Thank you for replying.
I love your car. It sounds like a blast to drive. Do your autocross events start off the line? That's almost a different event, and hopefully my specs are quite a bit less demanding on the build. The best racing opportunity for me is SCCA SOLO II autocross. Any car will do. They encourage daily drivers and penalize stripped cars. A better car will not help a beginner, but I'm not into competing. That's the cheapest way to play other than tearing up public roads, which is part of why they started these events. My interest in using a luxury sportscar body for a cheap build is a bit of a lark. A running joke of sorts. At races and EV shows, people should look under the hood and get a laugh. The build should look appropriate to a tiny economy car. This car should win the frugal build awards, not its racing bracket. My goal is to use minimum specifications to be just faster than stock in a given car for one type of event. Wouldn't it be fun to spank the modified Corvettes with a cheap electric build? Why not use one of their over-glorified bodies to make a green car that cannot exceed 80mph? That's my thinking.
SOLO II starts with a rolling start for at least 20' that triggers the timer. This eliminates peeling out, and eliminates value of torque off the line. Peak acceleration is only needed from 20-50mph, with the ability to achieve 80mph so it can drive to the track. It need only barely get off the line, so gearing should make this range easy. Even within that narrow range, it only compete with modified cars of the same model. It must be RWD with a limited slip differential - only because that's the most fun to drive. Range for racing would be ~10 miles and 10 minutes. A 50 mile range would be enough to use it for most local driving, and that can be achieved with a bank of lead acid batteries that are removed for racing.
I've seen luxury sportscars sold for the value of the engine, or include expensive new parts with receipts. I can buy the car and sell the parts. Likewise such a car with a problem. Assume a 3200lbs/1450kg curb weight on the donor car, minus the sportscar's heavy drivetrain. Assume 200k miles/300km. It could be a Corvette or 370z, but I'd 'waste' another 300lbs and use a luxury car like a G37 (fat 370z) and have everything work. For cost, this car would stay stock. The car with no electric conversion should be nearly free in good condition, especially in my local market. Consider $3K for the finished ready donor using my free labor.
What are the minimum specifications that will meet this definition?
What's the cheapest implementation in today's market, with new and used parts?