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70 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'm getting an occasional noise from around the front right springs/tie rod=
s, etc. that sounds like a "stretching". I'd gather we start at ball joi=
nts and tie rods? Any great ideas on where to start? Nothing obvious app=
earing.
Thanks!

Thinking about converting a gen. 5 ('92-95) Honda Civic? See http://home.bu=
dget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html for DVD and tons more info!
____ =

__/__|__\__ =

=3DD-------/ - - \ =

'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering whe=
el?
OR Lic. "LCTRNS"



=

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Discussion Starter #2
Grease everything first if you can (unfortunately many modern cars don't have
grease fittings any more).




________________________________
From: Bob Bath <[email protected]>
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <[email protected]>
Sent: Fri, December 17, 2010 11:24:02 PM
Subject: [EVDL] Suspension issues with EVs?

I'm getting an occasional noise from around the front right springs/tie rods,
etc. that sounds like a "stretching". I'd gather we start at ball joints and
tie rods? Any great ideas on where to start? Nothing obvious appearing. Thanks!
...



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Discussion Starter #3
Hello Bob,

You could bring up a web site on your vehicle, where you can type in the
problem and it will bring up fixes.

Here is a example what to look for during certain conditions:

Vehicle rolling at a constant speed on smooth road and if there is a noise
then it may be a wheel bearing. Fix: check the wheel bearing clearances by
backing off the wheel bearing nut and turn it back on until it just touches.
Then turn the nut from 3/4 to 1 turn so the the nut alignment key pin holes
match up.

Another noise while a vehicle is running smoothly on any surface is the
anti-rattle spring that is attach to the brake pad for disk brakes. If this
spring is weak, then the disk pad may rub on the disk at times which is a
simple fix. Normally when this happens, it best to change out the brake
pads with a kit that comes with this spring. This is also a indicator that
the pads should be change.

Also, all the expose rubber bushings could be the problem. This is the
first thing I look at. There are rubber bushings on both ends of the shocks
mounts. The stabilizer bar may have up to six rubber bushings on both ends.
Then there is the spring pad cushions where the spring seats into it.

While I am looking at these bushings, I will spray them with a Teflon
lubricant to see if that works.

There is also equal arm suspension fittings that also have rubber bushings.
I finally had to replace all my bushings after 25 years of driving my
vehicle.

Roland


----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Bath" <[email protected]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, December 17, 2010 10:24 PM
Subject: [EVDL] Suspension issues with EVs?


I'm getting an occasional noise from around the front right springs/tie
rods, etc. that sounds like a "stretching". I'd gather we start at ball
joints and tie rods? Any great ideas on where to start? Nothing obvious
appearing.
Thanks!

Thinking about converting a gen. 5 ('92-95) Honda Civic? See
http://home.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html for DVD and tons more
info!
____
__/__|__\__
=D-------/ - - \
'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering
wheel?
OR Lic. "LCTRNS"




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Discussion Starter #4
Hello Bob,

This may be cause by the backlash of the drive tube that goes to the wheel
housing. When installing the motor in place of a engine, it is very
important to maintain the same clearances and angle of the drive tube that
inputs into a transmission or transaxle.

Some guys on this list had the same problem with a rear drive line setup.
After while there will be a scrapping noise. To get the exact clearances
you need, it is best to jack up the car and take a measurement of the drive
tube that inserts into the transaxle. Lets say when the car is up on stands
while the tires are off the ground, the drive tube slips out about 3/4 of a
inch. While the car is on the ground it then will slip in 3/4 of a inch,
but the transmission housing does not butt up tight against the drive tube
housing. There should at least be 3/4 to 1 inch clearances.

What happens, if the drive tube is closer than the minimum clearances, it
could butt against a bearing and or seal which makes a scrapping noise.
This will normally happen when the car goes over a bump or acceleration
where the drive tube may become more inline which shortens the distance
between the wheel housing and transaxle housing.

Another thing that could happen, is that the transaxle pilot shaft that
inserts into the motor coupler may not have adequate clearance between the
nose of the pilot shaft and pilot shaft bearing. What happens here, that a
pilot shaft may float up to 1/8 to 3/16 of inch. This will also cause a
scrapping noise alone the whole drive unit.

Some cars had large rubber bumpers that limit the travel of the front
suspension and rear suspension. Check to see if these have flatten some.
Very ease to replaces these units.

Roland

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Bath" <[email protected]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, December 18, 2010 10:10 AM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Suspension issues with EVs?


I should've done a better job of explaining that it is only on startup,
where the "lurch" effect occurs; ie, more pronounced if I accelerate harder,
or am on a hill, FWIW.Thanks all!

Thinking about converting a gen. 5 ('92-95) Honda Civic? See
http://home.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html for DVD and tons more
info!

____

__/__|__\__

=D-------/ - - \

'O'-----'O'-'

Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering
wheel?

OR Lic. "LCTRNS"

_______________________________________________
| REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
| Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
| UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
| OTHER HELP: http://evdl.org/help/
| OPTIONS: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
 
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