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For Sale Wake on Charge Module Controller

5561 Views 26 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  CliffordK
Wake On Charge Module
Wake On Charge Module
Powers up VCU when connection and voltage is sensed at charge port.
Left, front - attached to DC to DC converter.
The Wake On Charge module functions to activate the VCU when the key is off and the charge port is activated by power from the electrical grid.

Located with the DC to DC converter and powertrain cooling pump, it allows the VCU to monitor and activate systems as needed during the charge cycle.

Normally, with the key off, the VCU is inactive. Plugging into the grid at the charge port sends a low voltage signal which wakes up the VCU through the EWOC.

In addition, the module activates the LED indicators at the charge port as indicated by signals from the VCU.
£70 each or best offer.


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Odd... and EXPENSIVE. It should be relatively simple inside. There are 4 or 5 pins inside which I assume are for programming, but I don't know the interface. But, it also likely has access through the CAN bus.

Here are my notes about the Wake on Charge module.

In my case (2011), the Wake on Charge module was blowing the fuse F35 in my vehicle.
@iura also suggests it could be fuse F08 on later vehicles.

The fault was due to a bad Transorb, TZ2.

I have several pictures that I took that I'll upload soon. But, you really need to just dig out the silicone on the bottom of the device, then desolder and remove that Transorb TZ2. So far it doesn't seem to need to be replaced.

Ideally one would separate the fuse for the Wake on Charge from the fuse for the ECU, and add additional circuit isolation circuitry outside of the Wake on Charge.

Anyway, there is a good chance you could resurrect your original Wake on Charge, without needing the new ones.

Since my Azure is running, I haven't gotten the diagnostic software put together yet.
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What part number did you get?

Mine is marked:
Axiomatic Wake on Charge Module
P/N: 105200+A

When I look it up, I see info for: P/N: AX130601

I wouldn't be surprised if Axiomatic discovered the fault with the Transorb early and fixed it. At least I hope so.

I suppose I could test my vehicle (or you could) to see if the Wake on Charge seems to function with the ECU unplugged. With the battery disconnected, the ECU is relatively easy to disconnect. If the WOC works independent of the ECU, then that would indicate that it doesn't require CAN bus input to work.

Double check those fuses. F35, and F08.

The Axiomatic page has a link to Technical Support. It would be worth contacting them.


If I hadn't been able to get my WOC to work, I had considered trying to make up my own.

Circuit component Product Font Electronic engineering Electronic component

Get an extra plug for the WOC, and try to wire them together. No CANBUS interface, but it should get one charging.

I think it may be a Deutsch DT plug.
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Any luck with the second Azure?

I ended up with a second Azure.
First one (running) 2011
Second one (not running) November 2011 (2012 model year).

The two are acting very different.

My first one came with the blown Wake on Charge module. No lights when I plugged in the charger. Bunch of dash lights, but primarily the Anti-Theft light (while the F35 was blown). When I unplugged the WOC, and replaced the fuse, I got a 2/3 battery full.

After I repaired the WOC, I got a green light for charging and was able to charge & drive.

Now, for the second one. I think the F35 was blown, but the WOC was OK. I am now showing 0% charge on the main battery. And, when I plug in the charger, I get a red flashing light (never saw the red light with the other van).

I am also getting a blinking wrench and blinking turtle.

My interpretation is that the WOC is OK, but I have something major wrong with the battery pack. Perhaps over-discharged.

I also have a few mystery cables including a big orange cable coming out under the dash... No, Not That One. It appears to be some kind of communication cable. Also another loose cable under the seat that looks somewhat like a 1980's style PC keyboard plug. The big ones.

I'm probably going to have to drop the pack soon. Either that, or see if I can force it to charge from dead.

It is possible that the WOC was removed from your van not because it was bad, but rather because it was GOOD, and there was something else wrong.

I haven't tried swapping the WOC modules between my two vans, but I could if you think that would help your diagnostics.

I think both of mine are P/N: 105200+A.
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Hello everyone
May I ask Clifford, do you have a red triangle on the dashboard?
I have a red triangle (solid)
Blinking wrench & turtle
Red Battery
Yellow tire. I thought it was blinking, but went to solid.
Red light blinks at the charge port when plugged in.
I thought the battery gauge was pegged, but, in fact, it moves slightly from below zero to exactly zero.
Radio works.

The lock icon is related to the F35 (in my vehicles), or one can get it by unplugging the ECU. Nonetheless, that is now off.

I still have to try to get my diagnostic software up and running shortly.

I'm trying to figure out a safe place to plug directly into the main battery. I see two battery disconnect ports, and a main junction box underneath.
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I've been using my first van with the repaired wake on charge module (noted in my F35 thread). The second one is still waiting. I'm pretty sure it is suffering from a low battery.

I have a small MaxJax on order, and will try to safely drop the battery pack in the near future.

Any luck on your end?
Post 20 in this thread, @okashira found some cylindrical batteries on AliExpress. I haven't gotten that deep into my van yet to verify what the pack actually looks like, but is that it? Still, a full pack would be expensive.

I'm trying to figure out whether it would be worthwhile to build a custom pack instead. If 28 kWh gets me about 80 miles. Then one around 50 kWh or 60kWh should get me to about 150 miles which would be nice.
I'm not sure the BMS would like half the battery to be disconnected. Perhaps one could make a fake battery pack using just enough 18650 batteries to make the car think the BMS was working properly. But, assuming you got the voltage correct, you would still have to deal with the power draw from half a pack.

It looks to me like the under vehicle battery box could be extended forward an extra 2 feet or so. The space behind the axle would be more complicated to use. The van flipped the anti sway bar from the stock configuration, and a few other changes.

I have thought about building a battery box down each side of the inside of the van, like fender covers. I'd need to get an actual pack to see where I could cram the modules. Obviously the side doors would reduce the usable space.

My use so far is just as a personal utility vehicle.
You can purchase new Wake on Charge modules from the company that made them. They're kid of expensive.

I believe that @iura had purchased one and it ended up being problematic.
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