L2).
> Install the 120 volt L1 to the jumper incoming LINE lugs that are at the
> top. Install the neutral to the solid neutral bar that is between the =
line
> lug sockets.
>
> In some meters, you may not have to install the jumper, but you must inst=
all
> the incoming LINE wire to the correct LINE lug. The meter motor taps o=
ff
> the LOAD side of the which normally runs on 120 volts. There are some
> meters motors that are design to run on 240 volts or higher.
>
> Install the ground wire to the grounding lug that is on the side if it has
> one of the meter box. If the ground bar is not factory install as was =
done
> awhile back in the old meters, you can install two set screw wire lug that
> the terminal pads are bolt together and bonded to clean metal surface of =
the
> meter box. Use contact aid between the metal box and the wire terminal
> pads.
>
> Install a ground bonding strap or wire from the solid neutral bar to the
> grounding bond. In a new meter, there is a factory install ground bar =
with
> a grounding strap to the neutral.
>
> On the load lug side of the meter, you take off one side of the LOAD lugs
> with the HOT, LINE, or PHASE wire which could be call the black wire. =
In
> some meters, it will depend which LOAD lug you connect the load to.
>
> I would take the meter to the local power company meter shop and they can
> show you which side to connect to and if it needs a jumper.
>
> Roland
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "m gol" <[email protected]>
> To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
> Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2011 4:45 AM
> Subject: [EVDL] power meters
>
>
>> I got this charger that can take either 120 or 220 volts...
>>
>> I wanted to mount a "home meter"... like these
>> http://www.hialeahmeter.com/siphwame.html
>>
>> However, it seems 120 and 220 are wired differently for the meters....
>>
>> any one have a suggestion? besides two meters?
>> -------------- next part --------------
>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> URL:
>> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/private/ev/attachments/20110113/d7d22fef/a=
ttachment.html
>> _______________________________________________
>> | REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
>> | Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
>> | UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
>> | OTHER HELP: http://evdl.org/help/
>> | OPTIONS: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> | REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
> | Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
> | UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
> | OTHER HELP: http://evdl.org/help/
> | OPTIONS: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>



-- =

http://www.evalbum.com/2149

_______________________________________________
| REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
| Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
| UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
| OTHER HELP: http://evdl.org/help/
| OPTIONS: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Hello Dave,

I use Burndy Penetrox A - Cat.No. P8A. comes in 8 FL. OZ. squeeze bottle.
This compound is use in high compression terminals and fittings to work. If
both the wire, the wire terminal and the contact arear are plated and not in
a wet area, you can get by without it.

If you need to connect the ground conductor to a bare steel box, first
abrade the contact surfaces. Do not abrade plated connectors,

You can get a similar compound from some hardware stores.

You can also use this compound on copper to copper, copper to aluminum and
aluminum to aluminum connections that can at least with stand a high
pressure contact. Do not use it on lead battery post where the torque level
ranges from 50 to 100 inch pounds. You must have least 25 foot pounds for it
to work. I tried on a lead post and there is a increase resistance at his
low pressure.

You have to applied enough pressure, so the metal alloy in this paste
contacts the surface of the connector, while it displaces the anti-corrosive
compound.

Roland


----- Original Message -----
From: "dave cover" <[email protected]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2011 7:57 AM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] power meters


Roland

In this post you mentioned contact aid. "Use contact aid between the
metal box and the wire terminal pads."

What do you use? I picked up some but I'm not sure if it's the best.
It seems to protect bare copper pretty good and I haven't seen any
performance issues, but I'd like to know what's best.

Thanks

Dave Cover

Roland Wiench <[email protected]> wrote:
> To run a meter that is normally use on 120/240 60HZ single phase, you
> install a jumper across the line lugs from Line 1 (L1) to Line 2 (L2).
> Install the 120 volt L1 to the jumper incoming LINE lugs that are at the
> top. Install the neutral to the solid neutral bar that is between the line
> lug sockets.
>
> In some meters, you may not have to install the jumper, but you must
> install
> the incoming LINE wire to the correct LINE lug. The meter motor taps off
> the LOAD side of the which normally runs on 120 volts. There are some
> meters motors that are design to run on 240 volts or higher.
>
> Install the ground wire to the grounding lug that is on the side if it has
> one of the meter box. If the ground bar is not factory install as was done
> awhile back in the old meters, you can install two set screw wire lug that
> the terminal pads are bolt together and bonded to clean metal surface of
> the
> meter box. Use contact aid between the metal box and the wire terminal
> pads.
>
> Install a ground bonding strap or wire from the solid neutral bar to the
> grounding bond. In a new meter, there is a factory install ground bar with
> a grounding strap to the neutral.
>
> On the load lug side of the meter, you take off one side of the LOAD lugs
> with the HOT, LINE, or PHASE wire which could be call the black wire. In
> some meters, it will depend which LOAD lug you connect the load to.
>
> I would take the meter to the local power company meter shop and they can
> show you which side to connect to and if it needs a jumper.
>
> Roland
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "m gol" <[email protected]>
> To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
> Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2011 4:45 AM
> Subject: [EVDL] power meters
>
>
>> I got this charger that can take either 120 or 220 volts...
>>
>> I wanted to mount a "home meter"... like these
>> http://www.hialeahmeter.com/siphwame.html
>>
>> However, it seems 120 and 220 are wired differently for the meters....
>>
>> any one have a suggestion? besides two meters?
>> -------------- next part --------------
>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> URL:
>> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/private/ev/attachments/20110113/d7d22fef/attachment.html
>> _______________________________________________
>> | REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
>> | Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
>> | UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
>> | OTHER HELP: http://evdl.org/help/
>> | OPTIONS: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> | REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
> | Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
> | UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
> | OTHER HELP: http://evdl.org/help/
> | OPTIONS: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>



--
http://www.evalbum.com/2149

_______________________________________________
| REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
| Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
| UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
| OTHER HELP: http://evdl.org/help/
| OPTIONS: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev

_______________________________________________
| REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
| Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
| UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
| OTHER HELP: http://evdl.org/help/
| OPTIONS: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Roland

Have you heard of No-Ox-Id A Special by by Sanchem, Inc.? It's
supposed to be good for protecting metal and it's not supposed to
interfere with electrical connections. My pack feels about the same as
before I applied it, and it does a pretty good job of protecting bare
copper from the NiCad electrolite. But if Penetrox protects copper and
it makes a better connection, I might try it.

The only problem I see is the "high compression" requirement. My buss
bars are connected by 10-32 bolts. Not exactly high compression.

Dave Cover

Roland Wiench <[email protected]> wrote:
> Hello Dave,
>
> I use Burndy Penetrox A - Cat.No. P8A. comes in 8 FL. OZ. squeeze bottle.
> This compound is use in high compression terminals and fittings to work. =
If
> both the wire, the wire terminal and the contact arear are plated and not=
in
> a wet area, you can get by without it.
>
> If you need to connect the ground conductor to a bare steel box, first
> abrade the contact surfaces. Do not abrade plated connectors,
>
> You can get a similar compound from some hardware stores.
>
> You can also use this compound on copper to copper, copper to aluminum and
> aluminum to aluminum connections that can at least with stand a high
> pressure contact. Do not use it on lead battery post where the torque =
level
> ranges from 50 to 100 inch pounds. You must have least 25 foot pounds for=
it
> to work. I tried on a lead post and there is a increase resistance at =
his
> low pressure.
>
> You have to applied enough pressure, so the metal alloy in this paste
> contacts the surface of the connector, while it displaces the anti-corros=
ive
> compound.
>
> Roland
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "dave cover" <[email protected]>
> To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
> Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2011 7:57 AM
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] power meters
>
>
> Roland
>
> In this post you mentioned contact aid. "Use contact aid between the
> metal box and the wire terminal pads."
>
> What do you use? I picked up some but I'm not sure if it's the best.
> It seems to protect bare copper pretty good and I haven't seen any
> performance issues, but I'd like to know what's best.
>
> Thanks
>
> Dave Cover
>
> On Thu, Jan 13, 2011 at 9:25 AM, Roland Wiench <[email protected]> wrote:
>> To run a meter that is normally use on 120/240 60HZ single phase, you
>> install a jumper across the line lugs from Line 1 (L1) to Line 2 (L2).
>> Install the 120 volt L1 to the jumper incoming LINE lugs that are at the
>> top. Install the neutral to the solid neutral bar that is between the li=
ne
>> lug sockets.
>>
>> In some meters, you may not have to install the jumper, but you must
>> install
>> the incoming LINE wire to the correct LINE lug. The meter motor taps off
>> the LOAD side of the which normally runs on 120 volts. There are some
>> meters motors that are design to run on 240 volts or higher.
>>
>> Install the ground wire to the grounding lug that is on the side if it h=
as
>> one of the meter box. If the ground bar is not factory install as was do=
ne
>> awhile back in the old meters, you can install two set screw wire lug th=
at
>> the terminal pads are bolt together and bonded to clean metal surface of
>> the
>> meter box. Use contact aid between the metal box and the wire terminal
>> pads.
>>
>> Install a ground bonding strap or wire from the solid neutral bar to the
>> grounding bond. In a new meter, there is a factory install ground bar wi=
th
>> a grounding strap to the neutral.
>>
>> On the load lug side of the meter, you take off one side of the LOAD lugs
>> with the HOT, LINE, or PHASE wire which could be call the black wire. In
>> some meters, it will depend which LOAD lug you connect the load to.
>>
>> I would take the meter to the local power company meter shop and they can
>> show you which side to connect to and if it needs a jumper.
>>
>> Roland
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "m gol" <[email protected]>
>> To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
>> Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2011 4:45 AM
>> Subject: [EVDL] power meters
>>
>>
>>> I got this charger that can take either 120 or 220 volts...
>>>
>>> I wanted to mount a "home meter"... like these
>>> http://www.hialeahmeter.com/siphwame.html
>>>
>>> However, it seems 120 and 220 are wired differently for the meters....
>>>
>>> any one have a suggestion? besides two meters?
>>> -------------- next part --------------
>>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>>> URL:
>>> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/private/ev/attachments/20110113/d7d22fef/=
attachment.html
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> | REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
>>> | Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
>>> | UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
>>> | OTHER HELP: http://evdl.org/help/
>>> | OPTIONS: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> | REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
>> | Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
>> | UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
>> | OTHER HELP: http://evdl.org/help/
>> | OPTIONS: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>>
>
>
>
> --
> http://www.evalbum.com/2149
>
> _______________________________________________
> | REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
> | Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
> | UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
> | OTHER HELP: http://evdl.org/help/
> | OPTIONS: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
> _______________________________________________
> | REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
> | Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
> | UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
> | OTHER HELP: http://evdl.org/help/
> | OPTIONS: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>



-- =

http://www.evalbum.com/2149

_______________________________________________
| REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
| Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
| UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
| OTHER HELP: http://evdl.org/help/
| OPTIONS: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Hello Dave,

Do not use the Penetrox on these low pressure connections that you cannot
get a high pressure contact. The 10/32 inch bolts are only rated between 50
inch lbs for a brass bolt and up to 100 inch lbs for a titanium aircraft
bolt.

The Penetrox can be use on a plated 5/16 inch diameter grade 5 diameter bolt
which can be torque to 25 foot lbs.

Use the No-Ox-Id compound on low compression connections.

In our electrical work, we are specified to use the Penetrox or equal
compound which we normally use with high power crimpers and tools.

Roland




----- Original Message -----
From: "dave cover" <[email protected]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2011 3:48 PM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] power meters


Roland

Have you heard of No-Ox-Id A Special by by Sanchem, Inc.? It's
supposed to be good for protecting metal and it's not supposed to
interfere with electrical connections. My pack feels about the same as
before I applied it, and it does a pretty good job of protecting bare
copper from the NiCad electrolite. But if Penetrox protects copper and
it makes a better connection, I might try it.

The only problem I see is the "high compression" requirement. My buss
bars are connected by 10-32 bolts. Not exactly high compression.

Dave Cover

Roland Wiench <[email protected]> wrote:
> Hello Dave,
>
> I use Burndy Penetrox A - Cat.No. P8A. comes in 8 FL. OZ. squeeze bottle.
> This compound is use in high compression terminals and fittings to work.
> If
> both the wire, the wire terminal and the contact arear are plated and not
> in
> a wet area, you can get by without it.
>
> If you need to connect the ground conductor to a bare steel box, first
> abrade the contact surfaces. Do not abrade plated connectors,
>
> You can get a similar compound from some hardware stores.
>
> You can also use this compound on copper to copper, copper to aluminum and
> aluminum to aluminum connections that can at least with stand a high
> pressure contact. Do not use it on lead battery post where the torque
> level
> ranges from 50 to 100 inch pounds. You must have least 25 foot pounds for
> it
> to work. I tried on a lead post and there is a increase resistance at his
> low pressure.
>
> You have to applied enough pressure, so the metal alloy in this paste
> contacts the surface of the connector, while it displaces the
> anti-corrosive
> compound.
>
> Roland
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "dave cover" <[email protected]>
> To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
> Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2011 7:57 AM
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] power meters
>
>
> Roland
>
> In this post you mentioned contact aid. "Use contact aid between the
> metal box and the wire terminal pads."
>
> What do you use? I picked up some but I'm not sure if it's the best.
> It seems to protect bare copper pretty good and I haven't seen any
> performance issues, but I'd like to know what's best.
>
> Thanks
>
> Dave Cover
>
> On Thu, Jan 13, 2011 at 9:25 AM, Roland Wiench <[email protected]> wrote:
>> To run a meter that is normally use on 120/240 60HZ single phase, you
>> install a jumper across the line lugs from Line 1 (L1) to Line 2 (L2).
>> Install the 120 volt L1 to the jumper incoming LINE lugs that are at the
>> top. Install the neutral to the solid neutral bar that is between the
>> line
>> lug sockets.
>>
>> In some meters, you may not have to install the jumper, but you must
>> install
>> the incoming LINE wire to the correct LINE lug. The meter motor taps off
>> the LOAD side of the which normally runs on 120 volts. There are some
>> meters motors that are design to run on 240 volts or higher.
>>
>> Install the ground wire to the grounding lug that is on the side if it
>> has
>> one of the meter box. If the ground bar is not factory install as was
>> done
>> awhile back in the old meters, you can install two set screw wire lug
>> that
>> the terminal pads are bolt together and bonded to clean metal surface of
>> the
>> meter box. Use contact aid between the metal box and the wire terminal
>> pads.
>>
>> Install a ground bonding strap or wire from the solid neutral bar to the
>> grounding bond. In a new meter, there is a factory install ground bar
>> with
>> a grounding strap to the neutral.
>>
>> On the load lug side of the meter, you take off one side of the LOAD lugs
>> with the HOT, LINE, or PHASE wire which could be call the black wire. In
>> some meters, it will depend which LOAD lug you connect the load to.
>>
>> I would take the meter to the local power company meter shop and they can
>> show you which side to connect to and if it needs a jumper.
>>
>> Roland
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "m gol" <[email protected]>
>> To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
>> Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2011 4:45 AM
>> Subject: [EVDL] power meters
>>
>>
>>> I got this charger that can take either 120 or 220 volts...
>>>
>>> I wanted to mount a "home meter"... like these
>>> http://www.hialeahmeter.com/siphwame.html
>>>
>>> However, it seems 120 and 220 are wired differently for the meters....
>>>
>>> any one have a suggestion? besides two meters?
>>> -------------- next part --------------
>>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>>> URL:
>>> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/private/ev/attachments/20110113/d7d22fef/attachment.html
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> | REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
>>> | Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
>>> | UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
>>> | OTHER HELP: http://evdl.org/help/
>>> | OPTIONS: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> | REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
>> | Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
>> | UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
>> | OTHER HELP: http://evdl.org/help/
>> | OPTIONS: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>>
>
>
>
> --
> http://www.evalbum.com/2149
>
> _______________________________________________
> | REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
> | Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
> | UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
> | OTHER HELP: http://evdl.org/help/
> | OPTIONS: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
> _______________________________________________
> | REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
> | Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
> | UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
> | OTHER HELP: http://evdl.org/help/
> | OPTIONS: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>



--
http://www.evalbum.com/2149

_______________________________________________
| REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
| Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
| UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
| OTHER HELP: http://evdl.org/help/
| OPTIONS: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev

_______________________________________________
| REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
| Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
| UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
| OTHER HELP: http://evdl.org/help/
| OPTIONS: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top