That will work also but don't plan on turning it on and off using the OEM switch.Why is everyone determined to build something which works as poorly as possible? Use an electric heater with multiple settings to control the discharge rate. It has a fan to get rid of the heat, because heating air is what it is designed to do.
They likely will not work at all. I.E. Once an arc is struck you won't be able to shut it off.True, the switches used for AC don't last well in DC service.
Same as any of the other schemes - shut it off by whatever moderately dangerous hack was planned for some other random heating element. People use angle grinders intended for 120 V AC on DC supplies from welding trucks all the time... what I was told decades ago was that the switch dies after a while and they usually just replace it with a jumper and turn it on and off by plugging it in an unplugging it, although I'm not suggesting that...They likely will not work at all. I.E. Once an arc is struck you won't be able to shut it off.
If it's an induction motor, it won't work on DC; it will be immediately apparent if that's the case.And the fan will almost certainly not tolerate DC.
Mmm nope... most household fans, including multi-speed ones, are still AC fans. Usually with multiple windings they're switched between, or a single winding that's toggled to be partially active.If it has more than one speed it's not going to be an induction motor - it's likely a universal motor like every other small home appliance made for decades.
Can you leave a link of where he uses the water heater? I'm interested in that video too.Or depending on how fast you want to discharge the battery one or two 120v 1500watt water heating elements 8-10$ at lowes/home depot in large tank 7kWh,46Ah is about 20% if you meant down to 20% you need to use up 27.6KwH or 184Ah. There are 120v water heater element with a higher wattage I have seen them up to 3500w.
David Poz has a couple videos where he uses water heater elements.