[9852]

How hard do you run your Curtis 1231c? Here's why I ask.
My newest conversion has a Curtis 1231c 500 amp controller in it. Now I don't really mind the whine, but I was told that I should keep the current to under 200 amps when taking off or accelerating, I feel like that is taking off at a light to slowly so I'd like to know if any one runs the amps up past 200 when taking off at a light, and if so how does the controller perform? The last thing I want us to smoke my only controller before I can get another one.
Any advise appreciated, except for "get a better controller" because I know that all ready

 

[9852]

Ok, let me elabotate, when I converted my other two cars, the advice I was given was the try and keep the current down as much as I could for two reasons. 1st it was easier on the controller, after all low current = lower heat. Second it was better for range because keeping the amps down affords you more available power and more range. But both of those controllers? were lower voltage, a 72 volt altrax and a 96volt Kelly controller, I did build a couple of my own controllers pretty hard from time to time, but I knew what to expect from them.

I have never used a Curtis 1231c controller so I don't really know what to expect from it, hence the question how hard do you run your Curtis 1231c. I hope that clears it up, I'm just trying to see how well the cut back works, how much it can realistically handle, not the Curtis rating
Any help would be appreciated
Thanks

 

[9852]

Well I guess that's what I'm asking, us if the 1231c can deliver 500 amps with out letting out the smoke, I'll take a pic of my controller mounting, but it's on a really big heatsink and has a fan blowing air across the sink. I've pushed it up to about 225 amps and it does not feel hot, but I was just wondering how high I could go with the amps before getting the cutback or seeing smoke, from people who have used or are still using the Curtis. I'm going to by a zilla in a few weeks, then it won't really matter, but until then I want to keep the car on the road

 

[9852]

so im assuming then that 120 degrees is where the thermal cut back happens on the curtis. thats a good idea, except hell most times its 110-115 here in the summer, im not going to get to far before it gets to 120 with temps like that!

no but seriously, i should look out for around 120 degrees from the controller then, i dont think its gotten any where close to that since iv had it, so thats good info to be aware of.

 

[9852]

Well today is going to be a very hot day, I took the truck out to do a short 10 mile drive and on the way back I think I was getting a siren from the controller, it's still working just fine, does anyone know if the controller gives off an audible sound during over temperature cut back, I'm not sure that's what it was, but I know the sound it makes at low speed take off, this was a different sound.
I didn't feel any noticeable difference in the controller operation, I just took it a bit easier on the controller after that

Edit: I am sure that it was the overtemp alarm, but I firmly believe that it's because my controller is air cooled and the air blowing feels like a convection oven.

 

[9852]

Thanks, I did read that, it also gives off an alarm to let the operator know. I think it's a combination of things happening to over heat the controller for me.