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Discussion Starter #1
Exterior acceleration video

0-60 Video (with gear selector in "sport" position, using both gears).

Sadly, dropbox (where I was hosting my images from) turned off the public folder, so the images in my build thread (in my sig) are mostly gone. They're also all here on my Hackaday mirror of the thread if you want to see how it went together: https://hackaday.io/project/4649/logs?sort=oldest

I took delivery of my Model 3 last month, so it's time for the BMW to find a new home. It's amazing to drive, but I think the journey of building the car was the bulk of the reward for me. I accomplished something that (as far as I know) nobody else has done.

Upon sale, I will make the schematics, source code, and PCB gerber files available to the buyer and the community. I will, however, not be providing support beyond answering questions when they arise.

The car has been my daily driver for the past 3500mi. The body is in very good shape, with a couple small dings on the sides. It has an M3 limited slip rear diff and rear subframe weld-in reinforcement, so it can handle the massive torque. Stock M3 rear springs and 330ci sport front springs. Rides very comfortably and handles great. No traction control so you have to be careful. It WILL come around on you if you put your foot in too hard around a corner.

Lots of attention to detail on this conversion.
Brake lights light up during regen.
Tach shows power (Tesla style)
Fuel gauge shows state-of-charge
J1772 Charge port with fading LEDs, color coded to state of charge.
Radiator fan runs on low while charging to keep coolant flowing.
Android head unit made for the E46. Looks stock.
And lots more small details.

18x9 D-Force wheels with 245/35/18 Michelin Pilot Super Sport tires, less than 3500mi on them.

It's registered and titled in CA as an electric car.

That said, there are still a number of items that should be taken care of before it gets called "done".

Still to be done:

  • Cover for rear battery (currently exposed in back seat area, see photo)
  • Figure out and program balancing control for Chevy Volt BMS (half the cells work, the other half still need to be decoded. Balancing currently disabled in BMS firmware)
  • waterproof the front battery box (can't be driven in the rain until this is complete. Butyl tape provided with the car, that's what I was planning on using for this task)
  • Custom gauge faces to read correctly for power (tachometer) and state of charge (fuel gauge). 0kW power is currently shown as 3000rpm
  • Program temperature gauge and fuel economy gauge to show useful information
  • Work on the the gear-change (code), it's a bit jarring at the moment.
  • Get temperature measurements working properly (resistor replacements and code)
  • Fix up the J1772 interface on the BMS (sometimes lets the EVSE disconnect randomly for some reason, probably a resistor tuning issue on the pilot line)
  • Replace the blower fan resistor (part in hand, just haven't installed it yet)
  • Finish wiring and write code to make coolant heater work (haven't needed it yet)
  • And probably a list of other small details.

As I said, it drives, does burnouts, and gets me to work and back every day without issue as it is. I'll be fairly picky about what I take for it and who I'll sell it to. The buyer will have to have some solid electrical engineering skills in case anything needs work on it, though I've done the real hard work. This car does 0-60 around 5 seconds, looks great, and never requires fuel :)

If anyone is interested and thinks they're up for taking over this project, let me know.

Asking $8k OBO. You will need to demonstrate that you have some fairly advanced knowledge of EVs (or have built one yourself). The 620V battery requires someone who knows how to be safe around high voltage.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
A few more high-level details.

28kWh Chevy Volt Batteries
Chevy Volt charger
Focus Electric DC-DC converter
Lexus GS450h transmission, inverter, and PCB to control them
BMS master board for Chevy Volt OEM BMS modules
J1772 charge port
BMW M3 rear diff (LSD)
Ford F150 brake vacuum pump
Vauxhall Astra Electrohydraulic power steering pump
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'm doing a similar conversion on a 2002 e46 325xi, which I am converting to RWD. My question is, how did you get the dashboard to play nice with the electric components? Those gauges seem to work great, how's that being run?

They gauges are all driven over CAN, except the fuel gauge. That is driven by two digital potentiometers. The CAN details for the cluster are attached.


Fuel gauge notes:
E46 (3-series 99-05):
Left side: Empty = 70 Ohms (+/- 1.2), Full = 310.2 Ohms (+/- 3.6)
Right side: Empty = 70 ohms (+/- 1.2), Full = 394.5 (+/- 4.5)
 

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