This time, I've asked around and I think the advice I
got was good. Based on my situation, I think I have
to go with the 10 x 12 V Optimas (or other AGM - see
below). Why?
1. I really need sealed no maintenance batteries
because 4 of them are mounted under the rear seat and
are very very difficult to get to if you need to add
water. Also, most of the balance of them are in a box
in the rear behind the back seat. Having flooded lead
in the passanger compartment is a recipe for disaster.
So, I need to go with something maintenance free and
no acid leaks.
2. My charging system is set-up for 12 V batts. If I
change back to 8 v, I have a lot of extra work and
cost on my hands. Also, the 8 V batts don't seem to
be that much less cost. And, there is the whole issue
with flooded batts (at least in my car).
3. I'm still thinking about the possibility of NiCD
BB600, but charging will be an issue, and for sure
I'll have to redo the cabling and much of the battery
boxs. Still it may be worth it for better cycle life.
I really need to think that one over before
committing to anything.
4. I was very surprised that no one recommended the 12
V Group 24 Daka (East Penn) AGM 80 AH batts. I
thought those were the very best batts one could buy -
at least according to the manufacturer. They are even
a little less expensive than Optimas and have a higher
nameplate rated capacity. In the real world, maybe
they are less. I don't know for sure, but I always
thought those were very good top quality batts for the
price. No one else seems to think so though.
5. Just one last time, what is the fundamantal
difference between the Optima D34s (yellow top) and
D34MS (blue top). I believe the warranty is higher on
the blue top. But, is it that they can't handle high
discharge or temperature? Remember, I only have a
Curtis 550 A controller. But, I am going to spend a
lot, so I want the best possible solution. I'd go for
longer life over higher performance though. Given
that, which one is better, or which one do people have
more experience with. As for temperature effects, it
gets down to around freezing here, low 30's in the
winter (it snows a few days every few years) and top
high temperature of around 100 F right about this time
of year. The car is left outside year round. In the
summer, it gets very hot inside the car (where the
batteries are). It does have vents (not forced air
though), but I do see the batteries stitting at temps
well over 120 F in the summer. Thoughts on that?
Could that be killing the batts?
Thanks again.
Steve
____________________________________________________________________________________
Boardwalk for $500? In 2007? Ha! Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's updated for today's economy) at Yahoo! Games.
http://get.games.yahoo.com/proddesc?gamekey=monopolyherenow
_______________________________________________
For subscription options, see
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
got was good. Based on my situation, I think I have
to go with the 10 x 12 V Optimas (or other AGM - see
below). Why?
1. I really need sealed no maintenance batteries
because 4 of them are mounted under the rear seat and
are very very difficult to get to if you need to add
water. Also, most of the balance of them are in a box
in the rear behind the back seat. Having flooded lead
in the passanger compartment is a recipe for disaster.
So, I need to go with something maintenance free and
no acid leaks.
2. My charging system is set-up for 12 V batts. If I
change back to 8 v, I have a lot of extra work and
cost on my hands. Also, the 8 V batts don't seem to
be that much less cost. And, there is the whole issue
with flooded batts (at least in my car).
3. I'm still thinking about the possibility of NiCD
BB600, but charging will be an issue, and for sure
I'll have to redo the cabling and much of the battery
boxs. Still it may be worth it for better cycle life.
I really need to think that one over before
committing to anything.
4. I was very surprised that no one recommended the 12
V Group 24 Daka (East Penn) AGM 80 AH batts. I
thought those were the very best batts one could buy -
at least according to the manufacturer. They are even
a little less expensive than Optimas and have a higher
nameplate rated capacity. In the real world, maybe
they are less. I don't know for sure, but I always
thought those were very good top quality batts for the
price. No one else seems to think so though.
5. Just one last time, what is the fundamantal
difference between the Optima D34s (yellow top) and
D34MS (blue top). I believe the warranty is higher on
the blue top. But, is it that they can't handle high
discharge or temperature? Remember, I only have a
Curtis 550 A controller. But, I am going to spend a
lot, so I want the best possible solution. I'd go for
longer life over higher performance though. Given
that, which one is better, or which one do people have
more experience with. As for temperature effects, it
gets down to around freezing here, low 30's in the
winter (it snows a few days every few years) and top
high temperature of around 100 F right about this time
of year. The car is left outside year round. In the
summer, it gets very hot inside the car (where the
batteries are). It does have vents (not forced air
though), but I do see the batteries stitting at temps
well over 120 F in the summer. Thoughts on that?
Could that be killing the batts?
Thanks again.
Steve
____________________________________________________________________________________
Boardwalk for $500? In 2007? Ha! Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's updated for today's economy) at Yahoo! Games.
http://get.games.yahoo.com/proddesc?gamekey=monopolyherenow
_______________________________________________
For subscription options, see
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev