[CliffordK]

Post 20 in this thread, @okashira found some cylindrical batteries on AliExpress. I haven't gotten that deep into my van yet to verify what the pack actually looks like, but is that it? Still, a full pack would be expensive.

2012 Azure Transit Connect P0B3F-F1 Hybrid Battery...

Hi guys I have a 2012 AZD transit connect with only 82 miles on the clock. When I got it, it did not run or charge, and I found two cells at 0v. I replaced one of the cells, and the other cell charged up and holds a charge fine. Btw, I made the replacement cell out of 21 18650 cells in...

www.diyelectriccar.com

I'm trying to figure out whether it would be worthwhile to build a custom pack instead. If 28 kWh gets me about 80 miles. Then one around 50 kWh or 60kWh should get me to about 150 miles which would be nice.

 

[iura]

Yes, this is our battery size. But even half the battery is quite expensive.
I also thought about a custom battery, but it is a too hard work, to assemble a large battery capacity, there is not enough space in the box, and if you make a new box, there is no more space under the car.
One way is a put a custom battery in the trunk.
Maybe there are some ideas?
By the way, does anyone know: can we drive the car, if we disconnect half of battery?
Sorry for offtopic.

 

[CliffordK]

I'm not sure the BMS would like half the battery to be disconnected. Perhaps one could make a fake battery pack using just enough 18650 batteries to make the car think the BMS was working properly. But, assuming you got the voltage correct, you would still have to deal with the power draw from half a pack.

It looks to me like the under vehicle battery box could be extended forward an extra 2 feet or so. The space behind the axle would be more complicated to use. The van flipped the anti sway bar from the stock configuration, and a few other changes.

I have thought about building a battery box down each side of the inside of the van, like fender covers. I'd need to get an actual pack to see where I could cram the modules. Obviously the side doors would reduce the usable space.

My use so far is just as a personal utility vehicle.

 

[Wayner]

@Danny71, Any luck with the second Azure? I ended up with a second Azure. First one (running) 2011 Second one (not running) November 2011 (2012 model year). The two are acting very different. My first one came with the blown Wake on Charge module. No lights when I plugged in the charger. Bunch of dash lights, but primarily the Anti-Theft light (while the F35 was blown). When I unplugged the WOC, and replaced the fuse, I got a 2/3 battery full. After I repaired the WOC, I got a green light for charging and was able to charge & drive. Now, for the second one. I think the F35 was blown, but the WOC was OK. I am now showing 0% charge on the main battery. And, when I plug in the charger, I get a red flashing light (never saw the red light with the other van). I am also getting a blinking wrench and blinking turtle. My interpretation is that the WOC is OK, but I have something major wrong with the battery pack. Perhaps over-discharged. I also have a few mystery cables including a big orange cable coming out under the dash... No, Not That One. It appears to be some kind of communication cable. Also another loose cable under the seat that looks somewhat like a 1980's style PC keyboard plug. The big ones. I'm probably going to have to drop the pack soon. Either that, or see if I can force it to charge from dead. It is possible that the WOC was removed from your van not because it was bad, but rather because it was GOOD, and there was something else wrong. I haven't tried swapping the WOC modules between my two vans, but I could if you think that would help your diagnostics. I think both of mine are P/N: 105200+A.

Just a thought, drop the plate off the bottom of the high voltage box under the van, it’s under the plastic cover. Your see 5 fuses, remove 1 fuse at a time and put the cover back on and see if you get it charging. Try the cab heater fuse 1st as these are common to malfunctioning and removing the fuse will sometimes be the anwser

 

[Wayner]

@Danny71,
Any luck with the second Azure?

I ended up with a second Azure.
First one (running) 2011
Second one (not running) November 2011 (2012 model year).

The two are acting very different.

My first one came with the blown Wake on Charge module. No lights when I plugged in the charger. Bunch of dash lights, but primarily the Anti-Theft light (while the F35 was blown). When I unplugged the WOC, and replaced the fuse, I got a 2/3 battery full.

After I repaired the WOC, I got a green light for charging and was able to charge & drive.

Now, for the second one. I think the F35 was blown, but the WOC was OK. I am now showing 0% charge on the main battery. And, when I plug in the charger, I get a red flashing light (never saw the red light with the other van).

I am also getting a blinking wrench and blinking turtle.

My interpretation is that the WOC is OK, but I have something major wrong with the battery pack. Perhaps over-discharged.

I also have a few mystery cables including a big orange cable coming out under the dash... No, Not That One. It appears to be some kind of communication cable. Also another loose cable under the seat that looks somewhat like a 1980's style PC keyboard plug. The big ones.

I'm probably going to have to drop the pack soon. Either that, or see if I can force it to charge from dead.

It is possible that the WOC was removed from your van not because it was bad, but rather because it was GOOD, and there was something else wrong.

I haven't tried swapping the WOC modules between my two vans, but I could if you think that would help your diagnostics.

I think both of mine are P/N: 105200+A.

Something to try before you drop the batteries. Under the van there’s a -plastic cover over the high voltage box. Inside that box is 5 fuses, remove a fuse 1 at a time and replace the cover and see if you get any luck charging. I say this as the cab heaters are prone to malfunction and I had staring and charging problems with mine and it turned out to be the cab heater.

 

[Wayner]

Wake On Charge Module
Wake On Charge Module
Function
Powers up VCU when connection and voltage is sensed at charge port.
Location
Left, front - attached to DC to DC converter.
The Wake On Charge module functions to activate the VCU when the key is off and the charge port is activated by power from the electrical grid.

Located with the DC to DC converter and powertrain cooling pump, it allows the VCU to monitor and activate systems as needed during the charge cycle.

Normally, with the key off, the VCU is inactive. Plugging into the grid at the charge port sends a low voltage signal which wakes up the VCU through the EWOC.

In addition, the module activates the LED indicators at the charge port as indicated by signals from the VCU.
£70 each or best offer.

DO YOU HAVE ANYMORE OF THESE AVAILABLE

 

[CliffordK]

You can purchase new Wake on Charge modules from the company that made them. They're kid of expensive.

I believe that @iura had purchased one and it ended up being problematic.