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Hi again everyone I found 3 Honda Civic battery pack 144 volts in good condition I would like to know if you know how can I use this 3 pack for my project but I will start whit 1 to see if everything works correctly and I will ave to change my controller 80v 600A
... it came from 2005 civic
According to the Wikipedia article on the Civic Hybrid, this is a 6.0 Ah battery... that's 144 V * 6.0 Ah = 864 Wh (or 0.864 kWh) per pack. That's normal for non-plug-in hybrid (although low voltage compared to Toyota hybrids), but not enough energy to drive a battery-electric car more than 3 miles per pack, and it won't even briefly deliver much more than the 10 kW (13 hp) per pack needed for the Civic's hybrid system motor. Great for a go-kart or golf car... not so much for a real car. The relatively small wires connecting to the battery are a hint...

As with most non-plug-in hybrids, this is a nickel-metal hydride (NiMH) battery, consisting of 120 1.2-volt Ni-MH D-cells wired in series. The big fuse mounted on the pack is rated at 100 amps, and is to protect the wiring - the battery can't deliver that much.

Maybe one of these to start the project and make sure everything works at this voltage, and an entirely different and much larger battery to finish?
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Showbill: lots of people use batteries from wrecked EV's ex. Leaf, Volt. You can buy prismatics from online vendors. 500A would probably give very mild performance, even in a lightweight car. Manzanita Micro sells excellent controllers: the Z1K is available in a couple of different pack voltage levels and can output 1000A. It all depends on your specific goals.
Hi Frank I found this battery for kia optima hybride or Hyundai sonata hybride de 2011 à 2016. Do you think it could be good for me ?
Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #45
An
Hi Frank I found this battery for kia optima hybride or Hyundai sonata hybride de 2011 à 2016. Do you think it could be good for me ?
Thank you
And this one I found Hybride Battery from Toyota Prius 400$ can I used on of them or it is no good
Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Hi everyone I am back for answers
So I return the 80 volts controller and 600amp

I just found another controller ho can go to300A 200V 72V 96V 144V DC motor PWM speed controller high power current limit and I will need your experience to guide me whit this controller it ok for me
Thank you
 

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Showbill: I know little about the batteries you mentioned a couple of posts up in this thread. Can you post more details about this controller? Also, where do you live? There maybe someone close to you who can help advise you.
 

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Hi fFank thank you for answering my questions here is more detail about this controller
We have several type of DC motor PWM controllers!
Simple forward or reversible version. up to 300A and 200V with programmable USART and other useful functions and more...


Please check our ebay store:

>>>Click here to see our store and more type of motor controllers<<<





Very important:

Because of some missunderstandings for those customers who does not need the programing registers and the serial communication they dont have to learn and deal with the programing!
The controller is fully working without doing any programing. In the datasheet you will find information about the programing but telling you again that is not important to you if you just want to use a simple potentiometer or throttle controlling your motor. You just need to choose the controll mode with the red DIP switch 1-2 on the board. The controller's registers are optional for those users who need this function for their application.

Donwload the datasheet with this link:

www.dropbox.com/s/s4oyzcjho60zfda/HL200200%20v1.01%20full.pdf


Use this controller for any brushes motor!
Like: trolley, outboard, electric bicycle or more....


Advantages against other motor controllers:
  • True heavy load copper track can handle very high peak currents and 200A continuous current.
  • Isolated RS232/485 connection with full access of controll registers and much more usefull adjustable parameters.
  • Advanced PCB layout technique.
  • High speed 32bit Cortex processor.
  • Connection with high current M6 screws.
  • Built with ultra low resistance MOSFETs
  • 2 quadrant operation (drive CW and regenerative brake CW)
  • Low warming and capable to accept heatsink.
  • 20kHz switching frequency no switching noise
  • Duty cycle: 0-97%
  • Universal 0-5V speed controller input. You don't have to use the potentiometer to controll the speed. You can use PLC
    output or any analog signal or PWM signap from uPC or RC receiver PWM signal.
  • Regenerative braking (you can brake the motor and get back all the kinetic energy into the battery)
    For the highest safety the regenerative braking never substitutes the ordinary brake!
  • Adjustable ramp speed. 0-20sec. (acceleration limit)
  • Normal current continuous limit is adjustable between 0-200A
  • Switchable peak current ON or normal strict current limit
  • Peak current 300A for 5 seconds.
  • Adjustable regenerative current.
  • Universal supply voltage between 22-200V DC.
  • Dimensions: 220 x 135 x 50 mm
  • Note: For the maximum power you have to add extra heatsink to the aluminium block. The aluminium block is predilled with M3 holes.
  • 850g
You can choose between 6 operation modes with the red DIP switch on the PCB board:
1. Normal potentiometer mode 0-5V 0-97% output voltage
2. Magnetic hall throttle mode ( 0.5-4,5V input) or programable input voltage like 1-3V or anything you want.
3. Simple PWM signal (0-95%) from arduino or a RC receiver.
4. RC receiver PWM input 1,5ms +/-1ms
5. RS232 controll with simple commands recommended for beginner programmers for example Arduino.
6. RS485 advanced controll for precise industrial controll. With the optically isolated connection and CRC protected communication you can communicate with the device and get access for the all controll registers.
Adjustable and saveable parameters with RS232/RS485 read/write commands:
  • Motor speed
  • Current limit/regenerative current limit
  • Acceleration/deceleration limit
  • Turn ON/OFF minimum and turn ON/OFF maximum voltage levels for example turn off the unit at low battery voltage
  • Heatsink and Motherboard temperatures
  • Supply voltage
  • Potentiometer input voltage (you can use this input for an analoge measurement input if you are controlling the speed with RS232/485 commands )
  • Output current
  • Input frequency on PWM input
  • Input duty on PWM input
  • I x R compensation (this if for speed regulation compensation the load drop voltage)
  • Top output voltage / supply compensation (maximum speed limit) (this can be very usefull in more cases. As you give a maximum reference voltage (maximum RPM) what the output can be with the maximum gas setting. This value becomes a reference voltage and archive perfect supply voltage compensation. This means if your supply voltage drops of raise your motor PRM remains the same. Using the supply compensation and the I x R compensation together you can archive perfect speed regulation without any closed loop feedback and no tachogenerator is needed.
  • Status register
  • Configuration bits
  • Adjustable RS485 address controlling more controllers on one line.
  • Current calibration register
For more information and how to use the RS232/485 communication please read the datasheet with the controll registers.


Why choose this controller?


On the ebay there is many type of controller the most piece is a chinese simple and cheap controller. They are great until you put a large load to theirs output.
-That controllers don't have supply filtering what is very important! Without it the most of the chinese controller regularly burning down.
-They haven't got proper freewheele diode against the motor inductive current!
-The most of them don't have any current limit function which is very important by a motor.


This unit is a current limited speed controller for any brushed DC motor with great LOW ESR capacitor supply filtering and a syncgronous switching freewheel diodes!


How can you controll the motor speed with this controller?


With the current limit potentiometer you can very fine adjust the current what the motor can maximum consumes.
For example, you have 2000W 24V DC motor. Your motor nominal current is 83A. Than you adjust the current limit to 80A.
After them your motor and PWM driver is fully protected against the burning down and over load. Additional protection is the temperature protection. The controller measure the temperature of heatsink. If that exceed the maximum than the controller will shutting down.
You can easily control the motor speed between 0-95% with the motor speed controller potentiometer which is connected to the potentiometer terminal. Of course if you have a throttle you can use it ot if you have a special project and you want to controll the unit with your PWM signal which comes from your uPC unit you aslo can do taht.




If you have any question special request or something, please feel free to contact, we are electrical engineers there isn't problem what can't solve. We will see what can we do.

If you need more pieces please contact I can give you discount!


Warranty: 6 months

Ho i live in Sherbrooke QC Canada
 

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Discussion Starter #49
the one I was looking for is the second one picture
 

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I've only ever used "name brand" items (Curtis, Zilla, Sevcon, Rinehart), all of which have a proven track record. 200A continuous current sounds pretty low to me but it also depends on your motor (which I assume is pretty "torquey") and batteries. The big motor you have could easily take 1000A and probably much more. If it was my project, I would rather pay a bit more for something I know will work.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Hi again everyone I am looking to buy cheap battery pack what can you tell me if I can use this kia optima hybride ou Hyundai sonata hybride de 2011 à 2016.
Do you think it could be good or not or can you tell me where I can buy a pack not to expensive
Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Showbill: lots of people use batteries from wrecked EV's ex. Leaf, Volt. You can buy prismatics from online vendors. 500A would probably give very mild performance, even in a lightweight car. Manzanita Micro sells excellent controllers: the Z1K is available in a couple of different pack voltage levels and can output 1000A. It all depends on your specific goals.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
As Duncan mentioned earlier you should have one contactor in each battery wire. Typically the one in the negative lead turns on with the ignition key and the one in the positive lead is turned on after the controller is pre-charged. I have used Tyco EV200 AAANA style but there are others. They must match your battery voltage and controller current limits. You may need reversing contactors if you do not use a transmission.

Sent from my SM-T380 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Hi again everyone I need info I will used this 1253 8001 controller for starting my transformation this winter and see what I will do next summer but I really don’t know how to wired this controller to the rest of my stuff so I will put a diagram here so if someone can help me righting witch wired go where I will appreciate
Thank you
120850
D074F389-8536-4918-920A-21FBB636CE5C.png
 
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