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Thanks again Duncan. I got you... But regarding the 100 KMH at 2000 RPM, there is nothing I can do since it is the current built in mechanism characteristics. But I will try to find a controller to have the ability to cope with it and, as I said before, provide a battery pack that will supply higher voltage than the nominal voltage of the motor. This will leave the controller to adjust the voltage to cope with the torque (current) demand at higher RPMs. Sounds good?
If you are keeping the transmission simply use a lower gear
Top gear may be 2000 rpm for 100 kph - but lower gears will be more revs - first gear is usually three or four to one
So in first it will be 6,000 to 8,000 rpm at 100 kph

Keeping the revs up will reduce the heat as the motor will be spinning faster and you will require less current

You may well find that you never use "top gear"
 

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Makes very good sense to me... Thanks a lot!
But thinking at loud, if the lower gear RPM is too high, I may end up with a mechanical problem. But I am sure you have a point, I will have to fine tune the selected gear with the proper RPM to take down the supplied current while cranking up the RPM. But my point is that it will not be a tuning based on "the the highest RPM is the best" scenario because of mechanical restrictions. I will figure out all of this on my workbench.
 

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1971 MG BGT 1800cc
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So here is what I learned about motors from this site. I wanted to post a quick reference so newbs (like myself) do not have to sort through the sticky page.

When looking for a forklift motor:
Get a series wound motor because they have very high torque and handle abuse (over volting) a lot better.
Know the difference between a Spex motor and a Series wound.
When dealing with series wound forklift motors go for higher voltage. (36V may require advanced timing.)
Hp does not directly represent torque (although it does have a factor in its equation).
Get a class H insulation if possible (makes your motor last longer)
Get a motor around 150lbs (Wouldn't risk a motor that's too light, it won't have the oomph you need. a few extra pounds is A-o.k. but a significant amount of extra pounds limits your range)
Get one with a male shaft
A keyed shaft is easier to work with but you can still work with a spline shaft
Try and get the coupler that goes on to your motor when you buy it/rip it out (saves you $$ and time)
When looking for a different motor:
Ac is not the way to go for your first conversion (or do i just have low expectations of myself?)
You can tell if a motor is AC if it is a 1 phase or 3 phase motor
Pancake motors are usually not good candidates for car conversions. (Yeah you saw the one on ebay. They overheat easily)
Golfcart motors are seldom powerful enough for a conversion
Motors specifically made for EV conversions are the best but its gonna cost you.
You do have to look at many factor such as volts, amps (which gets you Hp). Torque is nice to know. Continuous Hp. So many factors!!!
If there is any more helpful hints I'll be happy to add them

thanks, that was a mouth full. i thinking seriously converting my 1971 MG BGT 1800cc. it's got great power and tuned per MG spec. I could sell the original motor and keep the tranny for the conversion. do you know where to get the adapter plate to mate the E-motor to the MGB tranny or make an aluminum for light weignt? what is the best and high effeciency lithium ion phosphate battery, the cost, number of cell per pack? i'm just tire of paying high gas price. what would be an ideal budget for this venture?
 

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thanks, that was a mouth full. i thinking seriously converting my 1971 MG BGT 1800cc. it's got great power and tuned per MG spec. I could sell the original motor and keep the tranny for the conversion. do you know where to get the adapter plate to mate the E-motor to the MGB tranny or make an aluminum for light weignt? what is the best and high effeciency lithium ion phosphate battery, the cost, number of cell per pack? i'm just tire of paying high gas price. what would be an ideal budget for this venture?
First and most important with any conversion - what range do you need?

Range - and hence battery size required sets the rest of the needs
 
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