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Thanks! Now on to other things....vacuum pump/brakes, transmission oil, heater/defroster, dash/instruments, paktrakr, clutch....so much more to do!
looks like you are on the right track w/ vacuum pump. My only tip there is that if you don't mount it horizontal with the feet 'down', the stock screws are too small to stand up to suspended weight plus vibration for long, and they WILL shear. So if going in any other orientation, use clamps or straps of some sort.

tranny oil.... 'royal purple' is good stuff, and available at lots of auto stores.

heater... easy to slip a ceramic into the duct work in most cases. But, if you've got the dash all apart anyway, you might want to slip it into the stock heater-core. I have a whole section on my install into the duct on my website...

instruments I don't have too much to say about except I think just a EvDisplay and a speedo is all you really need. ;)

what's wrong with your clutch?
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Dtbaker, thanks for the tips! I'll definitely look at my vacuum pump mounting, and I'll look into royal purple and read your heater info. I do have the dash out, so I do plan on putting in the stock heater core, assuming I can figure it all out again...this project has been slow, so it's been a long time since I took it all apart.

As for the clutch, well...I'm hoping it just needs to be bled. For awhile we had issues with the flywheel not being into the shaft far enough, which was part of it...that's a long story involving electro auto, turbo and non-turbo models, mayhem, tears and confusion. But, I ultimately got the right parts and basically scooted the adapter about 1/4" forward on the shaft and that should all be fine now. The bell housing, however, seems to be sitting very slightly lower than the stock configuration which is stressing the slave cylinder tubing and I'm worried may be leaking out all the fluid. Anyway, I need to take some time to try and loosen that and bleed it so the clutch pedal works again. Hopefully. I really don't want to have to take the motor out at this point.... :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Okay, I got a lot done there. Manual transmission oil changed, ordered some shifter parts...looking good.

Right now I am working on the heater and need some pointers. I bought two 1500 watt ceramic heaters, stripped the elements and modified the existing casing to the heater core, one on each opening. My question is, how do I wire this crazy thing? I've got a picture here, but basically I'm working with five connectors:

From left to right in the picture

1. Red wire jumped to wire 5
2. White wire jumped to wire 4
3. Black wire
4. White wire with white wire and red wire leads
5. Red wire

I have no idea how to wire this up for dc pack voltage. I have my relay for 12v to activate pack voltage, but I'm not sure where to connect the pack voltage to on the element. How do I translate this into a positive and negative terminal? Also, any recommendations on a fuse rating? Thanks all!
 

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check out the section on my website on heaters... I have some close-up pix in the Gallery I think of the heater element wires. I would also be careful with the fusing; even with just one core it pulls 30-40 amps for a second until it warms up. I would strongly consider switching to allow switching your cores on separately, or at least sequentially!
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Alright! Heater core ready to go. Installation may be another issue but...time to break out all the old dash parts! Anyway onto other problems.

I did something...stupid. I needed to charge my 12v accessory battery, which I plan to run off the DC/DC converter to keep it topped off (using the battery to keep the voltage steady). Problem is...I left my little trickle charger on the battery too long. Like for a couple days. I thought I had taken it off but was wrong.

Now the battery is only showing like 4.5v. Is there any hope for that little guy? What about when run off the dc/dc converter? I really don't want to buy another one, those things are expensive and I'm over budget as-is. If not then I'll do what I gotta do but...battery geniuses, what say you?
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Well the accessory battery was dead and had to be replaced, but I got that taken care of.

Now I have installed the heater core and the rest of the vent systems, and roughed in the dashboard. All the instruments on my custom instrument panel are hooked up and appear to be working.

What remains is getting all the normal instrumentation to work. I plugged everything in and hooked up some grounding wires, but it looks like I have a short somewhere in my main battery leads. It doesn't appear to be linked to any of the parts I've added thank goodness, but nontheless this is a serious problem.

If I can't get this to work, then no headlights, radio, fans, etc. That's no good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Just wanted to update:

The heaters are plugged in and set up, and the car is basically done! All that is left is some finishing work. Off the top of my head I need to:

1. Finish installing the dash
2. Install the Stereo (non-critical)
3. Install the BMS (PakTrakr)
4. Clean up the wiring
5. Install the under-panning
6. Bolt in the seats and steering wheel
7. Finishing work on the interior - mostly carpeting the rear battery compartment (non-critical)
8. Drive that sucker!
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Your blog page sucks. You really need to update it or go to google and use there blog and just redo your blog for everyone. No photos and links to other pages don't work.

Whats up with that blog site?
HAHA, I know, right?!?! My hosting company moved everything to another server and BROKE ALL MY WEBPAGES!!! They apparently didn't back anything up and I just have not had the time to fix the blog site (other sites were critical to things like actually making money). Just haven't had the energy to rebuild that sucker, which is what I'm going to have to do. Sorry about that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Okay, it has been awhile. Here is what's happening:

The car is mostly done. It runs and drives. The brakes are a little weak, any thoughts on the booster, or any special tricks would be appreciated. What has happened, is it had to go in for transmission repairs. Those repairs are done, but the accessory battery has died. This is like the third time. It seems that all the stuff I have plugged into the battery to charge it (DC/DC converter, trickle charger, etc) is draining the battery when it is not charging the battery. Any advice on this? The battery seems to drain in a day or two, and I don't want it constantly plugged in. What if I have to leave it unplugged for several hours or a day? It might not start up again.
 

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or..... reconfigure so the dc-dc is always 'on' powered from main pack. aux battery is in parallel just to soak up sudden big-amp startup sag such as vacuum pump coming on. There will still be steady draw from stuff on standby, but main pack should have MANY days of capacity to support the parasitic loads.

...last I checked I think my car 'lost' about 1kWhr over 5 days just sitting from various small loads. If I were going away for more than a week I would disconnect aux, and flip main circuit breaker.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
or..... reconfigure so the dc-dc is always 'on' powered from main pack. aux battery is in parallel just to soak up sudden big-amp startup sag such as vacuum pump coming on. There will still be steady draw from stuff on standby, but main pack should have MANY days of capacity to support the parasitic loads.

...last I checked I think my car 'lost' about 1kWhr over 5 days just sitting from various small loads. If I were going away for more than a week I would disconnect aux, and flip main circuit breaker.

I thought about that, but my car just uses FLA's and I didn't want to drain any range while sitting. I think the switch is a better solution for my case, and I think I already have one.
 

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I thought about that, but my car just uses FLA's and I didn't want to drain any range while sitting. I think the switch is a better solution for my case, and I think I already have one.

in this case, be sure you have switches on BOTH your main pack (probably a big fat circuit breaker? and another on the aux 12v battery.


I wired my dc-dc 'always on' from main pack because I didn't want the clock and radio to reset all the time, and didn't want to have to remember to switch aux 12v battery on and off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
in this case, be sure you have switches on BOTH your main pack (probably a big fat circuit breaker? and another on the aux 12v battery.


I wired my dc-dc 'always on' from main pack because I didn't want the clock and radio to reset all the time, and didn't want to have to remember to switch aux 12v battery on and off.
Yeah, I've got a big circuit breaker on the main pack. That is a good point, I'll have to look into that...
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Ok, battery switch is in. I think this will be a big help. I installed it just behind the driver's side seat (kind of a weird place, but convenient).

It drives MUCH better after the transmission repairs. I think it still needs a wheel alignment, but that's no big deal. Now on to the last two problems...

1. Tachometer. I have one, I am using this: http://www.rechargecar.com/product/warptm-speed-sensor/

With this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00029JXOI/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00

Only it doesn't seem to work. The tach will read up to 2-3k rpm, and then it drops, as though it can't read it fast enough? I have repositioned my speed sensor, so I'm sure it's not that, unless it is defective. Ideas?

2. Brakes. My brakes are not tight enough. I have bled the brakes, and that seems good. Any suggestions for the brake booster/vacuum pump? I just kind of put it together...would it be better if I sealed all the hose hookups with some kind of silicone or other adhesive?
 

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try bigger bolt heads under the sensor. There are two parts to reading with a prox sensor, 1 is pulse frequency ( RPM), 2 is pulse width. A really fat pulse is easier to sense and do things with. mine on the 3 tooth hub are 3/4" across.

Also look to shield the connecting cable if not already done. worst case is some aluminum foil wrapped entirely around and grounded on one end.

if your brake pump cycles more than once every couple of minutes, the booster needs a fix. if the pedal slowly heads to the floor, you have a leak internal somewhere. if you pump the brakes and the pedal gets stiffer, then you have an air bubble somewhere.
 
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