This is exactly what I did back in 1976, was to put the main AC plug and
connector behind the hinge license plate holder that is mounted on the rear.
Still using it today and pull out the plug about four times with no damage
to the plug.
The plug I am using is a large 50 amp Danial Woodhead 4 pole, 4 wire twist
lock. The connector (not a receptacle) is install in a cast aluminum
housing made by the Power Anderson Company. You can make one by take a
piece of 6 inch long by 4 inch ID conduit and weld a closer plate on one end
with a 1.25 hole in it. The other end has a square 5.5 inch plate with a
4.5 inch hole which is welded to the 4 inch conduit.
This square plate has four mounting holes for bolting on a hinge aluminum 2
gang plate made by the Bell Company. These weather tight plates have a
gasket that is design enclose a 2-gang device that ranges from 30 to 50 amp.
The Danial Woodhead connector and plug is normally a inline device for
connecting two power cords together that can lay directly on wet ground.
The connector is fasten in side the aluminum housing by inserter the
threaded part of the cable gland connector, through the 1-1/4 hole and then
tighten up the large cable nut.
This type of connector or similar type have large set screw box connectors
where the cable wires insert straight in. The maximum torque on the set
screws are about 100 inch lbs. On the plug side there is also a cable gland
nut that has a taper rubber insert that I grease up with a GE electrical
compound that you can get a large tube from any motor shop. Hand tighten
this cable nut only.
When the connector and plug is connected together, the connector has a
overlapping nylon cover that goes over the plug which I also grease up with
the GE compound.
Now to test out the pull out without disconnecting the plug. When the plug
is plug in the cord is laying just over the top of the bumper and wraps down
and than forward for 20 feet to a power receptacle. This length leaves
enough slack, so when I move the EV in reverse, the bumper pulls out the
cable out of the cable grand nut and the box lug connectors. When this
happens the circuit breaker turns off, so there is no live wires at the end
of the cord.
I have not pull the cable out since 2002, because I place the bright yellow
plug on a holder on the right side of the passenger side of the EV. I
always when backing out of the garage, the plug is exactly in the line of
sight of the side mirrors.
Also what helps, is a 120 V neon pilot light on the dash of the EV that
comes on when the plug is in. My plug being a 4 wire which has a neutral,
ground, and two feeder lines also provides 120 volts circuits for
pre-heating the heaters and also run blower fans and pumps which I can run
using a transfer switch to test out these circuits which also have these 120
V indicator lights.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis Miles" <
[email protected]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <
[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, October 28, 2010 12:10 AM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] What plug do you use?
I have often wondered if the 1955/56 Cadillac wasn't setting a good
example by putting the fuel filler in the rear under a tail light (56 Chevy
did it too). it was high and easy to reach on that tall tail fin, and
assessable from the back or side for convenience. Quite a bit better than
the 1960's GM products that put the fuel filler behind the license plate
where gas would splash out if you didn't affix the cap properly.[thru the
'60 s] still, why not put your charging inlet behind the license plate in
rear or front? just mount plate with 2 spring equipped screen door hinges..
If you are as forgetfull as I am or your charging on a sloping driveway
put a 2x4 a foot long in front of the wheel and if is your driveway drive
two anchors thru it into the pavement so it stays there and you unplug, get
in and just drive over it. so it is always there for you.
Another play one of my friends used was to buy a Mylar aluminized
balloon for every Holiday. then he tied the string to his plug at the car
end in his garage, jump in the car and check the mirror before driving off
and there is the balloon waving "Hi, Dummy, I'm still here !" as a reminder
he could see.
Personally, I do not like the J1772 latch, so I carry some cheep cable
ties in my console and put one on the latch button so it is not latched in
my use. the Pilot pin is shortest so the 240vac is cut before the connection
breaks completely.
"There are Always Alternatives"...
Regards,
Dennis Miles
============================================================
On Thu, Oct 28, 2010 at 1:20 AM, David Dymaxion
<
[email protected]>wrote:
The car end needs to pull free because if it pulls free from the wall and
drags soon the car will run over the cord. That will then pull it free from
the car even if it means breaking something.
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It will happen.
