For Sale Wake on Charge Module Controller

Odd... and EXPENSIVE. It should be relatively simple inside. There are 4 or 5 pins inside which I assume are for programming, but I don't know the interface. But, it also likely has access through the CAN bus.

Here are my notes about the Wake on Charge module.


In my case (2011), the Wake on Charge module was blowing the fuse F35 in my vehicle.
@iura also suggests it could be fuse F08 on later vehicles.

The fault was due to a bad Transorb, TZ2.

I have several pictures that I took that I'll upload soon. But, you really need to just dig out the silicone on the bottom of the device, then desolder and remove that Transorb TZ2. So far it doesn't seem to need to be replaced.

Ideally one would separate the fuse for the Wake on Charge from the fuse for the ECU, and add additional circuit isolation circuitry outside of the Wake on Charge.

Anyway, there is a good chance you could resurrect your original Wake on Charge, without needing the new ones.

Since my Azure is running, I haven't gotten the diagnostic software put together yet.

What part number did you get?

Mine is marked:
Axiomatic Wake on Charge Module
P/N: 105200+A

When I look it up, I see info for: P/N: AX130601

I wouldn't be surprised if Axiomatic discovered the fault with the Transorb early and fixed it. At least I hope so.

I suppose I could test my vehicle (or you could) to see if the Wake on Charge seems to function with the ECU unplugged. With the battery disconnected, the ECU is relatively easy to disconnect. If the WOC works independent of the ECU, then that would indicate that it doesn't require CAN bus input to work.

Double check those fuses. F35, and F08.

The Axiomatic page has a link to Technical Support. It would be worth contacting them.

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If I hadn't been able to get my WOC to work, I had considered trying to make up my own.




Get an extra plug for the WOC, and try to wire them together. No CANBUS interface, but it should get one charging.

I think it may be a Deutsch DT plug.

@Danny71,
Any luck with the second Azure?

I ended up with a second Azure.
First one (running) 2011
Second one (not running) November 2011 (2012 model year).

The two are acting very different.

My first one came with the blown Wake on Charge module. No lights when I plugged in the charger. Bunch of dash lights, but primarily the Anti-Theft light (while the F35 was blown). When I unplugged the WOC, and replaced the fuse, I got a 2/3 battery full.

After I repaired the WOC, I got a green light for charging and was able to charge & drive.

Now, for the second one. I think the F35 was blown, but the WOC was OK. I am now showing 0% charge on the main battery. And, when I plug in the charger, I get a red flashing light (never saw the red light with the other van).

I am also getting a blinking wrench and blinking turtle.

My interpretation is that the WOC is OK, but I have something major wrong with the battery pack. Perhaps over-discharged.

I also have a few mystery cables including a big orange cable coming out under the dash... No, Not That One. It appears to be some kind of communication cable. Also another loose cable under the seat that looks somewhat like a 1980's style PC keyboard plug. The big ones.

I'm probably going to have to drop the pack soon. Either that, or see if I can force it to charge from dead.

It is possible that the WOC was removed from your van not because it was bad, but rather because it was GOOD, and there was something else wrong.

I haven't tried swapping the WOC modules between my two vans, but I could if you think that would help your diagnostics.

I think both of mine are P/N: 105200+A.

iura said:

Hello everyone
May I ask Clifford, do you have a red triangle on the dashboard?

Click to expand...

I have a red triangle (solid)
Blinking wrench & turtle
Red Battery
Yellow tire. I thought it was blinking, but went to solid.
Red light blinks at the charge port when plugged in.
I thought the battery gauge was pegged, but, in fact, it moves slightly from below zero to exactly zero.
Radio works.

The lock icon is related to the F35 (in my vehicles), or one can get it by unplugging the ECU. Nonetheless, that is now off.

I still have to try to get my diagnostic software up and running shortly.

I'm trying to figure out a safe place to plug directly into the main battery. I see two battery disconnect ports, and a main junction box underneath.