So excusing where I have uploaded these, I have just shoved them in the Google Drive for my Business, not affiliated to my EV endeavours in any way, was just convenient.
I have created a spreadsheet for doing your EV Conversion, and it will tell you exactly how much it costs, and a way to calculate the break even point, and the practicality of your conversion.
So for example, I am using a donor Nissan eNV200 (Leaf) for my conversion, all values are in my local currency (AUD), however I have intentionally left out a currency symbol for ease of transfer, you can change the value to currency for your local currency if you so wish using the standard spreadsheet formatting tools.
ANY BOXES THAT I HAVE LEFT GREY, LEAVE THEM ALONE. THEY ARE FORMULA BOXES.
Anyway, here's some examples:
![122524]()
So you can see here that I have a 24kWh battery, and LeafSpy is giving it ~80% SoH, however I'm told that as it's been sitting ~30% for so long, that it's likely to be a bit off in it's calculation. So I should drain it as close to 0% and give it a full balancing recharge and I may get some SoH back. It's only done 11,000kms and that's a big hit to the SoH from that short a distance.
I'm also assuming the conversion will be ~20% LESS efficient once I shove it in the new car, so I have stuck 20% in that box, if I was going from say a Tesla to a VW Beetle, you may get more efficiency out of the motor, so you would stick a negative value in that box, like so:
![122525]()
As you can see the final box, calculated new range jumps back up as the motor is more efficient in the conversion than it was in it's original car
Moving along, we can start to crunch some numbers on daily usage, so for example a 20-80% usage of the battery, a 10-90% usage, or a 0-100% usage can all be calculated in the following boxes:
![122526]()
![122527]()
![122528]()
As you can see your usage can calculate the range based off the values that you have already shoved in to other boxes and been calculated upon.
Remember, your SoH is important, you screw that one up and the flow on can cause some serious issues with the rest of the sheet.
Finally here is your charger and it's efficiency:
![122533]()
Now I use charger loss, so I have "lost" 10% of it for my use, this means my charger is 90% efficient, but I'm a pessimist, I look at things negatively, so I went with loss instead of charger gain, so just invert your value.
So my 3kW charger only really delivers 2.7kW to the actual battery.
Now, another important one to go into is your electricity usage costs, as if you are charging your conversion ~99% of the time at home, rather than opportunistic free charging if available, you need to know these.
![122529]()
Of note, the Changeover box is really only useful like me for those that use Grid Storage rather than Battery Storage, so you can ignore the changeover value.
So you'll need to grab your power bill and find your on-peak, off-peak and feed-in tariffs from it, and if you don't use grid storage, then ignore the changeover value. It has flow ons through the sheet, so rather than giving you a bunch of #DIV-0 errors, just leave it, unless you are happy with a heap of #DIV-0 errors.
Now the next section to play with is the running costs table:
![122530]()
For this, I get paid fortnightly (Every 2 weeks) as do a lot of people I know, so we generally look at things in a pay period, or every 2 weeks. If you get paid weekly, multiply that by 2 and punch it in, if you get paid monthly, just halve your costs and punch that in.
For your registration you may have to look it up, in Australia we have all taxes and stuff included in the costs and I pay tax, I get no credits on them, so I just used the full value. I know in some countries there are Federal, State, Local and other taxes that you may have to find out in order to add these values fully.
This is not an accountants spreadsheet, and trying to make one that does every possible tax system in the world would be nigh on impossible, so you'll need to work these values out on your own.
Once you put in the 3 major boxes, ergo running costs, servicing, and registration, it will add them together and spit you out a daily running cost value for your ICE.
I understand there can be more costs here, however these are also shared by EV's such as Brake, Suspension, Tyres, etc so I do not consider them to be factors here. Plus most cars do not roll through those things yearly, rather being every 2-3 years some type of extra servicing will need to occur, and you'll still need to do suspension bushes and tyres on your EV.
I have tested the EV Registration box, entering a zero value into it does not seem to break the sheet.
Onto the next section, the cost of your conversion
![122531]()
I have allocated 24 boxes in here, this gives you an idea of some of the things that will need to be factored into the conversion, you may have more, may have less, you may have to add some things together like Ancillaries and Consumables to fit it all into the given cells. Or if your spreadsheet-fu is good, just go changing things on me.
I know I have missed some things here, mainly because I don't yet know what they are going to cost me or how I am going to solve the problem (Dash readout, wheel speed sensors, etc) so I have the room to add them.
Now, onto the final part of the sheet:
![122532]()
So here it shows me all the final values of everything, Cost of Conversion probably could have been shoved somewhere else in the page or moved, but I had it there and through my thinking, I left it there.
THE ONLY BOX YOU CAN CHANGE ON THIS PAGE IS YOUR DAILY RANGE, THAT IS HOW FAR YOU INTEND TO DRIVE THE CAR EVERY DAY
So here I see that I can now start breaking down the numbers even better.
I have to add another post under this however as I have hit the maximum number of pictures in one post.
I have created a spreadsheet for doing your EV Conversion, and it will tell you exactly how much it costs, and a way to calculate the break even point, and the practicality of your conversion.
So for example, I am using a donor Nissan eNV200 (Leaf) for my conversion, all values are in my local currency (AUD), however I have intentionally left out a currency symbol for ease of transfer, you can change the value to currency for your local currency if you so wish using the standard spreadsheet formatting tools.
ANY BOXES THAT I HAVE LEFT GREY, LEAVE THEM ALONE. THEY ARE FORMULA BOXES.
Anyway, here's some examples:
So you can see here that I have a 24kWh battery, and LeafSpy is giving it ~80% SoH, however I'm told that as it's been sitting ~30% for so long, that it's likely to be a bit off in it's calculation. So I should drain it as close to 0% and give it a full balancing recharge and I may get some SoH back. It's only done 11,000kms and that's a big hit to the SoH from that short a distance.
I'm also assuming the conversion will be ~20% LESS efficient once I shove it in the new car, so I have stuck 20% in that box, if I was going from say a Tesla to a VW Beetle, you may get more efficiency out of the motor, so you would stick a negative value in that box, like so:
As you can see the final box, calculated new range jumps back up as the motor is more efficient in the conversion than it was in it's original car
Moving along, we can start to crunch some numbers on daily usage, so for example a 20-80% usage of the battery, a 10-90% usage, or a 0-100% usage can all be calculated in the following boxes:
As you can see your usage can calculate the range based off the values that you have already shoved in to other boxes and been calculated upon.
Remember, your SoH is important, you screw that one up and the flow on can cause some serious issues with the rest of the sheet.
Finally here is your charger and it's efficiency:
Now I use charger loss, so I have "lost" 10% of it for my use, this means my charger is 90% efficient, but I'm a pessimist, I look at things negatively, so I went with loss instead of charger gain, so just invert your value.
So my 3kW charger only really delivers 2.7kW to the actual battery.
Now, another important one to go into is your electricity usage costs, as if you are charging your conversion ~99% of the time at home, rather than opportunistic free charging if available, you need to know these.
Of note, the Changeover box is really only useful like me for those that use Grid Storage rather than Battery Storage, so you can ignore the changeover value.
So you'll need to grab your power bill and find your on-peak, off-peak and feed-in tariffs from it, and if you don't use grid storage, then ignore the changeover value. It has flow ons through the sheet, so rather than giving you a bunch of #DIV-0 errors, just leave it, unless you are happy with a heap of #DIV-0 errors.
Now the next section to play with is the running costs table:
For this, I get paid fortnightly (Every 2 weeks) as do a lot of people I know, so we generally look at things in a pay period, or every 2 weeks. If you get paid weekly, multiply that by 2 and punch it in, if you get paid monthly, just halve your costs and punch that in.
For your registration you may have to look it up, in Australia we have all taxes and stuff included in the costs and I pay tax, I get no credits on them, so I just used the full value. I know in some countries there are Federal, State, Local and other taxes that you may have to find out in order to add these values fully.
This is not an accountants spreadsheet, and trying to make one that does every possible tax system in the world would be nigh on impossible, so you'll need to work these values out on your own.
Once you put in the 3 major boxes, ergo running costs, servicing, and registration, it will add them together and spit you out a daily running cost value for your ICE.
I understand there can be more costs here, however these are also shared by EV's such as Brake, Suspension, Tyres, etc so I do not consider them to be factors here. Plus most cars do not roll through those things yearly, rather being every 2-3 years some type of extra servicing will need to occur, and you'll still need to do suspension bushes and tyres on your EV.
I have tested the EV Registration box, entering a zero value into it does not seem to break the sheet.
Onto the next section, the cost of your conversion
I have allocated 24 boxes in here, this gives you an idea of some of the things that will need to be factored into the conversion, you may have more, may have less, you may have to add some things together like Ancillaries and Consumables to fit it all into the given cells. Or if your spreadsheet-fu is good, just go changing things on me.
I know I have missed some things here, mainly because I don't yet know what they are going to cost me or how I am going to solve the problem (Dash readout, wheel speed sensors, etc) so I have the room to add them.
Now, onto the final part of the sheet:
So here it shows me all the final values of everything, Cost of Conversion probably could have been shoved somewhere else in the page or moved, but I had it there and through my thinking, I left it there.
THE ONLY BOX YOU CAN CHANGE ON THIS PAGE IS YOUR DAILY RANGE, THAT IS HOW FAR YOU INTEND TO DRIVE THE CAR EVERY DAY
So here I see that I can now start breaking down the numbers even better.
I have to add another post under this however as I have hit the maximum number of pictures in one post.
