Hello Joseph,
Go back to the machine shop and have the coupler, flywheel, pressure plate
balance as a assembly. I had to do this back in 85, because my flywheel was
a external balance flywheel that is use to balance the engine.
Normally machine shops that can balance drive lines can do this process. My
electric motor shop also does engine and motor balancing.
On a initial installation of a taper lock bushing, it may pull to one side
if the machine surfaces are not polish. Remove the taper lock bushing and
rotate one turn and check it again. Sometimes it will come in with the
specs. Mark the bushing and coupler so it is in the same reference.
Also have the machinists check the run out of the surface of the motor
coupler. The neck of the coupler may have to be reface and then chuck it up
on the neck and reface the face of the coupler. Then install the flywheel
and check it for run out and balance. I had the ring gear remove and they
drill holes in the rear of the with a series of holes to balance the
flywheel.
The thicken edge where the ring gear was install was also remove making this
flywheel the same width as the center of the flywheel.
One more thing, The bolt holes in the bell housing and some flywheels may
have to much play, sometime up to 0.003 inch out. It is best to install
centering pins in the adapter plate like the engine has and also in the
motor coupler. It looks like you has a raise inlet nose section on the
motor coupler. Make sure it inserts into the flywheel as a semi-press fit,
if not then install a guild pin in the motor coupler.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joseph Bobek" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, September 18, 2010 11:39 AM
Subject: [EVDL] Taper Lock Hub Installation
> I am having trouble getting my taper lock hub, used to drive the
> flywheel, onto the motor shaft with a run out of less than 0.001". Does
> anyone have any tips or how-to for making this assembly without any
> vibration inducing wobble?
>
> === Conversion Information *===
>
> *I am converting a '98 Nissan Altima GXE to electric. An ADC FB1-4001A,
> double shaft, electric motor will drive the transmission through a
> flywheel and clutch. The flywheel, original to the car, will attach to
> the 1.125" shaft of the motor through a taper lock bushing and hub that
> I've had custom machined a couple of years ago. The space between the
> motor and the transmission is made up with a 2.5" aluminum plate that
> will be later scribed to the bell housing.
>
> === Hub Description* ===
>
> *I had a machinist make the hub to fit a Dayton QD Bushing, part number
> 4JU46. I supplied him red marked drawings based on Chris Simon's hub
> design (URL http://www.simonfamily.us/FocusEV/MatingTheMotor.htm). I
> also gave the machinist the taper lock bushing, flywheel, and crankshaft
> from the Nissan's engine.
> Pictures of the Hub assembly can be found at the addresses below.
>
> http://www.bobek.net/ixj/EV/P1010001.JPG
>
> http://www.bobek.net/ixj/EV/P1010003.JPG
>
> http://www.bobek.net/ixj/EV/P1010004.JPG
>
> === Issue Description ===
>
> I'm working on mating the transmission to the motor so I can align them
> using the method described on the Grass Roots EV CD. I'm tightening
> down the hub to the shaft on the taper lock bushing, checking the
> run-out as I go. Very shortly into the tightening process, my run-out
> goes outside of 0.005" and by the end of all the tightening is
> approaching or beyond 0.010". When I put the flywheel down on the hub,
> this wobble is multiplied out, making the problem worse.
>
> I'm checking the run out using a gauge screwed into a 2x4 that sits
> across the adapter plate. The gauge pin is resting on the outside edge
> of the hub and I can watch the needle as I turn the hub by hand.
> Pictures of my setup are at the addresses below.
>
> http://www.bobek.net/ixj/EV/P1010009.JPG
>
> http://www.bobek.net/ixj/EV/P1010010.JPG
>
> http://www.bobek.net/ixj/EV/P1010011.JPG
>
> Any help would be appreciated. This has been a bit of a long term
> project, and I'd like to get going full force on it again. But, I want
> to be careful that when its all together, I don't end up with something
> sub-par or with a lot of vibration.
>
> Thanks,
> Joe
>
> _______________________________________________
> | REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
> | Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
> | UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
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> | OPTIONS: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
_______________________________________________
| REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
| Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
| UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
| OTHER HELP: http://evdl.org/help/
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Go back to the machine shop and have the coupler, flywheel, pressure plate
balance as a assembly. I had to do this back in 85, because my flywheel was
a external balance flywheel that is use to balance the engine.
Normally machine shops that can balance drive lines can do this process. My
electric motor shop also does engine and motor balancing.
On a initial installation of a taper lock bushing, it may pull to one side
if the machine surfaces are not polish. Remove the taper lock bushing and
rotate one turn and check it again. Sometimes it will come in with the
specs. Mark the bushing and coupler so it is in the same reference.
Also have the machinists check the run out of the surface of the motor
coupler. The neck of the coupler may have to be reface and then chuck it up
on the neck and reface the face of the coupler. Then install the flywheel
and check it for run out and balance. I had the ring gear remove and they
drill holes in the rear of the with a series of holes to balance the
flywheel.
The thicken edge where the ring gear was install was also remove making this
flywheel the same width as the center of the flywheel.
One more thing, The bolt holes in the bell housing and some flywheels may
have to much play, sometime up to 0.003 inch out. It is best to install
centering pins in the adapter plate like the engine has and also in the
motor coupler. It looks like you has a raise inlet nose section on the
motor coupler. Make sure it inserts into the flywheel as a semi-press fit,
if not then install a guild pin in the motor coupler.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joseph Bobek" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, September 18, 2010 11:39 AM
Subject: [EVDL] Taper Lock Hub Installation
> I am having trouble getting my taper lock hub, used to drive the
> flywheel, onto the motor shaft with a run out of less than 0.001". Does
> anyone have any tips or how-to for making this assembly without any
> vibration inducing wobble?
>
> === Conversion Information *===
>
> *I am converting a '98 Nissan Altima GXE to electric. An ADC FB1-4001A,
> double shaft, electric motor will drive the transmission through a
> flywheel and clutch. The flywheel, original to the car, will attach to
> the 1.125" shaft of the motor through a taper lock bushing and hub that
> I've had custom machined a couple of years ago. The space between the
> motor and the transmission is made up with a 2.5" aluminum plate that
> will be later scribed to the bell housing.
>
> === Hub Description* ===
>
> *I had a machinist make the hub to fit a Dayton QD Bushing, part number
> 4JU46. I supplied him red marked drawings based on Chris Simon's hub
> design (URL http://www.simonfamily.us/FocusEV/MatingTheMotor.htm). I
> also gave the machinist the taper lock bushing, flywheel, and crankshaft
> from the Nissan's engine.
> Pictures of the Hub assembly can be found at the addresses below.
>
> http://www.bobek.net/ixj/EV/P1010001.JPG
>
> http://www.bobek.net/ixj/EV/P1010003.JPG
>
> http://www.bobek.net/ixj/EV/P1010004.JPG
>
> === Issue Description ===
>
> I'm working on mating the transmission to the motor so I can align them
> using the method described on the Grass Roots EV CD. I'm tightening
> down the hub to the shaft on the taper lock bushing, checking the
> run-out as I go. Very shortly into the tightening process, my run-out
> goes outside of 0.005" and by the end of all the tightening is
> approaching or beyond 0.010". When I put the flywheel down on the hub,
> this wobble is multiplied out, making the problem worse.
>
> I'm checking the run out using a gauge screwed into a 2x4 that sits
> across the adapter plate. The gauge pin is resting on the outside edge
> of the hub and I can watch the needle as I turn the hub by hand.
> Pictures of my setup are at the addresses below.
>
> http://www.bobek.net/ixj/EV/P1010009.JPG
>
> http://www.bobek.net/ixj/EV/P1010010.JPG
>
> http://www.bobek.net/ixj/EV/P1010011.JPG
>
> Any help would be appreciated. This has been a bit of a long term
> project, and I'd like to get going full force on it again. But, I want
> to be careful that when its all together, I don't end up with something
> sub-par or with a lot of vibration.
>
> Thanks,
> Joe
>
> _______________________________________________
> | REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
> | Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
> | UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
> | OTHER HELP: http://evdl.org/help/
> | OPTIONS: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
_______________________________________________
| REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
| Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
| UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
| OTHER HELP: http://evdl.org/help/
| OPTIONS: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev