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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi all,

I have been toying with the idea of converting a '92-'95 (Gen 2) Ford Taurus SHO but have only now started looking at how much I would have to raise to get it done.

I am not that mechanically inclined, but I do have a few friends that are, one of which was a Ford Tech and has several Ford Taurus' at his home that he has repaired or brought back from the grave (tho still gas drinkers).

My plans for this conversion is a mixed bag. I want this to be good for a daily driver with some spirit in it for maybe 5 times a year, close to stock or better (220hp @ 6000 RPM and 200 lb.-ft @ 4800 RPM) NOT NECESSARY, but would be fun. I have a new job lined up and travel is going to be at most 40 miles a week at 45-50mph. Has to have A/C in the summer (Texas heat) and found that a heater in the winter would be nice after current car's hvac system died (has been fixed).

I know the car is going to be about $2k and if things happen like I think it will I can get a temp second job during the summer to make enough money for this.

I am really open for suggestions on a shopping list of parts for this build.

P.S. I should mention that if I do make this and use it for work, it will be sitting in an open lot for 8 hours a day so possible use solar panel in back window as a way to charge it (apartment dweller)
 

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Sounds like a fun project. You don't need to be terribly mechanically inclined to convert a car to electric. Gavin's vids prove that. Sorry Gavin :) You should have no problem getting the range you want. You should be able to make the car relatively quick without too much trouble. Heat is an easy option to implement. Air conditioning is something that most EVs don't have, but take a look at this thread . I don't think you'll have too much luck recharging your car from a solar cell in the back window. You'd need a solar cell that was about the size of your whole car and even then you would only get perhaps 1/2 charge with a full day of direct sun. It has been done, but it would look kinda funny on an SHO :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yea, I kinda figured it might be a long shot, but trying to convince leasing office to let me charge it from the second floor apartment I am in is worse.... and not sure how nice my work will like it either.

I will find a way, I will. I want to do this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I have been thinking about this more and went online to check on prices of the donor car.

I found that I could get the newer taurus' for nearly the same as the SHO I was thinking of using. Beside design changes to the exterior of the car to be more aerodynamic, the weight is different too.

Generation 2: 1992 to 1995
3118 lbs. Overall Length: 192.0" Height: 54.1" Width: 71.2" Wheelbase: 106" Drag Coef.:
0.33 Frontal Area (ft.^2): 22.34

Generation 3: 1996 to 1999
3326 lbs. Overall Length: 197.5" Height: 55.1" Width: 73.0" Wheelbase: 108.5" Drag Coef.: 0.30
Frontal Area (ft.^2): N/A

Generation 4: 2000 to 2007
3328 lbs. Overall Length: 197.6" Height: 55.1" Width: 73.0" Wheelbase: 108.5" Drag Coef.: 0.30
Frontal Area (ft.^2): N/A

I am trying to find more info on the 3rd and 4th gens but can't find any good sites.

My question is, should I reconsider and get a newer year model?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Sticking to original plan on the Gen 2, more aftermarket suspension, breaks, and body parts in case it breaks.

Leaning to DC motor and controller (thinking direct drive since most SHOs for sale I have found are ATX, but they did come with MTX as well), 144V main battery pack (wet or AGM), 1 charger and possible BMS (depending on batteries), keeping factory A/C on 1hp motor, thinking MES-DEA RM3 heater, vacuum pump for breaks.

Suggestions or changes welcomed
 

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Sorian,

Sounds like you're doing your homework.

What part of Texas are you in? If you're in North Texas, check out nteaa.org ...

One thing I'll add here, is that you'll never see 220 hp @ 6000 rpm or 200 ft-lbs @ 4800 rpm in an EV converted SHO... but you'll probably see 100-200 hp somewhere along the RPMs (depending on motor/controller/battery choices) and will see probably well over 200 ft-lbs of torque and a very low RPM. :D

Sounds like a fun project. If you have a friend that already knows the platform like the back of his hand, that will greatly simplify your project if you get his help.

As for how much $$$ to raise, it all depends on how fast you want to go, how quick you want to get there, and how long you want to stay there. Count on at least 5-8k for a simple economy version with limited range. You can easily spend 4-8 times that much making it super fast and/or long-ranged.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hey, thanks for the info.

I am in Baytown, east of Houston, but looked at that site and have it saved of future info thanks.

My friends might damm me to hell and back for 'destroying' the SHO but I will still bug them for help.

I have been reading a lot about EVs and like how Jerry Halstead from evconvert.com put it:

Fast, Cheap, and Good… pick two. If it’s fast and cheap it wont be good. If it’s cheap and good it won’t be fast. If it’s fast and good it wont be cheap.”

I haven't decided between fast or cheap yet, but have settled on good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
I have been looking up more info, you have to love the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration Crash Test Vehicle Database for finding info on whatever car you plan on converting.

1993 Ford Taurus SHO:

Vehicle Weight (Lbs): 3285 (with max fluids)*
GVWR: 4695*
GVWR Front: 2501 Lbs., Rear: 2225 Lbs.*
Recommended Tire size: P205/65R15*
Frontal Area (ft.^2): 22.34
Drag Coef.: 0.33
Width: 69 inches*
Length: 192 inches*
Engine Type: Front Wheel Drive, DOHC V6; 4 Valves per Cylinder 3.0L Transverse*
Transmission: Ford MTX-IV 5 speed (a version built by Mazda)
Drive Efficiency: ~0.91
Gear Ratio (1st): 3.21
Gear Ratio (2nd): 2.09
Gear Ratio (3rd): 1.37
Gear Ratio (4th): 1.02
Gear Ratio (5th): 0.75

* means data from NHTSA

Can't think of any other data I need to collect on the car, but if someone else can tell me I will go searching more.

I know anything is possible, but could I be over my head and this be too heavy?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
ok, I needed to back away for a bit to clear my head.

I just contacted one of the guys that really knows the SHO's and asked him for weight numbers for all the junk that will be pulled out to see if I can lighten it more. Already know one quick weight reduction is to swap hood, trunk, and spoiler to carbon fiber, real CF, and would cut 52 lbs. off.

I did a quick check with an EV calculator and the total weight was over 5500 lbs. which is over the GVWR.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Hey all, been a while I know. Just getting settled into my new job.

anyways, I got a reply back from my friend Rudy, he guesses the weight that will come off at ~800 lbs. for all the old ICE parts.

I really should be looking for the books just in case I am missing something.
 

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You're going to need some sort of gearbox... use a manual transmission, they work best.

Just about any motor you select is going to want to turn faster than the 600-800 RPM that your tires will turn at max speed, especially since most of an EV's time is spent well below its max speed.
 
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