DIY Electric Car Forums banner
1 - 4 of 11 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This is an old ford ranger that was converted by professionals in 1996.
The truck has an automatic transmission. I have come to learn that an ev with automatic transmission needs to have the motor idle, to make the transmission work. When I turn ignition on, all the accessories work. If i crank the motor starts spinning. when I stop cranking, the motor stops. I feel like I need to learn how I am supposed to start it. Just recently I tried cranking, while the shift is in park, and pressing the gas pedal. The motor starts spinning faster. I have not tried putting the shift to drive and crank, I was afraid. I am hoping there is someone out there that could help me understand. Just like an ice car, this one has a starter relay, bolted on side of the engine compartment, passenger side. One of the wires goes to the controller. I checked for voltage to that wire and it only get 12volts when I crank. I don't understand why the motor spins only if I crank, what am I missing?

you can see the truck here
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/
 

· Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
yes, my question is: why do I have a cranking option?
When I crank, a contactor in the controller engages and makes the motor go, when I stop it disengages.
The starter relay has a wire that goes to the controller, the wire only has 12 volts when I crank. I am pretty sure that is the wire that makes the contactor engage. What needs to happen for that contactor to stay engaged after cranking?

here is a photo of the relay, the red wire goes to the controller and the orange goes to the charger, not sure why.

I tried to contact the company, Pro Electric Vehicles in Penn Valley, they are not in business and I can't find anything about them, only that Craig Mc Cann was the president, but it is a very common name.

I don't know anybody that knows enough about my conversion around here, I live near San Jose. If you do, please let me know. Thanks guys.
 

Attachments

· Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Ok, Major is right, i am not sure why they did that. Maybe they did it as a safety switch to make sure there is 12 volt supply, i don't really understand this things. I am wondering if there is a problem with an other relay, that it should stick on after i crank. If i keep the ignition in crank and i accelerate, the motor goes faster but the dash display shows an error code, it is related to voltage being to high, coming from the potentiometer. So, i don't think that adding the external switch will work.

I posted a little video here, hoping it will help you understand, thank you for all you are doing to help

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zZlgMKyGnhA
 

· Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Sorry Michaels33, i forgot to answer you. I am not sure about the toggle switch, maybe the system was disigned to be started with crank, so, maybe there is a relay that should stay on, after crank, but it is not working, if i by-pass the ignition switch, the controller reads too much voltage coming from the pot box, when i accelerate, not sure why.

If i crank, the red/blue wire gets 12 volts, if i don't, it has 0 volts.
 
1 - 4 of 11 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top