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Having problem starting up NLG5
Hi all,
I am trying to charge a 350V Li-ion battery from enerdel with NLG512 charger.
This is my first experience charging a battery for EV, so problems expected but it's bit frustrating from the beginning.
The charger is connected to the mains 208V and the monitoring program shows
it has 301.xx volt in the charger mains.
When the main switch of the charger is closed, a solid red led is always on and does not make any voltage to the output. It seems something is wrong with the charger.
I desperately need some help here. Any suggestions and comments are welcome.
Thanks,
Kyu
[Edited]
I added a screenshot of captured message from the charger.
I am trying to charge a 350V Li-ion battery from enerdel with NLG512 charger.
This is my first experience charging a battery for EV, so problems expected but it's bit frustrating from the beginning.
The charger is connected to the mains 208V and the monitoring program shows
it has 301.xx volt in the charger mains.
When the main switch of the charger is closed, a solid red led is always on and does not make any voltage to the output. It seems something is wrong with the charger.
I desperately need some help here. Any suggestions and comments are welcome.
Thanks,
Kyu
[Edited]
I added a screenshot of captured message from the charger.
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Hi,
Yes it is from BRUSA and the manual came with the charger is just same as what is available on the manufacturer's website.
Thanks,
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What does the manual say to do about your problem? Do you have those 2 pins shorted. I don't have a manual available, but remember 2 of the signal pins needed to be shorted.
Manual just says "red led indicates Booster is not ready"
Which of the 2 pins are you talking among following pins?
No Abbr Function
1 GND Ground (power circuit negative, clamp31)
2n AUX In/Out +14 V (power circuit positive,clamp 30)
3 PON Power ON
4n FLT Output 1 “Not Ready”
5n DO2 Output 2 (programmable)
6n DO3 Output 3 (programmable)
7n DO4 Output 4 (programmable)
8 PG1 Analog Ground (of No 20 - 23)
9 CNL CAN Low
10 CNH CAN High
11 TXD RS232 Transmit (9-pin D-Sub: Pin 2)
12 RXD RS232 Receive (9-pin D-Sub: Pin 3)
13 PRO Firmware programming
14 PG2 Reserve Ground
15 PG3 RS232 Ground (9 pin D-Sub: Pin 5)
16 DI1 Digital Input 1 (AHZ discharge pulses)
17 DI2 Digital Input 2 (AHZ charge pulses)
18 DI3 Digital Input 3 (ext. condition 1)
19 DI4 Digital Input 4 (ext. condition 2)
20 TS1 Input battery temp sensor 1
21 TS2 Input battery temp sensor 2
22 TS3 Input battery temp sensor 3
23 PI Mains limiter input
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O.K. Kyu. You got me. My manual and notes are 15 miles away. And I ain't goin' up there until tomorrow
But I do remember that we had to make a jumper for 2 pins on that connector to get the darn thing to work. It is in the manual somewhere. ps....I'm not the type of guy to give you a wild a$$ guess. But thanks for posting the pinouts.
Hi major. I really appreciate your help.O.K. Kyu. You got me. My manual and notes are 15 miles away. And I ain't goin' up there until tomorrow
ps....I'm not the type of guy to give you a wild a$$ guess. But thanks for posting the pinouts.
The manual is available to download from here.
http://www.brusa.biz/assets/downloads/manuals/NLG5xx_179_ab Nr25.pdf
Now I'm looking at the pin description and suspect these pins are what you are talking.
To me, the manual is not clear and thorough about the thing.
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O.K. So I was going to look at my connector tomorrow and see which pins I had shorted. But noooooo
You had to link the manual Sooo, I think page 29/47 is what we want. See the switch between pins 2 and 3? I think this might be it. Again it talks of this pin on page 31/47 in section 6.2.3.
Short pin 3 to pin 2 and I think it should work.
O.K. So I am not sure. But what the H. Who else is telling you anything? And you think you can get anyone at Brusa to talk with you?
Hey, best of luck and let know. Well, if it blows up, nevermind.
major
Hmmm. I did make switch between that pins. I have been talking with a guy at Metric Mind which is a distributor in the US. It seems like he is not sure about what that red led means and how to resolve this issue.O.K. So I was going to look at my connector tomorrow and see which pins I had shorted. But noooooo
Sooo, I think page 29/47 is what we want. See the switch between pins 2 and 3? I think this might be it. Again it talks of this pin on page 31/47 in section 6.2.3.
Short pin 3 to pin 2 and I think it should work.
O.K. So I am not sure. But what the H. Who else is telling you anything? And you think you can get anyone at Brusa to talk with you?
Hey, best of luck and let know. Well, if it blows up, nevermind.
major
Anyway, if theres any progress I will let you guys know.
Thanks,
The screen shot you posted was from the RS232 plug of the Brusa output. It indicates there is a warning issue that is displayed further down the sheet or in the Error/Warning section. Take a look at that and see what it says. Another issue is the Bat. sens. 1,2, & 3 aren't connected. You need to derate the batteries for temperature to keep them from overheating. The Profile probably has something screwed up causing the Warning but let us know what that Warning is first. The Charger only detects what is coming in so double check your line voltage also. Although 301v sounds kinda weird I don't know were your at, Slabovia may supply that voltage.
Steve
Steve
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Hey Kyu,
In the screenshot it shows a 351.75V Actual Batt Voltage but a Limit of 0.00. Also the Batt Current Limit is 0.00. I'm guessing these limits have to be set higher than the actuals. Also the mains current limit.
Also, make sure you have the proper ground.
And, is not the maximum voltage for the NLG512 360Vdc? Is that sufficient to charge a 350V pack?
Regards,
major
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Hi Steve,
I did not have to connect these sensors. Although it would be nice, I don't think it is required.
major
Hi Major,
You are correct they aren't required and the charger works fine without them but I thought they were pretty much a "must have" to insure the batteries didn't get cooked.
On a side question I wasn't aware the NLG5 wasn't able to step back to a previous stage like the NLG4. I have a different "vehicle", a boat that uses power while on the dock that may exceed the trickle charge in the profile and shut the charger off. Do you have an opinion on this? I understand it was left out of the NLG5 because of the chance of a "loop" occurring in the program.
Steve
You are correct they aren't required and the charger works fine without them but I thought they were pretty much a "must have" to insure the batteries didn't get cooked.
On a side question I wasn't aware the NLG5 wasn't able to step back to a previous stage like the NLG4. I have a different "vehicle", a boat that uses power while on the dock that may exceed the trickle charge in the profile and shut the charger off. Do you have an opinion on this? I understand it was left out of the NLG5 because of the chance of a "loop" occurring in the program.
Steve
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Hi Steve,
Sorry, my experience has been very limited, and only with the 5. I did get a pair of them set up and working in an EV for a client a few months back. I had a geek friend do the set up for me but watched him. And one time had the red lamp on one unit. Don't know why. And after a shutdown and restart, it was fine. I kind of thought it might have been a ground or noise issue.
Anyway, these look like great chargers. Expensive and maybe fussy to get commissioned, but sweet
major
Hi HYPRDRV!The Charger only detects what is coming in so double check your line voltage also. Although 301v sounds kinda weird I don't know were your at, Slabovia may supply that voltage.
Steve
I'm in the US now and the charger is hooked up to a wall outlet rated at 208VAC (What the tag says)
I measured it with a multimeter and it says about 214VAC is coming.
It's a bit frustrating why the charger thinks it is getting different voltage.
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Hi Kyu,Hi HYPRDRV!
I'm in the US now and the charger is hooked up to a wall outlet rated at 208VAC (What the tag says)
I measured it with a multimeter and it says about 214VAC is coming.
It's a bit frustrating why the charger thinks it is getting different voltage.
Two things come to mind.
The charger may read the input voltage after it is rectified.
And these will also run on 115 VAC mains. Try it on a 115V outlet and read the input voltage.
Regards,
major
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Did you get this figured out? It'd be nice to know.It's a bit frustrating why the charger thinks it is getting different voltage.
Thanks in advance,
major
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