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Discussion Starter #1
Can anyone point me to a good VIDEO link on how to drive an EV? I need to
see it and hear it described. Text is not good enough.

I've been driving my EV for 2 years and am sure I could drive it more
efficiently.

Video please!

Peter Flipsen Jr
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Discussion Starter #2
Researching with
http://search.yahoo.com/search?p="how+to+drive"+electric+car+"more+efficiently"
gave:

http://il.youtube.com/watch?v=As014tBTcmo
Rob Wray from mp3Car talks with Ron about the Wave 2 ... The screen
in the dash allows you to see the ... amp meter ... so that you can
see how much voltage you are using as you drive in order to learn how
to drive more efficiently ...

http://www.foxtoledo.com/dpp/economy/auto_news/Auto-show-features-electric-cars
... Ford ... smart phone app. ... you can get advice on your car how
to drive it more efficiently ...


But I could not find the "How to" video you asked for. Neither did I
find a How2 video from Jack Rickard's video collection on evtv.me
But perhaps if you contact him [email protected] he would either tell
you which of his videos does answer your needs, or he would make a
video episode addressing your needs.


Since you do not want text, I won't bore you with asking you to
check your EV
http://www.evalbum.com/1974
so it does not have dragging brakes or under inflated tires, and you
must already know Low Rolling Resistance tires help improve range.

And you have likely already discussed spending your professorship
salary
http://www.isu.edu/~flippete/default.html
to replace your Group 30 12V deep-cycle pack for a longer range 6V
(golf cart) wet-cell type PbSO4 battery pack. There is an
Interstate dealership in your town
http://www.interstatebatteries.com/cs_estore/DealerLocator/Default.aspx
http://corporate.interstatebatteries.com/www/distributors/boise/default.asp

A 120V string of gc2-rd 6V
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370487132982&hlp=false&rvr_id=213512700493&crlp=1_263602_304652&UA=WXF%3F&GUID=5ec60b7612e0a0aa179302a3fe4a7ea6&itemid=370487132982&ff4=263602_304652
similar to the lighter weight T105s. Or a 120V string of GC-8 8V
http://cgi.ebay.com/interstate-GC8-HD-UTL-golf-cart-battery-8-volt-8v-8-v-/370487132867
*Do not buy on ebay if you have a dealer in town.


Since I could not find a video that exactly fits your request, the
alternatives would be to ride & drive with other EV'rs near you.
Since you are in Meridian, ID 83642

The three closest EAA electricauto.org Chapters/affiliates near you:

Utah EV Coalition
Web Site: saltflats.com.
Utah Salt Flats Racing Association meeting(USFRA); we are the Official
Bonneville Salt Flats AF Racing Events Coordinators.
Contact: Kent Singleton [email-link-on-web-page], (801) 644-0903
Mailing: 325 E. 2550 N #83, North Ogden, UT 84414
Meetings: 7pm, 1st Wednesday of the month
Location: Totems Restaurant, 538 S. Redwood Rd, Salt Lake City, UT,
(801) 975-0401. You'll meet BYU Electric Team, WSU-EV Design Team
other land speed racing celebrities. Always a great turn out.


Oregon Electric Vehicle Association
Web Site: http://www.oeva.org/
Contact:: John Christian [email-link-on-web-page]
Mailing: 16094 SW Flagstone Dr, Portland OR, 503-704-2155
Meetings: Monthly
Location:World Trade Center, Portland, OR.


Panhandle Electric Vehicle Association
Website: [dead-domain]
Contact: Gordy Ormesher (208) 660-8539
Mailing: 2025 E. Foxborough Court, Hayden, ID 83835
Meetings: the second Tuesday of every month at 6:30 PM.
Location: The Hot Rod Cafe 1610 E. Schneidmiller Avenue Post Falls,
Idaho 83854


Even though I listed the above in order of the closest one to you
first, their meetings would be an all day trip to and from. So,
perhaps you can make contact with them and find one of their
members near you that would make the ICE drive worthwhile.

Like Gordy Ormesher in Hayden, Idaho of Panhandle EV Association
http://www.evalbum.com/2825





[Sidebar] ... For everyone else ...

My research did find some stuff that might be of interest. Someone
did not pay the domain renewal fee for PEVA (above), so using a
back door, I found one of their pages had a nice EV piece done by a
local TV station:
http://www.kxly.com/news/23228820/detail.html

I found a Jun 10, 2008 I had not seen before that I found interesting
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=shk_JEXShzE
... Even God loves the charger ... Is my plug showing? ...

Looking at
http://google.com/#hl=en&q="http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3Dshk_JEXShzE"
there is a link to that video's URL on many sites that are around the
world. So it isn't just me that liked it.

The video was an evnut.com production, he has more at
http://evnut.com/video.htm

Like this one on that video page
http://www.viddler.com/explore/iStef/videos/9/
2008.05.31 The Power Of Electric Favorite

I thought it was well done. With a little ZZ-Top (Cool-EV-guy gets the
babe) approach.

Oh if I had only had access to today's technology back in the 1990's.
While my efforts to turn ICE-heads around to give EVs a look, having
them see that video instead of a still-picture of my co-worker babes
in hot-pants on my S10 Blazer's hood like Hot-Rodder Kar-Kittens would
have worked a lot better!

{brucedp.150m.com}




-
From: "SLPinfo.org" <[email protected]>
Subject: [EVDL] Video on EV driving?
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2011
Can anyone point me to a good VIDEO link on how to drive an EV?
I need to see it and hear it described. Text is not good enough.
I've been driving my EV for 2 years and am sure I could drive it
more efficiently. Video please! -Peter Flipsen Jr
-

--
View this message in context: http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/Video-on-EV-driving-tp3324496p3325261.html
Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi Peter,

I can't help with any video, but I do have some tips. Also, we're in the
same area (I live in Middleton and work at HP) so we could get together to
compare notes.

In my opinion, the most important thing you can do is to coast (a lot!) You
have invested a significant amount of battery energy to convert into kinetic
energy. In my case, getting to 55 mph takes me about 100 watt hours of
energy. If I brake, I toss that investment. If I use that wisely and coast
to match speed with cars pulling away from a traffic light, I can get about
a 1/2 mile of travel out of that energy. Any time you have to brake, you
are losing.

I also second the recommendation to check brakes. I have my car up on jack
stands to do some work on it and I found that my front brakes are dragging
pretty bad. I can't get a rotation out of the tires when pushing them hard.
On my back wheels, I can get 6-7 rotations. I realize the front drive axles
will cause some slowdown, but I can hear the brakes dragging.

I'm hoping fixing that will move me from 250 wh/mile average to around
200-225 wh/mile average.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf
Of SLPinfo.org
Sent: Friday, February 25, 2011 7:15 AM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: [EVDL] Video on EV driving?

Can anyone point me to a good VIDEO link on how to drive an EV? I need to
see it and hear it described. Text is not good enough.

I've been driving my EV for 2 years and am sure I could drive it more
efficiently.

Video please!

Peter Flipsen Jr
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Discussion Starter #4
Bruce,

Despite not finding anything I do appreciate your efforts.

Re: brakes. Had the pads and disks changed out recently but haven't noticed
a big change in performance. That suggests they probably aren't dragging.
But it may be worth checking.

I keep a pretty good eye on tire pressure - I inflate them to 40 lbs (44 max
possible) which is higher than the 29 lbs recommended by Chrysler for the
factory ICE.

I don't have any inclination to change my batteries from 12V to 6V for a
couple of reasons:

1. I don't want to have to modify my battery racks. I didn't do the
conversion, I don't have any welding skills, and I can't afford to hire
someone else to do it. I have looked just out of curiosity and can't see
any 6V batteries with a similar footprint to my Group 31s. Those that are
close are just too tall - not much clearance available for the 4 batteries
under the hood.

2. Going to 20 X 6V would put me over the car's GVWR. I realize that many
EV converters go over that, but I'm not prepared to push my luck and exceed
the design specs of the car. Keeping the same number of batteries means
dropping to 60V which would mean changing my controller, changing my
charger, and losing top end speed. I do need to get to at least 40 mph
regularly and not sure I could get there with only 60V. And bottom line
would probably be not much gain in KwH stored on board so where would be the
advantage?

Am considering getting a small pickup and transferring over the EV equipment
which would allow me to go to 6V batteries. My professor's salary doesn't go
very far though and so I'm not sure when that might happen. I did just pay
off the loan that I took out to do the conversion (today as a matter of fact
using my tax return), my wife has been out of work for over a year and I'm
not sure we want to take on any more payments.

Once again, thanks for trying.

- Peter Flipsen Jr

btw - I have been in contact with the Utah EV group for quite some time.
It's a 5 hour drive to Salt Lake City from here, so I don't get to their
meetings often. My car was in fact converted by one of their members (Carl
Clark of the Electric Car Co of Utah).



brucedp5 <[email protected]> wrote:

>
>
> Researching with
> http://search.yahoo.com/search?p=
> "how+to+drive"+electric+car+"more+efficiently"
> gave:
>
> http://il.youtube.com/watch?v=As014tBTcmo
> Rob Wray from mp3Car talks with Ron about the Wave 2 ... The screen
> in the dash allows you to see the ... amp meter ... so that you can
> see how much voltage you are using as you drive in order to learn how
> to drive more efficiently ...
>
>
> http://www.foxtoledo.com/dpp/economy/auto_news/Auto-show-features-electric-cars
> ... Ford ... smart phone app. ... you can get advice on your car how
> to drive it more efficiently ...
>
>
> But I could not find the "How to" video you asked for. Neither did I
> find a How2 video from Jack Rickard's video collection on evtv.me
> But perhaps if you contact him [email protected] he would either tell
> you which of his videos does answer your needs, or he would make a
> video episode addressing your needs.
>
>
> Since you do not want text, I won't bore you with asking you to
> check your EV
> http://www.evalbum.com/1974
> so it does not have dragging brakes or under inflated tires, and you
> must already know Low Rolling Resistance tires help improve range.
>
> And you have likely already discussed spending your professorship
> salary
> http://www.isu.edu/~flippete/default.html
> to replace your Group 30 12V deep-cycle pack for a longer range 6V
> (golf cart) wet-cell type PbSO4 battery pack. There is an
> Interstate dealership in your town
> http://www.interstatebatteries.com/cs_estore/DealerLocator/Default.aspx
> http://corporate.interstatebatteries.com/www/distributors/boise/default.asp
>
> A 120V string of gc2-rd 6V
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370487132982&hlp=false&rvr_id=213512700493&crlp=1_263602_304652&UA=WXF%3F&GUID=5ec60b7612e0a0aa179302a3fe4a7ea6&itemid=370487132982&ff4=263602_304652
> similar to the lighter weight T105s. Or a 120V string of GC-8 8V
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/interstate-GC8-HD-UTL-golf-cart-battery-8-volt-8v-8-v-/370487132867
> *Do not buy on ebay if you have a dealer in town.
>
>
>
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| OPTIONS: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Mike,

Thanks for the suggestions. I do try to coast although admittedly since I
use it every day I do tend to easily fall into autopilot on the commute and
regularly forget to do it. 30 years of driving habits are hard to overcome.

- Peter

Mike Nickerson <[email protected]>wrote:

> Hi Peter,
>
> I can't help with any video, but I do have some tips. Also, we're in the
> same area (I live in Middleton and work at HP) so we could get together to
> compare notes.
>
> In my opinion, the most important thing you can do is to coast (a lot!)
> You
> have invested a significant amount of battery energy to convert into
> kinetic
> energy. In my case, getting to 55 mph takes me about 100 watt hours of
> energy. If I brake, I toss that investment. If I use that wisely and
> coast
> to match speed with cars pulling away from a traffic light, I can get about
> a 1/2 mile of travel out of that energy. Any time you have to brake, you
> are losing.
>
> I also second the recommendation to check brakes. I have my car up on jack
> stands to do some work on it and I found that my front brakes are dragging
> pretty bad. I can't get a rotation out of the tires when pushing them
> hard.
> On my back wheels, I can get 6-7 rotations. I realize the front drive
> axles
> will cause some slowdown, but I can hear the brakes dragging.
>
> I'm hoping fixing that will move me from 250 wh/mile average to around
> 200-225 wh/mile average.
>
> Mike
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On
> Behalf
> Of SLPinfo.org
> Sent: Friday, February 25, 2011 7:15 AM
> To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
> Subject: [EVDL] Video on EV driving?
>
> Can anyone point me to a good VIDEO link on how to drive an EV? I need to
> see it and hear it described. Text is not good enough.
>
> I've been driving my EV for 2 years and am sure I could drive it more
> efficiently.
>
> Video please!
>
> Peter Flipsen Jr
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> | REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
> | Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
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>
> _______________________________________________
> | REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
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Discussion Starter #6
Hello Peter,

Try to keep as close to the motor sweet spot which is the highest power
output at about the midpoint of the torque-speed curve which is about
between 25 to 30% of maximum rated rpm. Look up Motor Sweet Spot and it
will explain it a lot better than a video.

Also contact the motor manufacturer tech and they will give you the sweet
spot rpm. For my WarP 9 it is 3300 rpm and for a WarP 11 it is 1800 rpm
which both are rated at 200 continuous motor amp.

Now that I know the sweet spot rpm, I tried to drive as close to that motor
rpm and stay at or below 200 motor amps and 75 battery amps. Right-Sizing
the motor to the application, the sweet spot for the peak motor efficiently
is 80 to 100 percent or motor full load.

Stay in gear until you reach the sweet spot rpm and then shift and stay in
that gear until the same rpm and so on as you shift up.

If you run out of gears or in final drive and cannot maintain the sweet spot
rpm, then that's the maximum rpm you should design the drive train for the
speed you want to attain.

The MPH formula:

MPH - (rpm x tire circumference)/(overall gear ratio x 1056)


Roland







From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf
Of SLPinfo.org
Sent: Friday, February 25, 2011 7:15 AM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: [EVDL] Video on EV driving?

Can anyone point me to a good VIDEO link on how to drive an EV? I need to
see it and hear it described. Text is not good enough.

I've been driving my EV for 2 years and am sure I could drive it more
efficiently.

Video please!

Peter Flipsen Jr


_______________________________________________
| REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
| Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
| UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
| OTHER HELP: http://evdl.org/help/
| OPTIONS: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
 

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70 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Thanks Roland. Still don't have a working tach but have recently had some
ideas of how to get it working.

- Peter

Roland Wiench <[email protected]> wrote:

> Hello Peter,
>
> Try to keep as close to the motor sweet spot which is the highest power
> output at about the midpoint of the torque-speed curve which is about
> between 25 to 30% of maximum rated rpm. Look up Motor Sweet Spot and it
> will explain it a lot better than a video.
>
> Also contact the motor manufacturer tech and they will give you the sweet
> spot rpm. For my WarP 9 it is 3300 rpm and for a WarP 11 it is 1800 rpm
> which both are rated at 200 continuous motor amp.
>
> Now that I know the sweet spot rpm, I tried to drive as close to that motor
> rpm and stay at or below 200 motor amps and 75 battery amps. Right-Sizing
> the motor to the application, the sweet spot for the peak motor efficiently
> is 80 to 100 percent or motor full load.
>
> Stay in gear until you reach the sweet spot rpm and then shift and stay in
> that gear until the same rpm and so on as you shift up.
>
> If you run out of gears or in final drive and cannot maintain the sweet
> spot
> rpm, then that's the maximum rpm you should design the drive train for the
> speed you want to attain.
>
> The MPH formula:
>
> MPH - (rpm x tire circumference)/(overall gear ratio x 1056)
>
>
> Roland
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On
> Behalf
> Of SLPinfo.org
> Sent: Friday, February 25, 2011 7:15 AM
> To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
> Subject: [EVDL] Video on EV driving?
>
> Can anyone point me to a good VIDEO link on how to drive an EV? I need to
> see it and hear it described. Text is not good enough.
>
> I've been driving my EV for 2 years and am sure I could drive it more
> efficiently.
>
> Video please!
>
> Peter Flipsen Jr
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> | REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
> | Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
> | UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
> | OTHER HELP: http://evdl.org/help/
> | OPTIONS: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
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Discussion Starter #8
Hello Peter,

Look at your controller specifications and see if there is a output that
goes to a tach. In many cases, the tach may have to be adjusted to a four
cylinder mode. I am using a Stewart Warner tach that has a adjustment lever
on the back for 4,6,or 8 cylinder mode which can run off my Zilla.

You could adapt the tach sender that was design for your car to fit your
motor pilot shaft if you have one.

You could also use the speedometer as a tach indicator by what is the
maximum rpm in each gear ratio. To find the overall gear ratio, just
multiply each gear ratio of the transmission to the differential gear and
use the mph formula to find what the sweet spot rpm is at mph.

After a while, I do not even look at the tach to see when I am at 1800 rpm.
In 1st gear at 15 mph I am at 1800 rpm, 2nd its at 25 mph, 3rd its 35 mph
and so on.

Roland


----- Original Message -----
From: "SLPinfo.org" <[email protected]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, February 26, 2011 6:36 AM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Video on EV driving?


> Thanks Roland. Still don't have a working tach but have recently had some
> ideas of how to get it working.
>
> - Peter
>
>
Roland Wiench <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > Hello Peter,
> >
> > Try to keep as close to the motor sweet spot which is the highest power
> > output at about the midpoint of the torque-speed curve which is about
> > between 25 to 30% of maximum rated rpm. Look up Motor Sweet Spot and it
> > will explain it a lot better than a video.
> >
> > Also contact the motor manufacturer tech and they will give you the
> > sweet
> > spot rpm. For my WarP 9 it is 3300 rpm and for a WarP 11 it is 1800 rpm
> > which both are rated at 200 continuous motor amp.
> >
> > Now that I know the sweet spot rpm, I tried to drive as close to that
> > motor
> > rpm and stay at or below 200 motor amps and 75 battery amps.
> > Right-Sizing
> > the motor to the application, the sweet spot for the peak motor
> > efficiently
> > is 80 to 100 percent or motor full load.
> >
> > Stay in gear until you reach the sweet spot rpm and then shift and stay
> > in
> > that gear until the same rpm and so on as you shift up.
> >
> > If you run out of gears or in final drive and cannot maintain the sweet
> > spot
> > rpm, then that's the maximum rpm you should design the drive train for
> > the
> > speed you want to attain.
> >
> > The MPH formula:
> >
> > MPH - (rpm x tire circumference)/(overall gear ratio x 1056)
> >
> >
> > Roland
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On
> > Behalf
> > Of SLPinfo.org
> > Sent: Friday, February 25, 2011 7:15 AM
> > To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
> > Subject: [EVDL] Video on EV driving?
> >
> > Can anyone point me to a good VIDEO link on how to drive an EV? I need
> > to
> > see it and hear it described. Text is not good enough.
> >
> > I've been driving my EV for 2 years and am sure I could drive it more
> > efficiently.
> >
> > Video please!
> >
> > Peter Flipsen Jr
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > | REPLYING: address your message to [email protected] only.
> > | Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
> > | UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
> > | OTHER HELP: http://evdl.org/help/
> > | OPTIONS: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
> >
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Discussion Starter #9
Roland,

As always I appreciate the input. The original ICE had no tach. But I have
a tach I purchased from Westach - it's just not working properly yet. It
is hooked up with a hall effect sensor on the output shaft of the motor.
But the problem is the mechanic who installed it for me tapped into the same
power source as my amp meter. So the tach needle is moving but it looks
very much like the amp meter response. It looks like the amp signal is
bleeding over and overpowering everything else. I've been told I need to
(1) install a resistor in line with the tach and (2) find a different power
source for the tach. I may also need to replace the power wires with
shielded cable (which I have). I have bought the resistor and just need to
take the time to do the re-wiring.

btw - I just emailed ADC to find out the sweet spot for my FB1-4001A motor.
Being Saturday I don't expect a response till next week. It would be nice
if someone could compile a list of the "sweet spots" for the most commonly
used EV motors.


- Peter Flipsen Jr
http://www.evalbum.com/1974

Roland Wiench <[email protected]> wrote:

> Hello Peter,
>
> Look at your controller specifications and see if there is a output that
> goes to a tach. In many cases, the tach may have to be adjusted to a four
> cylinder mode. I am using a Stewart Warner tach that has a adjustment
> lever
> on the back for 4,6,or 8 cylinder mode which can run off my Zilla.
>
> You could adapt the tach sender that was design for your car to fit your
> motor pilot shaft if you have one.
>
> You could also use the speedometer as a tach indicator by what is the
> maximum rpm in each gear ratio. To find the overall gear ratio, just
> multiply each gear ratio of the transmission to the differential gear and
> use the mph formula to find what the sweet spot rpm is at mph.
>
> After a while, I do not even look at the tach to see when I am at 1800 rpm.
> In 1st gear at 15 mph I am at 1800 rpm, 2nd its at 25 mph, 3rd its 35 mph
> and so on.
>
> Roland
>
>
>
>
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Discussion Starter #10
Hello Peter,

If the amp meter is on the main pack voltage and the tap is off the main
line voltage, this is not the right voltage for your tach. It is not best
to daisy chain some of the on dash indicators together for tap off power.

I completely rebuilt my dash that has hinge down dash plates where I can
either remove each instrument, or swing down the dash plate for excess to
the back of the meters. I use a set screw terminal board that is track
mounted that you can assemble different wire size blocks, fuse holders,
relays, and any other device that is design to connected to a terminal strip
rail.

There are separate terminal blocks for 12 volts, main pack voltage, dc-dc
voltage, 120 vac voltage and communications circuits which are mounted on a
standoff chassis that is attach to the firewall behind the dash plates.

I keep all these circuits separate by using shield barriers, shielded cable,
and install it separate conduits.

Instead of having one main 12 volt feeder source from the accessory battery,
I will have at least six separate feeders which two 12 volt feeder just to
the motor controller, one for the indicator lighting, one for the DC-DC
converter, one for communication, one for the E-meter, and several for relay
and contactor control.

When tapping off a main battery pack shunt, it requires additional
circuitry, but this normally use for a AMP ON TACH which you can actually
read the motor ampere on a tach. Some motor controllers like the Zilla has
mode which you can switch from tach to motor amps.

Roland


----- Original Message -----
From: "SLPinfo.org" <[email protected]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <[email protected]>
Sent: Saturday, February 26, 2011 8:39 AM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Video on EV driving?


> Roland,
>
> As always I appreciate the input. The original ICE had no tach. But I
> have
> a tach I purchased from Westach - it's just not working properly yet. It
> is hooked up with a hall effect sensor on the output shaft of the motor.
> But the problem is the mechanic who installed it for me tapped into the
> same
> power source as my amp meter. So the tach needle is moving but it looks
> very much like the amp meter response. It looks like the amp signal is
> bleeding over and overpowering everything else. I've been told I need to
> (1) install a resistor in line with the tach and (2) find a different
> power
> source for the tach. I may also need to replace the power wires with
> shielded cable (which I have). I have bought the resistor and just need
> to
> take the time to do the re-wiring.
>
> btw - I just emailed ADC to find out the sweet spot for my FB1-4001A
> motor.
> Being Saturday I don't expect a response till next week. It would be
> nice
> if someone could compile a list of the "sweet spots" for the most commonly
> used EV motors.
>
>
> - Peter Flipsen Jr
> http://www.evalbum.com/1974
>
>
Roland Wiench <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > Hello Peter,
> >
> > Look at your controller specifications and see if there is a output that
> > goes to a tach. In many cases, the tach may have to be adjusted to a
> > four
> > cylinder mode. I am using a Stewart Warner tach that has a adjustment
> > lever
> > on the back for 4,6,or 8 cylinder mode which can run off my Zilla.
> >
> > You could adapt the tach sender that was design for your car to fit your
> > motor pilot shaft if you have one.
> >
> > You could also use the speedometer as a tach indicator by what is the
> > maximum rpm in each gear ratio. To find the overall gear ratio, just
> > multiply each gear ratio of the transmission to the differential gear
> > and
> > use the mph formula to find what the sweet spot rpm is at mph.
> >
> > After a while, I do not even look at the tach to see when I am at 1800
> > rpm.
> > In 1st gear at 15 mph I am at 1800 rpm, 2nd its at 25 mph, 3rd its 35
> > mph
> > and so on.
> >
> > Roland
> >
> >
> >
> >
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70 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Roland,

Yes, I may have to run a separate 12V feed for the tach but not sure I am up
to the task (or whether I have the patience to figure it out). I really do
admire your attention to detail, but clearly you have higher level knowledge
and skills than I do.

- Peter


Roland Wiench <[email protected]> wrote:

> Hello Peter,
>
> If the amp meter is on the main pack voltage and the tap is off the main
> line voltage, this is not the right voltage for your tach. It is not best
> to daisy chain some of the on dash indicators together for tap off power.
>
> I completely rebuilt my dash that has hinge down dash plates where I can
> either remove each instrument, or swing down the dash plate for excess to
> the back of the meters. I use a set screw terminal board that is track
> mounted that you can assemble different wire size blocks, fuse holders,
> relays, and any other device that is design to connected to a terminal
> strip
> rail.
>
> There are separate terminal blocks for 12 volts, main pack voltage, dc-dc
> voltage, 120 vac voltage and communications circuits which are mounted on a
> standoff chassis that is attach to the firewall behind the dash plates.
>
> I keep all these circuits separate by using shield barriers, shielded
> cable,
> and install it separate conduits.
>
> Instead of having one main 12 volt feeder source from the accessory
> battery,
> I will have at least six separate feeders which two 12 volt feeder just to
> the motor controller, one for the indicator lighting, one for the DC-DC
> converter, one for communication, one for the E-meter, and several for
> relay
> and contactor control.
>
> When tapping off a main battery pack shunt, it requires additional
> circuitry, but this normally use for a AMP ON TACH which you can actually
> read the motor ampere on a tach. Some motor controllers like the Zilla has
> mode which you can switch from tach to motor amps.
>
> Roland
>
>
>
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Discussion Starter #12
Referring to the OP's request, I would think a video for efficient EV driving
might be a bit on the boring side. I wasn't the most economical ICE driver until
I got a ScanGauge for our ICE vehicle but a lot of things overlap efficient EV
driving.

Even our recumbent tandem riding carries over to efficient EV riding, in that we
kept an eye out for traffic light changes. Approach a green light with a wary
eye, expecting it to change to red, and approach a red light more slowly, hoping
for a change to green.

Keep a respectable distance from cars ahead, and adjust speed to reduce the need
for braking as appropriate. I've read of people who are afraid to travel in such
a manner, as they fear that overtaking traffic will collide with a slower moving
vehicle. Such fears are completely groundless and serve to create myths.

Accelerate gradually, and attempt to reach optimum motor rpm without pulling
gobs of power. I agree with the post about determining best motor rpm as a means
of increasing efficiency. My Gizmo will run 110-125 watt-hours per mile if I'm
unable to make trips long enough to get up to best motor rpm, while on longer
trips with fewer traffic lights, I can get it down to 99 watt-hours per mile or
lower. I'm going to be changing my (single-speed) gearing to get the rpm higher
for even more improvement. Dropping some of the PbA pounds by going to LiFePO4
isn't going to hurt either, but that's a different post.

Imagine a video describing the above... just reading it might put one to sleep,
narrating a video would be a real snoozer.

fred




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