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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi everyone,

As a little about me; I have basic electrical knowledge, I have advanced electric drive motor knowledge, and this is my second ever mechanical project. My last project was a decade ago, and it was a wooden billy-cart (soapbox racer).

As for the project, it's a 40cc pocket rocket motorcycle that I've stripped of ICE components.

The components that I plan to use are:
- AC Danfoss NL11f electric compressor motor (from a fridge)
- ...

And that's it, other than the complete motorcycle with single sprocket.

I'm currently short on time, so I'll post pictures later, but my current conundrum is making this very simple AC motor, which already has DC input, work with my planned setup. That setup being a battery pack, and a hall effect twist grip throttle.

I hope that's clear enough. Again, I will elaborate tomorrow.

Edit: This is a picture of the original compressor that I'm using: http://hosting06.imagecross.com/image-hosting-05/9194STA73173.JPG .
This is the planned battery type, I'm hoping to use roughly 8 - 12: http://www.evworks.com.au/headway-38120-10ah-cell-lifepo4-cell-3.2v-10ah .
And this is the relay that's giving me trouble for power input. http://www.everwellparts.com/eng-pages/RefrigerationCompressorRelay/PushOnTypeRelay.jpg .

Cheers guys.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Before I get into any system construction and design. I really need to solve the issue of getting this compressor motor to do what I need.

I've included photos of the chassis, wiring and motor with connectors and relay.

Sidenote: I live in Perth, Australia, so this controller is probably the controller I'm going to go with, if I even get one, because I might just bodge it and make my own system.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm pretty sure it's a 3HP motor, and it spins at somewhere higher than 1000 rpm. So that's meant to be some ~16 newton metres of torque. But I've not been able to make it go, haha, so I can't know yet.

The plan though, is to have torque gearing, with a ratio of 2:1. With the 2 sprocket on the drive rotor, and the 1 sprocket on the wheel. Because I'd really just like it to go fast at top speed, I don't mind losing acceleration from no motion.
 

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That motor is a single phase induction motor. It has a second phase winding used for starting because single phase IMs have zero starting torque. The starting winding is then shut off once motor is started.

The controller is for BLDC and almost certainly trapezoidal wave probably requiring hall sensor feedback to commutate and needing a 3 phase motor.

I don't like to say never, but, highly unlikely that combination will ever work. And even if it did, you'd be sorely disappointed with the outcome.
 

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If you're really hell-bent on using an appliance motor, try one of these if they're available in your area:http://www.marcotteenterprises.com/infringement-reverse-engineering

They're rated at 1/3-1/2 HP (250- 350 Watts) from what I've seen. That's not very much. But, probably more than most average frig motors. You could probably sneak in a DC (battery) input. But, it would need to be > 90V ( the rectified DC voltage from 130VAC mains?) That's a lot of cells in a battery, and may not be practical.

Also, speed control could be a problem. What are the CAN codes for fast, slow, spin, and delicates?

The controller I saw, like the example, also had a large resistor in a heat sink-I'm guessing for braking. So regen might be a possibility. And, it turned the motor at 13,000 RPM! That would take a lot of reduction to be useful, even with the small diameter pocket bike tires. Maybe multiple steps.
 
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