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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I can't help but wonder if one of these Taiwanese solder pots (ie. eBay
item 130333232082) would do the job. However, there appears to be no
temperature setting switch, so I suspect it's just a bimetallic switch
one-temperature scene (perhaps controllable with a variac?, but would
need to get oven temperature gauge of some sort). Anyone used one of
these for solder dipping?

There is also an American Beauty 300 solder pot (but actually looks to
be a 600W model); item 120679834021. Lee steered me away from another
600W'er, and it apparently has been relisted.

A Plato Sp-301 500W unit (390286552564) current bid at $25. Hmm,
somewhat interesting.

A small stream of solder pots keeps flowing by. I see at manufacturer
sites replacement parts available, so I guess if something doesn't work
right, one can fix it, but then those parts are probably pricey too.

Most of these pots are 1.5" deep. Presumably that clears the top of a
cable lug in dip orientation and then some.

Thanks for any advice. I've never used one of these devices, and don't
want to pay for one and shipping and end up with a mess. (I guess
cleaning out the old **** involves melting it, and somehow getting it
out and putting it... someplace.) But new ones except for those
Taiwanese jobs are out of my price range.

Chuck

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I've had good luck with the American Beauty products. It looks like an old
piece of crap, but the seller
has a high rating and claims it works. I've bought a couple of American Beauty
high wattage soldering irons (huge irons
for soldering large terminals, lots of heat mass) and they worked fine for
several years.
Not sure I could say the same about the Taiwanese solder pot.


----- Original Message ----
From: Chuck Hursch <[email protected]>
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <[email protected]>
Sent: Tue, February 8, 2011 5:20:29 PM
Subject: [EVDL] various solder pots for cable end solder dipping

I can't help but wonder if one of these Taiwanese solder pots (ie. eBay
item 130333232082) would do the job. However, there appears to be no
temperature setting switch, so I suspect it's just a bimetallic switch
one-temperature scene (perhaps controllable with a variac?, but would
need to get oven temperature gauge of some sort). Anyone used one of
these for solder dipping?

There is also an American Beauty 300 solder pot (but actually looks to
be a 600W model); item 120679834021. Lee steered me away from another
600W'er, and it apparently has been relisted.

A Plato Sp-301 500W unit (390286552564) current bid at $25. Hmm,
somewhat interesting.

A small stream of solder pots keeps flowing by. I see at manufacturer
sites replacement parts available, so I guess if something doesn't work
right, one can fix it, but then those parts are probably pricey too.

Most of these pots are 1.5" deep. Presumably that clears the top of a
cable lug in dip orientation and then some.

Thanks for any advice. I've never used one of these devices, and don't
want to pay for one and shipping and end up with a mess. (I guess
cleaning out the old **** involves melting it, and somehow getting it
out and putting it... someplace.) But new ones except for those
Taiwanese jobs are out of my price range.

Chuck

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Rod Hower wrote:
> I've had good luck with the American Beauty products. It looks like an old
> piece of crap, but the seller has a high rating and claims it works.

Mine is an American Beauty, and they are indeed very well made. But
anything can be beat to death. The one mentioned on eBay looked pretty
rough.

A solder pot is the sort of tool you don't use very often, but it has to
work right to be of any use. You're likely to have it for a very long
time. I don't think you will feel that a cheap one was any bargain after
if wrecks some terminals, or leaks molten lead, or quits working halfway
through a job.
--
Lee A. Hart | Ring the bells that still can ring
814 8th Ave N | Forget the perfect offering
Sartell MN 56377 | There is a crack in everything
leeahart earthlink.net | That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I know this thread is getting old, but I have a point to make some would
find interesting for tinning wire ends one does need a good solder-pot. Well
when I was Engineering and R&D Manager of Brolan Corp, we used an Electric
Skillet. Thermostatic control, 8 inches wide, 2 inches deep plugs into a
standard 120 VAC outlet. sell for $8 to $12 at any thrift store. at 450
Degrees F. they last for about a week of continuous use. and I was told that
the circuit boards for "Custom Musical Instrument Company" were "Dip
Soldered" in household Frying Pans. At least until the 1980's. So use a
electric frying pan they work and are cheep, but you mite need five pounds
of solder...
Regards,
*Dennis Lee Miles* +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++



Lee Hart <[email protected]> wrote:

> On 3/30/2011 3:03 PM, Chuck Hursch wrote:
> > Ok, snagged a Model 600 (eBay item 290544909633) in relatively good
> > shape... what type of solder is in the pot?
>
> See if you can measure its melting point, and go from there.
>
> I used 50/50 because that was what I could find in bar solder. It has a
> slightly higher melting point, is a bit stronger mechanically, and has a
> "plastic" range of temperatures over which it slowly solidifies as it
> cools.
>
> 63/37 has the lowest melting point, and a very sharp transition between
> solid and liquid. Mechanically it's a bit weaker.
>
> 60/40 is a compromise between the two.
>
> > It's not clear to me how the dross skimmer can be removed with solder in
> > the pot.
>
> You need to either unscrew it with the solder molten, or dump the pot
> and then remove it. You can work around it for all but the very biggest
> lugs.
>
> > If going in at angle, unless the gap between the barrel and the
> > insulation is wide, you're either not going to fully cover the barrel,
> > or you're going to immerse some of the insulation.
>
> Yes, but that's OK. I roll the cable around a little to get all sides.
> If you complete the soldering in under 5 seconds, the insulation won't
> have time to melt.
>
> > As for fluxing before dipping, I don't recall whether the recommendation
> > was dipping the lug in a bottle of flux or brushing it on. Gotta go
> > find some flux.
>
> I use a can of rosin paste flux and a little brush.
>
> > Looks like purging (emptying the solder out) the pot is a big job!
>
> Easy, but dangerous! Wear protective gear!
>
> > American Beauty explains it at
> > http://www.americanbeautytools.com/site/index.php?req=bulletin45. I
> > wonder why they don't recommend turning the pot over at the start, and
> > just have the solder fall through a hole in a supporting surface once
> > the edges of the solder body warm up enough.
>
> I haven't tried that, but I have laid it on its side and let it slowly
> drain out into a pan as it melted. That worked OK, as I didn't have to
> be near it went the solder slid and splashed out.
>
> --
> Lee A. Hart | Ring the bells that still can ring
> 814 8th Ave N | Forget the perfect offering
> Sartell MN 56377 | There is a crack in everything
> leeahart earthlink.net | That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
>
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> | Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
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