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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys and gals, long time mechanic and tinker sick of replacing parts in my truck so I wanted to convert to electric. Researching now as I am totally new to EV vehicles.

Truck is a 1965 chevy c10
And to do an ac motor, controller with regen braking, life po4 batteries.

I know this is a bad candidate for EV conversion but I love the look of it even if it is a flying brick.

Things I’m trying to figure out that I haven’t found in research yet.
- can I run a propane generator and charge the pack while I’m driving? I have a 6500 watt generator that I was going to convert to propane and keep in the bed of the truck just in case I can’t charge anywhere but it would be nice if I could charge on the fly and extend my range as well.

-also what’s the ideal ratio range? I will be using a transmission, and can swap the axle gears, but I haven’t really found info on what would be the ideal range for motors. Like is there a rule of thumb that you are trying to hit or do people just bolt up to a car trans and run the motor like an ICE motor?


I’m sure there will be a ton more questions as I research this and get closer to pulling the trigger. Thanks in advance and it’s nice to meet u all.
 

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life po4 batteries
LiFePO4... but "LFP" is a common short-form which is easier to type. :)

Truck is a 1965 chevy c10
...

I know this is a bad candidate for EV conversion but I love the look of it even if it is a flying brick.
It's aerodynamically bad (about as bad as they come!), but there have been others just as bad (such as an older Land Rover).

At least pickup trucks it should have decent room for battery packs (at least with a long box), but the trailing arms of those old Chevrolets will get in the way. I wouldn't want the whole battery in the fuel tank space behind the rear axle.

- can I run a propane generator and charge the pack while I’m driving? I have a 6500 watt generator that I was going to convert to propane and keep in the bed of the truck just in case I can’t charge anywhere but it would be nice if I could charge on the fly and extend my range as well.
As an emergency booster pack, that can work. To plan on this as a way of driving, you're building a very inefficient series hybrid without enough power to keep up with the rate that you are using energy from the battery. And do you want to carry that much fuel (especially propane) for a portable generator?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have no problem moving trailing arms or changing suspension types. I am very expierenced in fab and mechanics, been into off-road my whole life.

Good to know about the LFP.

Yea the propane generator would be in case of emergencies as propane in the tank won’t go bad like a tank of gas. I’m not trying to get 300 miles to a hybrid charge/ tank. More so extend a 100 mile range to 120-150 if needed. Most of my driving will be less than 30 miles round trip.

For me going to my father in laws is about 50 miles away, so round trip would be the max range I was shooting for, and in a aerodynamic brick, I would just want to have a backup.


Also when batteries get cheaper I could put a removeable pack in the bed on like a hospital gurney setup for longer trips.
 

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I have no problem moving trailing arms or changing suspension types. I am very expierenced in fab and mechanics, been into off-road my whole life.
Good :)

If you need to get those arms out the of way (because they run diagonally across the available space) you're changing suspension type... the most obvious and effective type to go to would be a four-link (plus the existing Panhard rod or similar). With any luck there is enough height available above the arms at full suspension compression and you can fit in enough battery without needing to change the design.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I was planning short radius arms with a watts link behind the axle, I can outboard them from the frame and keep the available battery space clear.
 
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